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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

19283 messages,  Last post on May 01, 2013 at 9:15 AM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum.

What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Coupe, Sedan, Wagon, SUV


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Messages Page 1701 of 1929

#16993 of 19283 Re: 1995 Impreza...door won't open! [thscolts] by xwesx

Mar 01, 2007 (11:58 am)

Replying to: thscolts (Feb 28, 2007 7:06 pm)
Sounds like maybe door pulls disconnected from the latch mechanism, or it froze up for some reason. On that vintage of Subaru, it was required that you lift the exterior door handle to lock the door. If the handle was not attached properly, then lifting and closing would not prevent the door from unlocking.
 
I have not heard of that problem in a Subaru before, so very strange that it happened on both sides of the car (though the passenger side does still open!).
 
If it is disconnected, you should be able to get to it by taking off the cladding on the inside of the door. Of course, if you cannot open the door then that might be tricky in itself!

#16994 of 19283 Re: Outback starting problems at altitude? [fibber2] by denver5357

Mar 02, 2007 (8:28 am)

Replying to: fibber2 (Feb 27, 2007 7:38 am)
Saw that - thanks. I would have it in additional relevant threads if there were any. I'm looking for all the advice and anecdotal info I can get.

#16995 of 19283 Re: 1995 Impreza...door won't open! [xwesx] by thscolts

Mar 02, 2007 (9:41 am)

Replying to: xwesx (Mar 01, 2007 11:58 am)
Thanks for your response. The sooby is at the shop now. Neither of us has the time right now (or probably the skills) to fix the problem. Soo...hoping it doesn't cost big bucks.

#16996 of 19283 Re: '98 OBW Ltd radio antenna [toboggan] by amsbear

Mar 10, 2007 (7:27 pm)

Replying to: toboggan (Feb 26, 2007 10:04 am)
Toboggan,
 
My 98 OBW Ltd antenna finally stopped retracting also. It started just getting stuck mid-way in cold/icy weather but a little lock deicer did the trick temporarily.
 
I took it out and disassembled it and I saw that the inner plastic rod has snapped and therefore not get pulled down. However, it can be manually pushed down.
 
Still, I'd like to get a replacement but none of the online sites that I've found carry it. Let me know if you have any luck finding it.
 
Thanks,
 
Alan
98 OBW Ltd (~130,000 miles)

#16997 of 19283 96 OBW engine electric problem by rondo320

Mar 11, 2007 (7:36 pm)

Had a clicking sound just before my engine started. The shop replaced the starter relay but it didn't help. They then replaced the ignition switch which took care of the problem except that my car would not start after sitting in the airport parking lot for 3 days. I got a jump and took it back to the shop where they tested it and found no drains on the system.
After another sit in the airport parking lot, I was driving home and the battery light came on followed by a few others like the ABS and airbag lights followed by the wipers going crazy eventhough the switch was off. The entire electrical system failed and I coasted to a stop on the freeway shoulder.
I gave up on the shop and replaced the 50amp fusible link myself and seven fuses that were blown as well as the alternator which seemed to be the cause of the shutdown. I replaced the ignition coil because it was only firing the back two cylinders. That didn't help. Before I assume that the computer was fried, is there something simpler that is causing the front two cylinders not to get a spark? It's not the plugs or the wires because they checked OK. Any suggestions?

#16998 of 19283 Re: 96 OBW engine electric problem [rondo320] by paisan

Mar 11, 2007 (7:56 pm)

Replying to: rondo320 (Mar 11, 2007 7:36 pm)
When you replaced the alternator, did you charge the battery up with a charger or just use the new alternator to charge the battery?
 
Whenever you replace the alternator and you have run your battery down dead you need to charge your battery with a charger rather than the alternator. I had this problem on my 94 legacy. I blew the alternator and ran on the battery til it died. Then replaced the alternator, jumped the car and thought all was good. A day or 2 later, the alternator died. Apparently it cooked itself from trying to charge the completely dead battery.
 
So I bought a new battery and alternator and all has been good for 30k miles more.
 
-mike

#16999 of 19283 Re: 96 OBW engine electric problem [paisan] by rondo320

Mar 12, 2007 (1:53 pm)

Replying to: paisan (Mar 11, 2007 7:56 pm)
Thanks Mike,
 
I did not. I'll charge it but the two front cylinders are getting no electrics at all. The battery seemed to weather the electric failure well. There's got to be a burned out relay, link or fuse or the computer itself is stopping any electric current from getting to the ignition coil for the front cylinders.
 
Rondo

#17001 of 19283 Re: 96 OBW engine electric problem [rondo320] by fordwrench

Mar 13, 2007 (7:57 pm)

Replying to: rondo320 (Mar 12, 2007 1:53 pm)
I'm talking as a Ford tech here, but if the check engine light is on & there is a misfire code listed,then even if you fix the problem the ignition is cut to the effected cylinders until the code is cleared. That is how Ford protects the cats. if a misfire is detected. I don't know if all manufactures use this type of programing but I thought is was worth mentioning.

#17002 of 19283 1st go at oil filter removal by xwesx

Mar 13, 2007 (9:32 pm)

Please, for the love of all that is good and reasonable in this world (if any such things still exist!), someone please impart upon me a small snipit of knowledge that will enable me to remove the factory-installed oil filter. I can see why Subaru went with this loopy-loop plumbing system for the exhaust (increases ground clearance), but the trade-off was that the oil filter is now snugly encircled by the plumbing and its associated heat shields. As a result, in addition to the downsized oil filter, the clearance is not only minimal (not to mention the risk of burns when changing oil on a warm engine!), but is also 3+" down! I can fit my hand on it, but just do not have the wrist torque to break it loose. I do not expect this will be a problem after I get this filter off, since it will be my hand installing them, but this one is quite a bear. I could get a large channel lock on it from the front side if I remove the upstream oxygen sensor, but I would rather not be that drastic nor run the risk of tearing up the filter without it actually coming off.
 
So, after the long-winded plea, any/all advice is welcome (other than "take it to a shop").
 
Thanks in advance.....
 
-Wes-

Messages Page 1701 of 1929

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