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#18606 of 19336 Forester- AT temp light will not go away!
Mar 01, 2010 (9:12 am)
Have a 2005 Subaru Forester XS, with 2.5L engine. Purchased new. Have replaced catalytic converter, O2 sensors, power steering pump, and the usual brakes and rotors and timing belt. Approx 5 weeks ago, I was driving at about 45 mph when I noticed that engine RPM started to fluctuate 400-500 rpm, back and forth. After that, the Automatic Transmission Temp light started to flash, and the check engine light came on solid. The car has 139k on it and has has good maint. I took it to the local dealer, where it has been for the past month. They said the codes pointed to the wiring harness for the transmission.They cannot seem to figure out what is causing it, having tried a variety of wiring harness solutions. I have contacted Subaru, and they basically told me what the dealer was doing. Which I knew. At this point, they are planning to splice in ends from another harness, to see whether that works. This is the most bizarre car problem I have ever encountered. To have a dealer and manufacturer unable to repair their own product, and to further have no clue to what is actually going on is mind boggling and costly.
I have had to buy another car for my wife, but the Forester is worthless as is. If anyone has had any similar problem, or ideas on what might be done to resolve this, I would appreciate the info.
#18607 of 19336 Re: Radiator/coolant Trouble [morin2]
Mar 01, 2010 (9:24 am)
My '98 Forester had the same air bleeder. Haven't checked the new 09 model.
#18608 of 19336 Re: Radiator/coolant Trouble [ateixeira]
Mar 01, 2010 (10:55 am)
My '96 Outback had one as well and it was handy for initial fill, but I still found that without inclining it and doing the upper hose squeeze method, significant air would remain in the system.
The '09/'10 Foresters do not have the bleeders; rather, the cap is mounted atop a raised area on the radiator and serves the same purpose.
#18609 of 19336 Re: Radiator/coolant Trouble [ateixeira]
Mar 01, 2010 (11:00 am)
I am going to try running the engine without a thermostat. I want to see flow through the radiator to verify that the water pump is moving water. At least the engine will not overheat.
#18610 of 19336 Re: Radiator/coolant Trouble [phil2000]
Mar 01, 2010 (11:08 am)
For a short-term test, it should not harm your engine.
#18611 of 19336 Re: Radiator/coolant Trouble [xwesx]
Mar 01, 2010 (12:35 pm)
Agree... Older cars you could do this forever. Computer controlled cars will attempt to compensate for a while. See how it goes.
#18612 of 19336 Re: Radiator/coolant Trouble [xwesx]
Mar 01, 2010 (12:42 pm)
I spoke with a Subaru service. They told before I tried that, make sure all the air is out of the radiator. Now I thought I had accomplished that. But after review a previous reply to my post and discussions at my job, I will give it another go.
Service recommended three cycles of the cooling fans with top-offs in between. Also, they said to put a funnel assemble on the radiator.
Well I am going to get that air out everyway I know how (incline plain, squeeze hose, folk dance, etc.)
#18613 of 19336 91 Legacy surging at idle -- ONLY when outside temps are low
Mar 01, 2010 (1:45 pm)
1991 Subaru Legacy 4 cyl, 2.2L AWD, Manua,l 170,00 miles:
When the weather is below about 45 degrees outside, my Legacy won't idle smoothly or reliably. Instead, it surges between 0 RPM and about 1,300 RPM, up and down, until it stalls. The colder it is outside, the worse the problem.
When I take my foot off the accelerator while driving, if the outside temp is in the 20s or 30s (or lower), idle drops to nothing and the engine stalls.
Both of these related behaviors happen while the engine is warm and while the engine is cold, though at startup wihen the engine is cold, it actually will run smoothly for about 20 to 30 seconds before the surging begins.
I replaced all vacuum lines, cannister, mass airflow sensor, throttle position sensor, purge solenoid control valve. No change, except that I no longer get a diagnostic code indicating that the purge solenoid control valve is stuck open.
Since that is apparently NOT the problem, I'm hoping someone will recognize it. It is definitely tied to outside air temperature. On those rare wonderufl winter days here when it's 50 or 60 degrees out, the car runs perfectly smoothly, as it should, no idle issues at all. Soon as the outside temps drop, the surging at idle issue begins.
A search of the forums here turned up two possibilities:
1. Leaky intake manifold gasket. I'll check for that.
2. K&N filter -- which I'm using. Next time I'm in town, I'll pick up a paper filter and see if that solves the problem.
Any other suggestions?
#18614 of 19336 Re: 91 Legacy surging at idle -- ONLY when outside temps are low [drkwc]
Mar 01, 2010 (6:12 pm)
It sure sounds like a manifold vacuum leak, but probably from something that is not directly connected to the engine. If it were, it would probably seal up once the engine got warm. It is likely something that is staying relatively cold and leaks only when cold. Wonder if it isn't something like the vacuum brake booster.
Try looking for things like the brake booster that use manifold vacuum but are not as likely to get warm fast, or at all. Pull those lines one at a time and cap the fitting with your finger.
Long ago I saw a guy use an unlit Bernzomatic torch with the gas on just a crack as a neat leak detector. He waved it over everything and waited for a response in RPM. >POTENTIALLY VERY DANGEROUS<... yet effective.... I cannot believe I even repeated this. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME.... PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY.
#18615 of 19336 Re: Radiator/coolant Trouble [xwesx]
Mar 02, 2010 (5:41 pm)
Prayer and faith got my there.
Prayed that inclining the car and topping off the radiator after each run cycle would solve the overheating.
Drove to work and back (76 miles). Stayed within two tick marks of center on the gauge.