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#18192 of 19336 2006 Forester trashes tranny fluid at 20K
Jul 01, 2009 (6:02 pm)
Are there any known issues with the Subaru automatic tranny that destroy the fluid? Just did a drain on mine today (20K miles), what came out was clear but very brown/yellow, strong odor, not sure I'd say burned but it really stank. Car was never run low on fluid, but anytime I checked it the last couple years it was always brown on the stick, I never really ever saw red fluid (like Dexron red) in this car. I actually assumed that the non standard tranny fluid called for by Subaru was some new type juice and NOT red. WRONG, picked up my first quart at the dealer today, saw red juice and decided right away to do a plug drain. The tranny had started shifting a bit slushy, the fresh 3.75 qt add has fixed it for now. But why did my 20K miles Forester trash its fluid so soon? Car is driven easy, no abuse, great car overall. Thanks....
#18193 of 19336 Cover/Sheild Underneath the car
Jul 01, 2009 (7:29 pm)
Does anyone know what purpose the plastic skirt/shield/shoud/cover that is underneath the front of the engine compartment? You have to remove it to change the oil. Can I get rid of it?
Some years ago, one of the oil change shops cut a hole in it. And since then it has been falling apart.
#18194 of 19336 Re: Cover/Sheild Underneath the car [phil2000]
Jul 01, 2009 (10:10 pm)
It's probably to improve the aerodynamics and provide basic engine protection from road debris.
The optional front and back guards do a similar thing, but are made out of either steel or aluminum depending on who the supplier is.
#18195 of 19336 Re: ECU question [sangerboy]
Jul 02, 2009 (4:53 am)
Very good. Your mileage tells me none of our fleet units have reached that....yet. Top one is 240K, The 03 is currently racking 5K a month, at 215K, won't be long. So there goes the historical help in that old brain. I always say, after 200K, anything goes and this is where the pros get separated from the real pros!
Briefly back to timing, I am assuming all of the idlers and water pump have been changed at least once. If not, and still good, they need to be. That timing belt has a 105K service interval. Might want to save some money later! 1st change, belt and seals. 2nd one everything in front goes.
Second thought. I have seen the coils, aka ignitors have cracks on the intake manifold side on them in junk yard units as low as 100K. I recall taking electrical resistance readings to be iffy in determining go, no go. I recall being able to read secondary, but primary readings for some reason read infinite on an operating unit. They are driven by the ECU.
Your thinking on ECU seems sound from what I can see. Do you have a professional grade wiring diagram? Too many times in a Chilton's/Haynes have very limited or poor diagrams. Mitchell maybe at the library or All data on the web? The dirty dealer just might have a book up for sale still. If they do, and you plan to keep this car, get it! We have one on the 300K mazda 323. Has been handy a few times already. It has been worth the $50 for a few pages already!
There must be something ahead supplying power to the ECU. Many leads to sort out. I would resolve this question first before I spent any money on the ECU. Which makes a good wiring diagram a must. I have seen fuse holders get weak and intermitant in high mileage units. Connectors fail in fuse boxes. Anywhere there is a mechanical connection there is potential for failure after a lot of miles.
Good information seems to be your biggest service problem at this point.
After you re-establish power to ECU and have no spark still, you have 2 options, change the coil out with a known good unit, or try to take a signal from the ECU with a good fast oscilloscope.
keep me posted, you, I and 1 other out on Edmunds here are running these higher miles!
If all else fails, there is a guy in Zachary, LA that repairs ECU's for a living. Know of him, but have not had to use him yet and hope to keep it that way!
#18196 of 19336 Re: '93 Subaru Legacy steering vibration [girlcarbuilder]
Jul 02, 2009 (5:56 am)
Mileage clocks in at 244,705
Power steering fluid levels are okay.
Thanks for your help.
#18197 of 19336 Re: ECU question [girlcarbuilder]
Jul 02, 2009 (7:12 am)
Got it fixed, it ended up being the SBF-2 in the main fuse/relay box. That controls power from the battery to the ECU, main relay and fuel pump relay. It looked OK but on a more thorough eval proved to be faulty so it was not letting any power get through to the computer. All is good, shooting for 300K miles next. (You're exactly right, the Hayne's and Clymer manuals' electric diagrams were not very detailed, took a lot of old fashioned sleuthing to get it figured out)
#18198 of 19336 Re: ECU question [sangerboy]
Jul 02, 2009 (1:10 pm)
All is good, shooting for 300K miles next.
But something probably blew the fuse. I would certainly carry a spare. Does the fuel pump have a separate concatenated fuse in addition to the one that blew?
Are there any signs of frayed insulation on wires that are near metal?
While a fuse can fail on its own, it is quite unusual.
#18199 of 19336 Misfire [girlcarbuilder]
Jul 03, 2009 (8:48 pm)
Behind the cranksprocket is something that looks like a bicycle gear plate. What is it? Mine was showing some wear on it. The points were shinny.
Jul 04, 2009 (4:52 am)
Coffee has not set in yet.....but I recall yours being new enough to be an OBD unit. You are looking at the beginnings of the signal generation for everything from ignition spark, fuel injection, air mixture control and so on. Look right above that and you will see the crankshaft sensor that picks up the magnetism from those points to make that signal.
There is also another sensor on one or both of the camshafts. Be careful around them. They not cheap, $50 and up to priceless depending on year make and model. Priceless meaning if one can be found!
#18201 of 19336 Re: ECU question [sangerboy]
Jul 04, 2009 (5:08 am)
My compliments on your electrical tracing abilities. Getting into that fuse block requires a lot of care. Must be nice to keep that $700 in your pocket as well! I assume the SBF-2 to be some kind of terminal strip everything attaches to.
Reminds me of an old tv I worked on years ago. Hard headed back then. Learned a lot as well. Screen kept going red every so often. Had the problem down to one circuit, but could not isolate the component. Must have spent 120 hours looking for it. Finally ripped the entire circuit putting in new parts one by one. Pulled one power resistor. On the back side, there it was, a small crack in the housing causing that thing to open up when it got hot enough. These "now you see it, now you don't's" will drive any good tech nuts. But a lot of good ole sleuthing over time and a few cold ones will always crack the case. Then again, I learned to finally trash a few sets back then! It just comes to a point of no return. Guess I turned to cars at that point where you can rip out the entire assembly and let someone else deal with it! Thank you A1 Cardone!
Next tip for any one else following this post, mark your info that there is a failure possibility in that fuse panel. Will make your life easier when you see this come up!
Getting ready to drop a lot of $$$$ on a new Toyota. Guess it is time to pay up after the last one, still here at almost 24 years. Something about parts availabilty!