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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

18389 messages,  Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 12:44 PM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV




Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.


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#18349 of 18389
Re: Fuel Filter [paisan] by phil2000
Oct 03, 2009 (5:52 am)
Reply

Replying to: paisan (Oct 03, 2009 4:47 am)

The last time I recorded that is was replaced was on the 18 February 2004 with 143,673 miles on the car. Yeah, 160,000 miles ago.
 
My radiator is leaking around the seams, after replacing it, should I replace the cap and/or the thermostat?
#18350 of 18389
Re: Fuel Filter [phil2000] by paisan
Oct 04, 2009 (9:28 am)
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Replying to: phil2000 (Oct 03, 2009 5:52 am)

Maybe the cap, T-stat should be fine if it wasn't overheating before hand.
 
-mike
#18351 of 18389
2000 OB: Boiling battery/alternator issue by machius
Oct 14, 2009 (7:25 am)
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Hi - I've got this whining noise from my engine, and I can also smell something metallic/acidic. I figure it's the alternator not working properly, possibly even overcharging the battery. I found some wet gunk on top of the battery and on one of the terminals. Looks like the battery is boiling. I think that can be quite dangerous...
 
I'll replace the alternator and possibly the battery as well. I was wondering if it would be worth getting a completely new alternator, or if a refurbished one would be just as good.
 
Any special tips as to how to go about the whole thing would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty much a klutz, but a friend of mine has changed dozens of alternators over the years, and his cars run quite smoothly. He has no experience with Subarus, though.
 
Thanks - MM
#18352 of 18389
Re: 2000 OB: Boiling battery/alternator issue [machius] by xwesx
Oct 14, 2009 (9:13 am)
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Replying to: machius (Oct 14, 2009 7:25 am)

Sounds like it is an issue with the voltage regulator which, I think, is integrated into the alternator unit. These are incredibly simple to replace; it might take twenty minutes, tops. There isn't really anything to know.... just remove the two electrical connectors, loosen the belt w/ the alternator adjustment screw, pull the two bolts, pop the old unit out and new one in, and do the reverse to finish up. Simple.
 
About replacing the battery.... for me it depends on the length/severity of the issue. If the battery was low on water the lead cores could have warped, in which case I would replace it. Also, if a lot of (acidic) fluid escaped, topping it off with water will dilute the battery's acidity and reduce its holding capacity. Okay, so you can keep it and see how it performs, or just replace it. I'm almost convincing myself just to replace it.
#18353 of 18389
Re: 2000 OB: Boiling battery/alternator issue [machius] by forester_incv
Oct 14, 2009 (9:58 am)
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Replying to: machius (Oct 14, 2009 7:25 am)

Looks like you've already received excellent advice. One comment though: Pick up a cheap voltmeter (DMM), maybe as little as $10, no more than $25 (RadioShack, Sears, etc). Put it on DC Volts and read the battery voltage (one probe to red, other to black terminal on battery). Engine off you should see 12-13 volts, engine on (normal alternator charging) maybe 13.5 to 14.5 Volts. Sounds like you'll be at 15-20 Volts, does sound like your regulator is shot and really over charging the battery. Also some chance it's just a bad battery, but the voltmeter (DVM or DMM) should sort that out.
 
PS- If your interested in modern cars at all get an OBD2 Code Reader (Amazon for about $50), for when that Check Engine Light comes on someday. Actually hadn't thought about it, seems like OBD2 should give us a voltage reading, but maybe not.
#18354 of 18389
Re: 2000 OB: Boiling battery/alternator issue by machius
Oct 14, 2009 (10:23 am)
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Replying to: forester_incv (Oct 14, 2009 9:58 am)

Thanks for the replies so far.
 
Regarding testing the system, I do have a voltmeter, so I could do these basic checks. I do not have an ammeter, though. In any case, I am a bit reluctant to turn on the engine if it's indeed the case that the alternator is over-charging the battery. How long does it take for hydrogen to accumulate so that it might explode? If I do it outside, would I have a couple of minutes to check everything out? Mind you, I drove over 30 miles with that issue, according to when I detected the smell for the first time, and I survived...
 
Thanks again - MM
#18355 of 18389
Re: 2000 OB: Boiling battery/alternator issue [machius] by xwesx
Oct 14, 2009 (10:50 am)
Reply

Replying to: machius (Oct 14, 2009 10:23 am)

You should be fine. Maybe I got lucky, but I had a voltage regulator go out on my truck (actually, it was unintentionally sabotaged by a shop that was doing some wiring on the truck), a 1969 Chevy C20, before heading out on a trip down to Oregon (from Anchorage, Alaska). When I arrived in Oregon, I did some basic maintenance like replacing/checking fluids, etc. When I popped my battery covers, there was almost no fluid in it! I replaced the regulator (not part of the alternator on that vehicle), filled the battery with automotive-battery-grade sulfuric acid, and had no problems with it for the rest of that 11,000-mile trip (I had put about 2,500 miles on at that point). When I arrived home, though, I replaced the battery. Anyway, no problem with explosions.
 
For what it's worth, that was July of 1999. I finally retired that battery this spring when it did not have enough juice to crank the truck after the winter and would not hold a charge for more than about 24 hours. It was time, though; it was time.
#18356 of 18389
Re: 2000 OB: Boiling battery/alternator issue [forester_incv] by aatherton
Oct 15, 2009 (5:18 pm)
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Replying to: forester_incv (Oct 14, 2009 9:58 am)

"... Pick up a cheap voltmeter... Put it on DC Volts and read the battery voltage.... Actually hadn't thought about it, seems like OBD2 should give us a voltage reading, but maybe not..."
The OBD2 port gives a voltage reading to the ScanGauge in my old Scion xB, so it should do the same for a Forester. It can't measure voltage with engine off, of course, so engine must be running.
#18357 of 18389
Services- any of these "dealer suggestions" worth it by rthompson9310
Oct 21, 2009 (6:18 am)
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Long time lurker although haven't been on on a while-
2003 OB with 126K miles- took my car to get oil change and rotation and also for noise on right front where I got a basketball hung up in my wheel- well- gotta love kids.
So the "inspection" listed a bunch of stuff i should get done- some things I'm iffy about so I'll run it by here:
Fuel Injector service for $75
Coolant Flush for $90 given they told that my upper and lower radiator hoses loooked "soft" and needed replacement
Brake fluid exchange for $80 as part of brake service.
These real and/or necessary or just upsale opportunities?
Thanks
 
RT
#18358 of 18389
Re: Services- any of these "dealer suggestions" worth it [rthompson9310] by saedave
Oct 21, 2009 (6:45 am)
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Replying to: rthompson9310 (Oct 21, 2009 6:18 am)

Brake fluid exchange for $80 as part of brake service This one agrees with factory ...gets rid of accumulated moisture that can corrode brake parts.
 
Injector service is a usual service dept profit maker.
 
Radiator hoses? Can't tell.

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