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Wagons Subaru Crew Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions
18373 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 7:25 AM
You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: samiam_68 (Jan 10, 2009 2:45 pm) There should be mention in the Drivers manual of a fuse you can install to disable the AWD system (in the Forester, I believe that fuse is inside the car on the fuse panel near the driver's left knee). Once that fuxe is inserted (you can get spare fuses in the fuse compartment under the hood), the vehicle reverts to FWD only and an AWD symbol, indicating AWD shutoff, should appear in the instrument console. If your shudder / fishtailing goes away when in FWD mode, that would suggest the problem is with AWD imbalance or possibly the rear differential. |
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Replying to: samiam_68 (Jan 10, 2009 2:47 pm) Bob G |
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these days anyone w/ internet access should be able to match tires easily... if you have a spare (even a donut), go to someplace like Tire Rack (tirerack.com) and have them ship you a replacement (assuming they can still get it); even if they can't get it they can tell you what tires match the diameter of your current ones. I almost always buy from tire rack and have them drop ship to my local installer. |
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Hi. New to this forum, but have been a motorhead for 50 years. I'm trying to fix a 97 Postal Legacy that gets no drive to the rear wheels. My wife used to be a rural mail carrier and bought this rather hammered Legacy from a guy on Ebay for $5000. Winter came and the car would get stuck in its own shadow. I got to know the local dealer service manager and they ran some codes and decided it was either the transfer clutch solenoid or perhaps one of the VSS's. I ripped the rear housing off the tranny and replaced the solenoid. ( I took the old solenoid apart and could find nothing wrong, BTW.) I took the transfer clutch drum off and all looked kosher, but I did not take the assembly apart. When I reassembled, it SEEMED like it was working great. About a day later it was back to its old ways and I got stuck. I just ended up driving the thing in FWD till this December, when I got under it and took off the pan. Some fine steel swarf on the magnet, but not bad for 210k miles. I pulled the filter and flushed it and found many pieces of a plastic electrical connector shell that appeared to be the connector to the part I'd fixed earlier. So, I pulled the tailhousing back off and, OOPS!, the connector had got tangled up with the parking pawl cogs. So maybe that explained why it seemed to work briefly. So, I put it all back together, glued the connector. And it still doesn't work! I put a tester on the TCM wire that controls the transfer clutch and seems to get no signal.( This with the car up on 4 stands and someone else pushing the gas pedal and applying the E-brake. It seems like this scenario would make the transfer clutch apply as the TCM should think the front wheels are spinning and the rear have traction.) What's next? VSS's? If you know of any other forums that might help me more, please let me know. Thanks, Al
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Replying to: albrase (Jan 11, 2009 9:15 am)
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Replying to: aatherton (Jan 10, 2009 5:21 pm) 07 TPMS measures pressure directy (does not use the ABS to detect differences in rotational speed like some earlier TPMS systems) as others have said, make sure there is not a huge difference in tread depth between your new tire and your old or your diff is toast |
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My husband took out my car today. He said that there was absolutely nothing wrong with my car. He's used to driving rear wheel drive, so he didn't feel everytime the car got loose in a curve. He essentially called me stupid, without saying it. (I would like to note that my husband knows exactly NOTHING about cars. And, he wouldn't believe me when 2 of his cylinders were going out of his expedition. He continued to drive it... eventually the check engine light came on and it stalled. Then, he purchased a new motor.) Unfortunately, the roads are bone dry today. I made him get out and I took it back out myself. I got up to 85 mph before it started handling funny again. The only time it really acted up was in curves and it just felt really loose. I am calling the dealership tomorrow and seeing what I need to do. I have no clue where to find a used Bridgestone Potenza with 11,000 miles on it. (They are currently measuring at 7/32nds). If I find a place around here that stocks new ones, or have a new one shipped here, then I am going to have a tread depth issue still right??? I am just going to have to buy a whole new set?
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Replying to: samiam_68 (Jan 11, 2009 9:23 am) It's not a REAL big job taking the tail housing off and accessing the transfer clutch parts. But I'm looking for electrical answers first. Al
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Replying to: albrase (Jan 11, 2009 9:40 pm) |
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Replying to: jiromo (Jan 11, 2009 4:17 pm) Unfortunately, you are probably going to have to buy a whole new set. You might be able to get the new tire shaved, but unless it has the exact same wear characteristics of the old tires, it is going to wear faster, slower, etc, and cause problems down the road. Since the tire is new at this point, it may be a good time to get three more. Frustrating, I know, but far less expensive in the long run. If damage is caused by this, it will not be covered by the warranty. Also keep in mind that faster speeds cause more strain on the system, as do dry roads. You are going to feel less stability on slick surfaces, but that is because the stress in the system is most easily vented through wheel slippage, and slick roads allow this to happen at lower stress levels than a dry, hard surface. In the meantime, keep speeds down and/or trips short. Oh, and this is definitely one of those times when you should *not* listen to your husband... no offense to him. 
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