Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 1:06 PM
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#18435 of 19336 couple of questions....
Dec 19, 2009 (2:56 pm)
Hi everyone. 2004 Forester with 62k on it. Have some type of thick grease leaking onto my garage floor. Checked under the car and found what looks like grease around the lower control arm bushing on the passenger front. The grease cannot come from anywhere else but there, as nothing is really above it. Is this a type of fluid filled bushing?
Also, while under the car I noticed a drop of antifreeze hanging off of a steel line on the drivers side. Also the cover underneath the engine has an oily film on it. I have not noticed any oil or antifreeze on the garage floor. Did not see any oil in the antifreeze or signs of antifreeze in the oil. The coolant level was just a bit low. I put about a 1/2 pint in. I wiped the antifreeze off the line but have not had a chance to crawl under the car to see it if re appeared. I have regular service done at the dealer. With all the discussions here about head gaskets, I'm afraid I already know the answer. I have seen these signs before on Chrysler products I owned. That is why I now have a Subaru. Is Subaru taking care of this in a recall or a case by case basis? If I have to shell out a lot of money, this will be my last Subaru. I had a 93 Legacy that never gave me a days trouble. I also have Toyotas in the family, again with no problems. I love the Forester but if the head gaskets are leaking I am not going to be a happy camper.
Thanks for hearing me out and letting me vent.
#18436 of 19336 Re: Head Light [ateixeira]
Dec 19, 2009 (8:08 pm)
I usually get the Philips or Sylvania (abt $9.99 each).
Today we got 20 inches of snow here in Jersey. I am going to just drive over the snow in my driveway (no shoveling). Let the Forester do the work for me.
AWD is a wonderful thing.
#18437 of 19336 Re: Head Light [phil2000]
Dec 20, 2009 (10:03 am)
In in the DC area and we got a similar amount.
LOVE being able to get around, even when my neighbor's Audi allroad quattro can't. Not enough clearance to get by our unplowed road.
It's OK, I'm getting milk for him.
#18438 of 19336 Re: couple of questions.... [joe_in_pa]
Dec 20, 2009 (12:01 pm)
"... looks like grease around the lower control arm bushing on the passenger front... Is this a type of fluid filled bushing?..."
Some of the bushings are. The manual says the rear bushings of the transverse link are grease-filled. Maybe your bushing is, too.
"... I have regular service done at the dealer... the cover underneath the engine has an oily film on it... "
Me, too, and I ramp the front and crawl under to check after every oil change. Every time they leave oil on the sump, the filter and on the cover under the engine.
To see oil from a head gasket leak, you have to completely remove the cover and look up at the underside of the heads.
#18439 of 19336 Re: Head Light [ateixeira]
Dec 21, 2009 (8:58 pm)
Well, my Forester went 12 feet before it was stopped by the snow (24 inches). Let's see, 7 inches of ground clearance means 17 inches to push out of the way. I had another 20 feet to go.
Cleared that only to get hung up by the mound left at the end of my driveway by the snow plows.
Some more work and shortening the life of my clutch by about 20K miles and I was out. Winter tires would have been nice.
#18440 of 19336 Re: Head Light [phil2000]
Dec 22, 2009 (9:01 am)
The trick is to drive and pack down the snow while it's still accumulating. That'll pack it down as it falls.
Or shovel or snow plow. 24" of snow gets HEAVY pretty fast. I had to shovel in 3 "layers".
#18441 of 19336 Source of dirt on clutch plate??
Dec 24, 2009 (7:49 am)
Have a 2001 Outback, Manual with about 120K miles - mostly local short trips for the past couple of years. Got it used and replaced clutch (bad slippage problem) about 3 years ago. Clutch just went again (bad slippage again - after about 30K miles on it). Took it back to same mechanic who was surprised and concerned about early failure (he had put heavy duty Subaru parts in first time). When he took it apart, the clutch plate had lots of dirt on it and was gone, the release bearing was in bad shape and the Clutch release lever seal had disintegrated. So he feels that some oil or dirt got in and caused the failure, but the problem is that he can't see any source of the problem - so he's afraid that it might continue to happen again. Any ideas that I can give him about the possible source of the contamination? Thx.
#18442 of 19336 Re: Source of dirt on clutch plate?? [ffen]
Dec 25, 2009 (8:33 am)
"... the clutch plate had lots of dirt on it and was gone, the release bearing was in bad shape and the Clutch release lever seal had disintegrated. So he feels that some oil or dirt got in... Any ideas that I can give him about the possible source of the contamination?"
This mechanic is replacing your clutch for the second time, and should have his own good ideas about why.
When he replaced the first clutch, did he note its condition and why it slipped? Did he replace the release bearing and seal?
Dirt per se does not get into the clutch housing. What he is calling dirt is lining dust. Oil can get into the clutch housing from either the engine's rear main seal or the transmission's input seat. If those were the cause of the first clutch's slippage and were not replaced, that could account for the second clutch's short life.
#18443 of 19336 Re: Source of dirt on clutch plate?? [aatherton]
Dec 25, 2009 (4:04 pm)
Pay attention. from a small fleet service maintainer.
Subaru back of engine is not the norm. Normally from what we have seen, the rear main oil seal is not the cause of oil leakage. What the source of oil leakage is the oil separator plate in the PCV system. OEM units are plastic. Replacement part from Subaru is aluminin. On the other side is also a $5 o ring from Subaru which is the oil galley area as well. Replace the o ring, the oil separator plate and the rear main seal to eliminate any leakage from the back end before doing the clutch. They will cause the clutch to fail if ignored.
Now, when I replaced the oil separator plate, The OEM gasket was silicone only. I replaced with a hand made very thin paper gasket coated on both sides with a very thin coat of the black silicone. The o ring I recall as only being done with thin film of silicone used. Be sure to clean off all old silicone and grease before the final reassembly. Make sure those access screws are also well torqued in place.
WE had to use a small hand held impact screwdriver to remove these screws. Purchased it from Home Depot. They are not screws you want coming back out again either. So make very sure they are lock tite or staked or whatever it takes to keep them installed.
If you are not sure if your car has this, take the VIN to the parts department of a Subaru dealer and have them pull up the rear of the engine looking for an oil separator plate. If you have it, you have a problem if it is the old plastic one. I would still service it while down for a clutch to prevent future problems. Ditto on the rear main and o ring evn if not leaking. They will fail before the clutch wears out next time from normal use.
Unit procedure completed on, 97 Subaru Brighton wagon with 2.2L engine. 5 speed standard. Service point, 240K miles. reason for service, clutch, wheel bearings and front end work. Service date, March '09. Operation status, open road, MO area. Next major service due at 345K. Good luck on your car, hopefully this info will help you out.