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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

19285 messages,  Last post on Jun 03, 2013 at 10:22 AM

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What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV


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Messages Page 1869 of 1930

#18673 of 19285 Inner CV joint/boot replacement cost? by daniell

Apr 25, 2010 (9:55 am)

I follow these Subaru posts regularly, but i don't remember others having this problem.
 
We have a 2002 Forester S, auto, just turned 80k miles. Yesterday morning while driving the car we felt a slight burning smell. No other symptoms. We kept driving the car for about 60-70 miles on the highway. When we got home, the smell was very strong and upon opening the hood a bit of smoke came out. I looked and found that the inner CV boot on the passenger side has cracked and CV grease has spilled on the exhaust (thus, the smell).
 
How much damage did we do by driving the car like this at highways speeds? I am planning to take the car to the dealership ASAP, about 5 miles away, and have it fixed. Is it safe to drive it like this? What is most likely repair that they will suggest (is it likely that the CV joint need replacement?), and how much is it going to cost, approximately?
 
Thanks, Daniel.

#18674 of 19285 Re: Inner CV joint/boot replacement cost? [daniell] by fibber2

Apr 25, 2010 (8:40 am)

Replying to: daniell (Apr 25, 2010 9:55 am)
If it is just a torn boot, and no other driveability issues (no 'clunks' on sharp turns), it may be OK to just repack with grease and put on a new rubber boot. If it got gritty in the process, it will wear quickly, and you could be looking at a replacement down the road. It really depends on how bad the split was, and what the driving conditions in this state were.
 
There is a fair amount of labor involved in either total replacement or just boot replacement. Sometimes it just pays to go for a new one for the moderate extra cost over repairing what's there. Talk to the dealer about it.

#18675 of 19285 Re: Inner CV joint/boot replacement cost? [fibber2] by daniell

Apr 26, 2010 (6:34 am)

Replying to: fibber2 (Apr 25, 2010 8:40 am)
Thank you fibber2.
 
The dealership recommended that I replace the whole thing, and I agreed, since it is labor intensive. Cost is $350 + shop supplies + tax (close to $400 total I guess).
 
Daniel

#18676 of 19285 Re: Inner CV joint/boot replacement cost? [daniell] by xwesx

Apr 26, 2010 (9:55 am)

Replying to: daniell (Apr 26, 2010 6:34 am)
That price seems reasonable. If I recall correctly, the price of the part itself was about $200 on my '96 Outback, so it looks like they are estimating about 2 hours of labor. Based on my experience replacing those buggers, that is about right....

#18677 of 19285 Re: Inner CV joint/boot replacement cost? [xwesx] by phil2000

Apr 26, 2010 (5:53 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Apr 26, 2010 9:55 am)
At 282K I had the following done: replaced driver/roadside knuckle, wheel bearing, seals, ball joint, and axel (half-shaft). Four wheel alignment performed. Complete repair totaled $694.90.
 
I attempted to do it myself but could not get the ball joint loose. Saw the dealer performed it. A lot of the labor was to fix my mistake. I already had the half-shaft.
 
I had the rear bearing and lug studs done and it ran under $500. So the price you quoted was a good deal.

#18678 of 19285 Re: Inner CV joint/boot replacement cost? [phil2000] by xwesx

Apr 26, 2010 (6:16 pm)

Replying to: phil2000 (Apr 26, 2010 5:53 pm)
Ugh. Ball joints can be a real PITA! I gave myself a significant scar on my lower left arm replacing the ball joints on my Escort last spring. Separating them, though, has become much easier since I purchased a separator fork ($12).
 
I also built a funky little tool for my '69 Chevy C20's steering knuckle (that vehicle has two ball joints on each side!) that will, with enough application of force, separate the ball joints. Once they came loose from the knuckle, I only had to use a ball joint removal/installation tool to press the unit out of the A-arm and install the new one. Compared to the $1200 estimate I received from a shop two years prior, I thought the effort involved and the ~$250 spent on tools and parts was well worth it.
 
But, I digress.

#18679 of 19285 Re: Inner CV joint/boot replacement cost? [xwesx] by phil2000

Apr 26, 2010 (6:46 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Apr 26, 2010 6:16 pm)
My problem was getting the axle housing pinch bolt(?) off which would allow me to lift the housing off the ball joint. Most dealers tell me they disconnect the housing from the strut to remove the half shaft.
 
Once I broke the bolt, I was left with the dealer doing the repair. I have to get another housing. Because they could not get the bolt out. I have to do the other side (319K original miles) it is due. And while I am at it I will replace the bearings too. Just wish I had a second car I could use while I work on it.

#18680 of 19285 Check Engine light on NEW Outback with only 270 miles!! by new_outback

May 02, 2010 (6:58 pm)

Just got a Brand New car last week. This Saturday while I was driving, Check
Engine light comes on, and several other lights came on or started blinking. Called sales at dealer since the service was closed. I was told most likely it would be caused by loose gas cap. I then added more gas and tightened the cap. After several trips, short and long, the light are still on or blinking!!
 
I got really frustrated now! What should I do except for having the car
checked at the dealer tomorrow? To file a complaint? Anything else I can do?
 
Thanks!

#18681 of 19285 Re: Check Engine light on NEW Outback with only 270 miles!! [new_outback] by phil2000

May 03, 2010 (5:52 am)

Replying to: new_outback (May 02, 2010 6:58 pm)
After the problem is fixed, it takes several cycles of engine start to reset the Check Engine Light (CEL). Other than hooking a computer or scanner up to it and resetting it. Advanced Auto will let you use their scanner (in exchange of you license) to read and reset the code and CEL.

#18682 of 19285 '05 Legacy i Overheating in stop-go traffic by lg05legacy

May 08, 2010 (3:41 pm)

I have recently been noticing that my temp. gauge is spiking in stop and go traffic if I drive for about 30 mins. or more.
 
Example: I'll be driving at ~70mph on the highway for about 30 minutes, then if I hit stop and go traffic, the temp spikes.
 
Normally, after the car warms up, the temp gauge runs at 9 o'clock or half way between cold and way too hot. Yesterday after driving consistently at 70mph for about 2 hours on the highway, I drove around town (stop and go) and noticed the temp gauge was almost into the red.
 
This is very concerning to me because I purchased my '05 Legacy as a certified used vehicle in 2009. It now has about 56000mi on it, and it is the only mode of transportation I have to get to work every day. Would anyone have any helpful information on this issue??
 
Thanks in advance!

Messages Page 1869 of 1930

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