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Maintenance & Repair Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars
791 messages, Last post on Aug 12, 2009 at 12:55 PM
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jul 12, 2009 3:33 pm) You could buy a couple of cans of R-134a at Checkers along with a refill valve. Just make sure you connect it to the low pressure side. I've seen people do this indefinitely until a catastrophic failure occurs either by corrosion on the evaporator core or disintegration of the compressor causing it to lock up. Since this is a 1997 vehicle and it still cools, I'd say you got your value out of the A/C and only you know if it would be worth repairing. A local shop could test for the R134a with a sensor that detects leaks and if its microscopic they can always use a can of R134a with dye in it. I'd bet you've got a small leak in the evaporator core since back in the 90s Amercian cars didn't come with those cab filters and the evaporator core gets trashed.
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Replying to: obyone (Jul 13, 2009 1:14 am) BTW, I called the coolant r-134. Is that the old Freon coolant? My owners manual says I have the newer non-Freon system. Am I using the wrong terms?
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jul 13, 2009 2:40 am)
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Replying to: obyone (Jul 13, 2009 3:16 am) I've got a 12 oz can of R12 in the garage. I'm waiting for it to go high enough to fund my kid's college education.  The R134a was only needed because the patent for DuPont ran out on R12. The idea that it was ruining the environment is not correct. Same with claritin being replaced by clarinex by the drug company; the patent was running out and now you can buy claritin over the counter. A little R134a will almost certainly be cheaper than replacing a larger item in the AC system. While the environment folks had us worrying about R12 and feeling guilty, the rest of the world was/is releasing R12. So I'd have the shop check for a noticeable leak (not likely or you'd be empty) and refill occasionally. If it were my GM I'd say it seeps around the compressor seals and 10 years was needed to drop enough to be noticed. |
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I'm not sure why an expiring patent would be seen as the reason for the demise of R12. That only means that Dupont no longer has an exclusive right to produce the product. Usually that brings additional competitors into the market and lowers price and increases availability. Whether you choose to believe the "science" or not, the ostensible reason for the demise of R12 was environmental concerns and the increasing power of the EPA. That same mentality has bled over into R134a, whether it is justified or not. Auto AC shops are required to capture all refrigerants and dispose of them properly. The rationale is that this measure protects the ozone layer. This also has an impact on loss of refrigerant in a closed system. That loss is seen by the EPA as escaped refrigerant that is attacking the ozone layer and needs to be regulated/controlled. In some states and overzealous shops this is viewed as a violation of EPA regulations and your car can be flagged as a "leaker" and be subject to additional scrutiny from the EPA, including denial of a license plate until the system is repaired($) or the AC disabled and removed. You can avoid this by purchasing the refill cans at the local parts store if you have no conscience over being solely responsible for destroying the earth. However, the cans are a hit and miss proposition and it's easy to over or under fill the system. To do it right you really need a refrigerant manifold set and enough knowledge to measure ambient temperature and both high and low side pressures. If you have several cars(and want to be the most popular resident in the neighborhood), this might be a reasonable investment for under $50 plus a little internet research. |
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Replying to: air_door_fix (Jul 13, 2009 4:44 pm) I don't because it's not been proven. To discuss the global warming and ozone hole faux science: Are autos responsible for global warming >this might be a reasonable investment for under $50 plus a little internet research Agree with that. I found Harbor Freight has a good set (all their tools aren't always top notch). A vacuum pump would be a good investment also. But a good bit of knowledge goes along with using this setup; the potential for damage to the system is there. Adding a can of freon R134a is somewhat idiot proof as long as one follows the gauge and cools the condensor as they add freon. If I need a manifold, a barnyard mechanic up the road has a set I can borrow. A slow loss over 10 years is one thing; a seep that's losing a can a year needs to be checked out by professionals who know where leaks typically occur in that model of car.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 13, 2009 6:07 pm) I once bought a bulk pack of razor blades for $1.99 vs the American version at $5.99. What I found was the cardboard that they are wrapped in was no longer cardboard but thin paper and a few of the blades had no edge not to mention that the crimps were missing on some causing the blades to fall apart. But hey for a buck ninety nine what do you expect. 
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My auto (2005 Chevy) A/C - the compressor engages but a few seconds later disengages. It does cool, but limited and I can't have the compressor going on and off like that. I had added r-134 - just a little low - and think I might have gotten air into the refrigerant. Has anyone had a similar experience?
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Replying to: hop2 (Jul 16, 2009 5:49 am)
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Replying to: air_door_fix (Jul 13, 2009 4:44 pm) That reminds me of the joke about the 80 year old man who married the 20 year old stripper. His friends all took him aside and asked him if he wasn't worried that having sex with a 20 year old might result in death. His response was: "If she dies, she dies!".
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