Last post on May 01, 2013 at 9:15 AM
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#16926 of 19283 Re: A few items [paisan]
Nov 23, 2006 (2:39 am)
Comforting to hear, thank you. I have heard those diagnostics can be costly just never had it done before, only my truck I had before this car would have qualified for a real test on it since the others were never so computerized. I came very close to needing the truck checked, it ran rough no matter what I tried, but then I traded it in to get the Subaru instead.
Yeah, those rotors... I shouldn't be too surprised to find out it was only the minor rust it gets from being parked in a carport. Sometimes only takes one night to look terrible. I was asked if it had rained that day or before, I couldn't remember at the moment but now I know. Reason I moved the car was to let a clothes dryer delivery van pull in, which they refused to do because of wires overhead (makes sense). It was raining and I had to dry off that dryer! Don't know why I couldn't remember that when asked.
I always expect the noise it creates when I go down the driveway, I just wasn't expecting to hear anything without brakes applied. Sure glad you said that to help me realize it, didn't think of them touching at all like that.
Fuel filter is only the one under the hood on this 2004 Impreza Outback Sport. Sits right up top by the driverside fender. I changed it last year and only difficulty I had was getting one of the hoses to let loose, was very simple to do and I think I paid about $20 to $25 for it.
HTD to all!
#16927 of 19283 Cool glad I could help.
Nov 23, 2006 (2:44 am)
By the way, I get rust on my rotors within about an hour after washing my car sometimes in the summer if it's real humid out. So not to worry.
#16928 of 19283 Re: Cool glad I could help. [paisan]
Nov 25, 2006 (8:51 pm)
I am curious now about the brake flushing. I didn't recall it being a PITA, other than having to worry whether my 10 year old was on the upstroke or the downstroke at the right time
Is it more than just pumping new fluid through until it gets the color change to the fluid in the bottle?
#16929 of 19283 Well to be done properly
Nov 26, 2006 (3:00 am)
You use a turkey baster to pull out as much fluid from the resivoir as you can, then refill with a dis-like color material.
Then you start with the brake that is furthest away from the resivoir. Have someone pump up the brakes til they are hard, then crack the valve while they push down. Once the pedal is down close the valve and repump up the brakes til they are hard and again open the valve until the pedal is on the floor. Repeat until you have a change in fluid color.
Repeat this procedure until you have done it on all the calipers, be sure to keep re-filling the resivoir.
It's mostly a PITA cause it's not quick, you have to pull all 4 wheels, etc.
Oh and if you get air in the lines, you'll be worse off than not having done it at all.
A bleed on the other hand is a few pumps at each brake caliper, usually done between flushes.
#16930 of 19283 Re: Well to be done properly [paisan]
Nov 26, 2006 (5:34 pm)
ok yup, doing it right here, but I haven't been smart enough to use the turkey baster. I have one coming up here next month so I'll get one (probably on sale now too!).
#16931 of 19283 Re: Well to be done properly [once_for_all]
Nov 26, 2006 (9:03 pm)
Actually I believe you're supposed to flush the caliper farthest away from the proportioning valve first not the reservoir.
Oh and another thing, I like the motive power bleeder for ~$50 (I think). No pumping the brake pedals just take out the old fluid in the reservoir like mike said with the turkey baster, then fill the power bleeder with new fluid, pump to 10psi and bleed until all the old fluid is out.
Nov 26, 2006 (9:29 pm)
Correct rangner, furthest from the proportioning valve, which on most cars is near the resivoir (but not all). Is the power bleeder a push or pull system? I've found the pull systems (such as the mityvac) don't work real well.
#16933 of 19283 Re: Yes [paisan]
Nov 27, 2006 (8:22 am)
The Motive power bleeder is a push system, as it is mounted on top of the master cylinder and supplies the new fluid under slight (and adjustable) pressure.
I like the ATE brake fluid, alternating between the "Super Blue" and "TYP 200 Amber" colors.
98 OBW Ltd (125,000 miles)
#16934 of 19283 Re: Yes [amsbear]
Nov 27, 2006 (8:28 am)
ATE is the best for the price. We run the Superblue in our race cars and find it to last a good amount of time despite our heavy braking! Alternating between it and the amber works well too! Some guys like the stuff that runs about $50-60 but it's not worth 4x the price of the ATE.
Nov 27, 2006 (9:01 am)
I tried one of those vacuum pumps to bleed the brakes and it was basically useless. Just didn't work much at all, tons of air bubbles made their way in.
I ended up resorting to the old "get the wife to pump the brakes" style, and it worked much better.
According to Cobb Tuning, with ABS, i.e. most new Subies, the ideal order is Front R, Rear L, Front L, Rear R.