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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

18371 messages,  Last post on Nov 08, 2009 at 6:41 PM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV




Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.


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#18188 of 18371
Re: Object caught between Dust Shield and Rotor [kentuckyranger] by hammerhead
Jul 01, 2009 (10:33 am)
Reply

Replying to: kentuckyranger (Jun 30, 2009 8:10 pm)

Don't feel too bad... (and Steve, you can relate to this too, since it was the Villager):
 
My wife had the same thing happen, and the racket was so intense, I had the car towed to the dealer. I thought for sure it was a major drivetrain component!
Boy, was I embarrassed...
 
Cheers!
Paul
#18189 of 18371
Re: Misfire [fendertweed] by girlcarbuilder
Jul 01, 2009 (11:07 am)
Reply

Replying to: fendertweed (Jul 01, 2009 7:26 am)

Heard that! I get more amused about how some are to afraid to think out what the manufacturer is doing with their "new design." Like I told a guy years ago who hired me to work on electronic cash registers in response to his comment that digital electronics is different than working on TV's and radio's.....What, a resistor is not a resistor, a diode not a diode, a transistor not a transistor.....an on/off signal is not a high/ low signal?
 
The more things change, as the old saying goes, the more they stay the same. I have gotten pretty tired over how some manufacters go out of they way to recreate the wheel. Guess in my older years, I just want to Keep It Simple Stupid, KISS.
 
Just hope it is not the beginning of ALZ! Have enough trouble now figuring where I laid that last wrench I had in my hand! LOL Time for another cold one, it will look better then.
 
How many times have we taken a stupid code reading to find it is not what the code said it was "so to speak?" I have found the extra info useful, but I still have to think out what is going on in the basics.
 
Miss those old 70's bugs, we ran the heck out of those when I was going up.
#18190 of 18371
Re: ECU question [girlcarbuilder] by sangerboy
Jul 01, 2009 (11:56 am)
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jul 01, 2009 6:07 am)

Thank you for the response. Timing belt is intact, car has 260K so it is on it's 5th one. I enjoy working on the car so I've done all the work myself. Fuel pressure is good. There is no spark, coil checks out fine. Could be the ignitor, going to check the relay to the ECU, I find it odd that there is no power to the OBD II connector. The speedometer and tach (both controlled by the ECU) dropped instantly to 0 when the engine quit, other gauges continue to function normally. I agree everything else should be checked before replacing a part that costs 600 to $700.00. I think the ECU is incapable of displaying the CEL (back to the OBD diagnostic port having no power) please continue to share thoughts, everything is helpful to make sure I'm not skipping anything.
#18191 of 18371
Re: Object caught between Dust Shield and Rotor [kentuckyranger] by ateixeira
Jul 01, 2009 (12:23 pm)
Reply

Replying to: kentuckyranger (Jun 30, 2009 8:10 pm)

Probably a freak occurence that won't likely happen again. I'd leave it be.
 
If you wanted to file a complaint with NHTSA, use this link:
 
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
 
If they see a pattern of lots of people having the same problem, they could force a recall.
#18192 of 18371
2006 Forester trashes tranny fluid at 20K by forester_incv
Jul 01, 2009 (6:02 pm)
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Are there any known issues with the Subaru automatic tranny that destroy the fluid? Just did a drain on mine today (20K miles), what came out was clear but very brown/yellow, strong odor, not sure I'd say burned but it really stank. Car was never run low on fluid, but anytime I checked it the last couple years it was always brown on the stick, I never really ever saw red fluid (like Dexron red) in this car. I actually assumed that the non standard tranny fluid called for by Subaru was some new type juice and NOT red. WRONG, picked up my first quart at the dealer today, saw red juice and decided right away to do a plug drain. The tranny had started shifting a bit slushy, the fresh 3.75 qt add has fixed it for now. But why did my 20K miles Forester trash its fluid so soon? Car is driven easy, no abuse, great car overall. Thanks....
#18193 of 18371
Cover/Sheild Underneath the car by phil2000
Jul 01, 2009 (7:29 pm)
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jul 01, 2009 11:07 am)

Does anyone know what purpose the plastic skirt/shield/shoud/cover that is underneath the front of the engine compartment? You have to remove it to change the oil. Can I get rid of it?
 
