Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 1:06 PM
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Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV
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Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.
#18834 of 19336 Re: 08 Legacy seat and hood paint chip [ateixeira]
Sep 25, 2010 (5:51 pm)
I don't know. I paid 24,000 for my Impala in 1996 and paid 20,000 for my Outback sport in 2003. Can't say price is that much different. Age, yes, I'm talking about a 14 year old car verses a 7 year old car and the Impala wins hands down, in the normal wear and tear department. And the Impala was been driven a whole lot harder in it's early years, compared to the Impreza. The dealer also had to put a short block in at 32,000 miles, becauses of piston slap. The Impala has had NO major engine work and still runs strong. But, that is not what I was trying to say. I just was saying that over all, the Subaru paint and interior has not held up, in comparison to other cars I have owned. My intensions are to run the Subaru until it won't run any more. It is the best thing have ever driven in the snow, and the Impala is the worse.
#18835 of 19336 Re: Clutch hydraulics [ueyn]
Sep 26, 2010 (4:49 pm)
This is NOT an unknown problem. There is a Subaru Technical Bulletin #03-52-03R
That refers to this. Our 2001 Legacy Outback has had this problem intermittently for
years. The pedal first stuck to the floor up at Tahoe, just like Ueyn described.
It also gets worse at sea level when it is hot.
Hydraulic clutches are nothing new but Subaru is the worst I' ve experienced.
We had the clutch replaced years ago for juddering. Later I believe the
dealer replaced slave cyl because of sponginess. Last weekend I changed brake
and clutch fluid. After behaving well for about a week the sponginess has returned with a vengeance. On a hot afternoon two days ago, the pedal went to the floor and
stayed there. I pulled it up and pressed again and it stayed. Repeated multiple times. I bled again and it seemed ok until today, another hot day. Again pedal stuck to the floor.
Sept 26 2010
#18836 of 19336 Re: 08 Legacy seat and hood paint chip [snoogs51]
Sep 27, 2010 (11:37 am)
I still don't think a Cobalt (OK, Cobalt SS) would have held up any better.
#18837 of 19336 Re: 08 Legacy seat and hood paint chip [ateixeira]
Sep 27, 2010 (4:58 pm)
overall, I have been disappointed in my Subaru, paint waer, interior wear, and and motor. My son has a 1998 Cavalier (pre colbalt) that has 180,000 miles and has held up better than the Subaru. The only difference is I take better care of my cars than he does.
#18838 of 19336 Re: 08 Legacy seat and hood paint chip [snoogs51]
Sep 28, 2010 (7:25 am)
Sorry to hear that!
#18839 of 19336 CD player problem
Oct 01, 2010 (7:02 pm)
I have a little problem with the CD player in my new Outback (2011). I've only owned it for one week, but twice now the CD player has not swallowed the CD when I try to put it in. And there is no CD in the player at the time.
When I turn off the car and restart, then it works again. Its happened twice in my first week of ownership.
How many more times should I wait before I take it to the dealer. If/when it does happen again, I plan to keep the car running all the way to the dealer to prove to the mechanic that I'm not making stuff up.
#18840 of 19336 Re: CD player problem [thor14]
Oct 04, 2010 (8:37 am)
My suspicion is that it is only going to get worse, so I would take it in. You're right - with these hit and miss problems, you do need to take it in and have someone, like the service manager, see it while it is malfunctioning. If you take it to them and say, "one in a while the CD player won't take a disc," and just leave them the keys, you can bet the response will be "couldn't replicate problem."
#18841 of 19336 Re: Overheating - Catastraphic Failure
Oct 06, 2010 (6:39 pm)
On Monday the 4th at 7:15 am, I looked down at my temperature gauge and saw it pegged past red line. With my heart racing I pulled over. Found that the radiator developed a leak and almost all the coolant had leaked out. Since it was raining, I go some water from a low area in the grass and spent the next 2.5 hours limping home. The engine would overheat every five miles filling the overflow tank. When it cooled off it would suck the coolant back into the radiator.
Tomorrow, I start to take the head off. What is the easiest way to get the engine out? I took the head assembly out before, but had to work between the fender. And this time I have to do both sides.
Also, what is the best method to torque the head down? I have trouble keeping track of back 180 degress and forward 90 degrees.
Help from anyone is greatly appreciated.
#18842 of 19336 Re: Overheating - Catastraphic Failure [phil2000]
Oct 06, 2010 (6:49 pm)
Sounds like a job for our secret agent Wes in Fairbanks, Alaska.
APB for Wes! I can see the 'bat' lamp playing on the low hanging clouds in Gotham City tonight!
#18843 of 19336 Re: Overheating - Catastraphic Failure [phil2000]
Oct 06, 2010 (7:13 pm)
Ouch. Based on personal experience, I bet your heads and possibly deck are warped. The EJ series doesn't seem to handle overheating well. (What all aluminum engine does?)
I would shop around for a used longblock, especially considering your high mileage.