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Wagons Subaru Crew Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions
18393 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 10:04 AM
You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram
Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 17, 2009 6:17 pm) You are right about replacing parts. Some item when they fail take other things with them and it can be costly. I need to replace boots and the like over the next year before they fail. I am on my second clutch/transmission (original could not go into reverse or stay in 5th - 180,000 mi. I had a inner CV boot fail on the roadside. Went to put in a half shaft by taking out the pinch bolt for the ball joint. It broke right off. A dealer suggested that method. But the one that I normally work with said that was the wrong path. They detach the strut and do a wheel alignment afterwards. I had to get a junk knuckle. And I have not noticed any play. What is "crank gallery cover"? I am not going to steam clean. It is to problematic. Also, I am happy with the mpg. It is better than some new vehicles get off the lot. If I had a second vehicle, I could spend more time on repair and doing PM's on the Forester. I keep my cars until they are beyond my ability to repair or our family out grows them. I had a1985 Chrysler Laser the had 196,000 miles before it threw a rod and was getting 24+ mpg. I overhauled that engine at 176,000. I also had a 1992 Nissan Sentra. I donated it to charity before I bought the Forester. It had 229,000 miles and no engine work getting 30+ mpg. |
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 17, 2009 4:30 pm) Sorry, I thought this would be a good place to ask a question about Subaru transmissions. I'll try one of the Tribeca forums.
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Replying to: robotb9 (Jun 18, 2009 5:40 am) Good mechanics never assume anything when it comes to cars, but we can nail something many a time talking shop with another one. |
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Replying to: phil2000 (Jun 17, 2009 8:56 pm) Yup, another way for the dealer to make money. Do an unnecessary wheel alignment. Then again, these Yankee cars are a real pain to break either end of the ball joint loose. I think it is called rust! Even me dropping the lower control arm with the entire knuckle assembly and carefully beating that ball joint out proved to not be easy. Once that was separated, I used a 20 ton press to try to press the stud out of the lower control arm. That was not a lady like day for me. Even the 20 ton press had a bad time with that thing. Touch those bolts at the top of the strut and you are right. Alignment time. Does not matter though if it needs one. Shame to hear about the Chrysler. One of the reason I left American cars. Do a repair and it still comes apart. Some of them are really Mitshibishi. That 92 Nissan I would have drove until it blew up! No telling how far it would have gone. Every mile it went was free! Charity tends to junk those high mileage cars out for $200 because they can not get much for them. They worth more than that riding down the road for us! Just like the 86 Toyota Tercel and 89 Mazda 323. Sure beats car notes! 35+ mpg is nice also. Do keep oil leakage clean up to a degree. Otherwise if you have an engine compartment fire, that oil will make it harder to put out and easier for it to catch in the first place. Curiosity, does the a/c still work. The 03 died over a year ago.
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 17, 2009 6:17 pm) "Experience has taught me the best way to handle a timing belt unit is crank, cam and belt at first belt change. 2nd belt change is fun. Everything that has to do with that belt hits the trash. Belt, seals, idlers, tensioners and water pump. Any one of these as I think you have noticed fails, and you have bought at least a valve job for a headache. No leaks aloud in that area! Use a good quality belt. In fact it never pays to use cheap parts." I'm fairly experienced w/ auto repair/maint. issues but I'm not following what you are saying you do at the first timing belt change. "crank, cam, and belt..."? What exactly are you replacing here: the crank? the cam? It's not clear to me what you're trying to say and it's very puzzling because all the rest makes perfect sense. I always change belt, seals, idlers, tensioners & WP on every TB change... what am I not understanding about your description of the first TB change?
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Replying to: girlcarbuilder (Jun 18, 2009 11:21 am) The Laser had problems just before the warranty ran out. Some day you will have to let me tell you the story. And it is long. The Sentra I was driving while I fixed the Laser and would alternate driving either one. When the Laser died, I needed a utility vehicle. Also, I got tired of having my daughter crawl out of the back of a two door. Plus, paying insurance on three cars (my 2 and my wife's 1). The charity I donated to was a church that gave the car to a parishioners. They drove it for awhile, then I heard something happen to it MVA. Is my ignition coil the square block on top of the intake manifold and with the spark wires coming out of it? Thanks
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On the drivers side of the my 2008 Tribeca is a 6" wide and 10" long clear plastic sheet. This sheet protects the bottom rear of the door from rock chips. A few months ago the car got side swiped on the passenger side. Both doors had to be replaced and the whole side repainted. Today, as I was going around with the touch-up paint to cover the rock chips. I noticed on the repaired right rear door that there wasn't any clear plastic protector. After touching up about 5 paint chips I called the dealer. They said no parts list for the clear plastic protector. They were going to check further. My question is: Do other 2008 Tribeca's have a clear plastic rock protector on the right rear door?
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Replying to: fendertweed (Jun 18, 2009 1:24 pm) I would agree with your methodology on a total city car. Then again, what works to prevent down time is what it is all about. Not to mention, different makes like to cause different headaches at times. Glad to see someone else agreeing that cutting corners on these cars is asking for big trouble.
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Replying to: robotb9 (Jun 16, 2009 2:43 pm) If the lever had only made it to the reverse sector, there probably a rapid slow down to a halt. But, in order to move the gear shift lever, you must also hold in the "shift release" button. And this may also require depressing the brake pedal. IIRC, trying to move the gear shift lever from D to R required pressing the brake pedal (Gov't requirement IIRC). In the "old days" some people tried moving the shift lever from drive to park while moving along. This usually required a transmission rebuilt. Whereas just moving from drive to reverse when driving along usually meant a rapid slowdown to a stop. Since I usually drove manual shift cars didn't worry about the above. JMH thoughts.
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Replying to: phil2000 (Jun 18, 2009 7:00 pm) Glad to have that link in case I have to change a tranny on this end. Sounds about right on warranty. I laugh when they talk 100K warranty now a days. That means look out after that! My brother has done the same with donating cars. It always amazes me how some people can not keep a car and destroy one pretty quickly after getting one. I carefully picked the one the 87 Mitz went to. Still in servcie to this day. Louisiana allows us to turn in tags and drop insurance on a vehicle for a while. But if it is a repair ordeal, I usually go ahead and pay for 3 cars during the repair. After the repair is finished, then I drop the backup back to storage. The old 87 Mitz had a lot of storage time on it. It was time to give it away, before it rotted away in storage. |
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