Some years ago, one of the oil change shops cut a hole in it. And since then it has been falling apart.
#18194 of 18371
Re: Cover/Sheild Underneath the car [phil2000] by kurtamaxxxguy
Jul 01, 2009 (10:10 pm)
Reply

Replying to: phil2000 (Jul 01, 2009 7:29 pm)

It's probably to improve the aerodynamics and provide basic engine protection from road debris.
 
The optional front and back guards do a similar thing, but are made out of either steel or aluminum depending on who the supplier is.
#18195 of 18371
Re: ECU question [sangerboy] by girlcarbuilder
Jul 02, 2009 (4:53 am)
Reply

Replying to: sangerboy (Jul 01, 2009 11:56 am)

Very good. Your mileage tells me none of our fleet units have reached that....yet. Top one is 240K, The 03 is currently racking 5K a month, at 215K, won't be long. So there goes the historical help in that old brain. I always say, after 200K, anything goes and this is where the pros get separated from the real pros!
 
Briefly back to timing, I am assuming all of the idlers and water pump have been changed at least once. If not, and still good, they need to be. That timing belt has a 105K service interval. Might want to save some money later! 1st change, belt and seals. 2nd one everything in front goes.
 
Second thought. I have seen the coils, aka ignitors have cracks on the intake manifold side on them in junk yard units as low as 100K. I recall taking electrical resistance readings to be iffy in determining go, no go. I recall being able to read secondary, but primary readings for some reason read infinite on an operating unit. They are driven by the ECU.
 
Your thinking on ECU seems sound from what I can see. Do you have a professional grade wiring diagram? Too many times in a Chilton's/Haynes have very limited or poor diagrams. Mitchell maybe at the library or All data on the web? The dirty dealer just might have a book up for sale still. If they do, and you plan to keep this car, get it! We have one on the 300K mazda 323. Has been handy a few times already. It has been worth the $50 for a few pages already!
 
There must be something ahead supplying power to the ECU. Many leads to sort out. I would resolve this question first before I spent any money on the ECU. Which makes a good wiring diagram a must. I have seen fuse holders get weak and intermitant in high mileage units. Connectors fail in fuse boxes. Anywhere there is a mechanical connection there is potential for failure after a lot of miles.
 
Good information seems to be your biggest service problem at this point.
 
After you re-establish power to ECU and have no spark still, you have 2 options, change the coil out with a known good unit, or try to take a signal from the ECU with a good fast oscilloscope.
 
keep me posted, you, I and 1 other out on Edmunds here are running these higher miles!
 
 If all else fails, there is a guy in Zachary, LA that repairs ECU's for a living. Know of him, but have not had to use him yet and hope to keep it that way!
#18196 of 18371
Re: '93 Subaru Legacy steering vibration [girlcarbuilder] by hypster908
Jul 02, 2009 (5:56 am)
Reply

Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 30, 2009 10:00 am)

Mileage clocks in at 244,705
 
Power steering fluid levels are okay.
 
Thanks for your help.
#18197 of 18371
Re: ECU question [girlcarbuilder] by sangerboy
Jul 02, 2009 (7:12 am)
Reply

Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jul 02, 2009 4:53 am)

Got it fixed, it ended up being the SBF-2 in the main fuse/relay box. That controls power from the battery to the ECU, main relay and fuel pump relay. It looked OK but on a more thorough eval proved to be faulty so it was not letting any power get through to the computer. All is good, shooting for 300K miles next. (You're exactly right, the Hayne's and Clymer manuals' electric diagrams were not very detailed, took a lot of old fashioned sleuthing to get it figured out)

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