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Wagons Subaru Crew Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions
18396 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 9:45 PM
You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram
Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.
A couple of weeks ago we had torrential downpours here is upstate NY. On my home from work I encountered a deep puddle, maybe just below the bottom of the car door on my 2000 Outback. Some cars turned around some went through it. I figured with the high ground clearance I would have no problem I went through it ok, but then started having what transmission problems. Basically at low speeds it felt like i were popping the clutch (but the car is an automatic), it seemed like the clutch (if there is one in an automatic) was slipping and then catching both on acceleration and decelleration, once I got above 10-15mph everything seemed ok. A couple of times I put it in reverse and it did not engage at all. The symptoms slowly went away over the next few days. Any idea what happened? is this a sign of future trouble? The car has 125k on it, but the original transmission was replaced at 75k. My mechanic checked the car out and believes i may have a real problem-(. Evidently he replicated the instance when it did not engage at all-(. Since I got the car back i have not had any problem with the transmission. If the transmission is gone it is time for a new car.
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Replying to: mr_jmt (Jul 13, 2009 8:06 am) I took the car into the dealer last night and went on a test drive with the technician who was able to confirm the issue. The tech checked the A/C temp on the coldest setting and the digital thermometer read 48 deg. and then the compressor shut-off. Once the air temp reached 52 deg. the compressor turned back on. The tech said the coldest A/C setting should be below 40 deg so the next step is to hook the car up to his A/C test machine and check the system pressures. Of course his A/C machine was being serviced so I had to make another appointment. The tech figures the cycling may be caused by low freon in the system which I don't understand since the car only has 1,000 miles on it to date. What a pain.... |
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Replying to: picachu (Jul 16, 2009 8:27 am)
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Replying to: markk1 (Jul 14, 2009 11:52 am) Now, why did my 2006 Forester, auto, just 21K miles, turn its tranny fluid into nasty yellowed glob so quickly? |
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While I was driving, all of sudden AT Oil Temp light started to flash and both ABS and VDC light came on. Tech did completed testing and diagnosis, found no code in memory...even did road test for 43 miles...found nothing |
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Replying to: tim3 (Jul 13, 2009 10:10 am) One possibility and cheap to fix is that you might have gotten some fuel with water in it. Put in a can of fuel line de-icer in the tank. Won't hurt and cheap fix if water is the problem. Jim
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Replying to: w8ifi (Jul 16, 2009 7:18 pm) |
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| We have a 2007 Outback with 25,000 miles. Starting at 10,000 miles, the rear driver side weatherstripping came detached (about six inches of it where it bends in direction). Since then, we've had it fixed three times for the same problem. It was finally replaced completely two days ago, and lo and behold today we see it is coming apart again. Is this a common problem on Subarus, and if not, does anyone have suggestions as to what to do next? I'm concerned that this is going to become a problem beyond the warranty period and am exasperated with the dealership. Thanks! | |
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Hi all, I hope someone out there may have some insight into the problem I am experiencing with my 2006 Legacy SE. I recently had my compressor replaced. Since then, I have had problems with the cooling fan. Apparently, the A/C won't go on unless the cooling fan goes on. When I first start driving, this is never a problem. However, if I start going slowly (like in stop & go traffic) or idling, the A/C and the fan (not sure which comes first - like the chicken or the egg) shut off. The problem, aside from the lack of A/C, is that the cooling fan is no longer cooling the engine and my car starts to overheat. The problem solves itself once I start going faster again - the A/C (and the fan presumably) come back on and the temperature gauge returns to normal. However, if I am in slow moving traffic for more than a few minutes, I need to pull over and let the engine cool off. Any ideas what is causing this and how to solve it?
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Replying to: tim3 (Jul 13, 2009 10:10 am) - Fuel filter-- used to be a very easy-to-reach silver canister under the hood, don't know about your 2004 - Fuel injectors - buy a bottle of Chevron fuel injector cleaner, Techron is the best product on the market - Ignition: changing plugs is a relatively easy DIY job, ignition coil(s) are on top of the intake manifold, plug wires are easy to change as well. - Fuel pump -- it's in the tank and possible to change yourself, but by this point you probably want/need a mechanic to be involved. After all that's done, you've either fixed it or you've created a very short of list of what else could possibly be wrong. Evaporative systems will cause a check engine light (P0452 & P0453) but I don't think they can cause any driveability problems.. that I know of. Hope this helps, ~Colin
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