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Maintenance & Repair Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars
791 messages, Last post on Aug 12, 2009 at 12:55 PM
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| The A/C blows out of the defrost vent only even though I select the front vents. why is this happening | |
| Ok, hear goes.. I am not vehicle inclined at all. But I can give good discriptions on what is going on. My a/c was working great, then one day when I turned it to high #5 it would be off, then when I turned it to #1 it was high. They were VISSA VERSA Backwards( It has #s' Off & then 1-5) When I would turn it to off it would not turn off. Now around the 2nd or 3rd day, it all just stopped working. The light is lit wear it says air, and It is NOT blowing though. When I turn on differant #'s low to high I do not hear it change over, but when I turn the vents to come out on top, or the front vents, or the floor, I can hear the engine like change over.( Not sure if that is what I call it Sorry but like it wants to work, no loud noises regular noises) But get this, when I try to turn it to heat, the heat is NOT even coming on. This is strange, It was never ever making noices like a motor was going out or anything. I need air.. It is so hot. Thanks anyone who has any ideas.. | |
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I have a 1997 Chrysler Cirrus. a/c has worked fine all these years and has never had any service. This year I notice that it is not blowing as cool as before. It takes 10 miles or 20 minutes before the car feels like it is getting cooler. I'm thinking that it needs a recharge since it does cool to some extent. If the compressor was shot it would not cool at all. Also, if I had a major leak in the system all the r-134 would leak out and I would not have any cooling either. Any opinions?
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jul 12, 2009 3:33 pm) My 1998 car got light on cooling a couple summers back. If the heat load wasn't great, it seemed to cool okay; but as the heat load increased during the day, it just felt insufficient. I added freon up to the max based on the colors on the gauge--still within the green, e.g. Put a fan in front of the radiator and run the motor at about 1500 and just start adding. |
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jul 12, 2009 3:33 pm) You could buy a couple of cans of R-134a at Checkers along with a refill valve. Just make sure you connect it to the low pressure side. I've seen people do this indefinitely until a catastrophic failure occurs either by corrosion on the evaporator core or disintegration of the compressor causing it to lock up. Since this is a 1997 vehicle and it still cools, I'd say you got your value out of the A/C and only you know if it would be worth repairing. A local shop could test for the R134a with a sensor that detects leaks and if its microscopic they can always use a can of R134a with dye in it. I'd bet you've got a small leak in the evaporator core since back in the 90s Amercian cars didn't come with those cab filters and the evaporator core gets trashed.
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Replying to: obyone (Jul 13, 2009 1:14 am) BTW, I called the coolant r-134. Is that the old Freon coolant? My owners manual says I have the newer non-Freon system. Am I using the wrong terms?
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jul 13, 2009 2:40 am)
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Replying to: obyone (Jul 13, 2009 3:16 am) I've got a 12 oz can of R12 in the garage. I'm waiting for it to go high enough to fund my kid's college education.  The R134a was only needed because the patent for DuPont ran out on R12. The idea that it was ruining the environment is not correct. Same with claritin being replaced by clarinex by the drug company; the patent was running out and now you can buy claritin over the counter. A little R134a will almost certainly be cheaper than replacing a larger item in the AC system. While the environment folks had us worrying about R12 and feeling guilty, the rest of the world was/is releasing R12. So I'd have the shop check for a noticeable leak (not likely or you'd be empty) and refill occasionally. If it were my GM I'd say it seeps around the compressor seals and 10 years was needed to drop enough to be noticed. |
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I'm not sure why an expiring patent would be seen as the reason for the demise of R12. That only means that Dupont no longer has an exclusive right to produce the product. Usually that brings additional competitors into the market and lowers price and increases availability. Whether you choose to believe the "science" or not, the ostensible reason for the demise of R12 was environmental concerns and the increasing power of the EPA. That same mentality has bled over into R134a, whether it is justified or not. Auto AC shops are required to capture all refrigerants and dispose of them properly. The rationale is that this measure protects the ozone layer. This also has an impact on loss of refrigerant in a closed system. That loss is seen by the EPA as escaped refrigerant that is attacking the ozone layer and needs to be regulated/controlled. In some states and overzealous shops this is viewed as a violation of EPA regulations and your car can be flagged as a "leaker" and be subject to additional scrutiny from the EPA, including denial of a license plate until the system is repaired($) or the AC disabled and removed. You can avoid this by purchasing the refill cans at the local parts store if you have no conscience over being solely responsible for destroying the earth. However, the cans are a hit and miss proposition and it's easy to over or under fill the system. To do it right you really need a refrigerant manifold set and enough knowledge to measure ambient temperature and both high and low side pressures. If you have several cars(and want to be the most popular resident in the neighborhood), this might be a reasonable investment for under $50 plus a little internet research. |
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Replying to: air_door_fix (Jul 13, 2009 4:44 pm) I don't because it's not been proven. To discuss the global warming and ozone hole faux science: Are autos responsible for global warming >this might be a reasonable investment for under $50 plus a little internet research Agree with that. I found Harbor Freight has a good set (all their tools aren't always top notch). A vacuum pump would be a good investment also. But a good bit of knowledge goes along with using this setup; the potential for damage to the system is there. Adding a can of freon R134a is somewhat idiot proof as long as one follows the gauge and cools the condensor as they add freon. If I need a manifold, a barnyard mechanic up the road has a set I can borrow. A slow loss over 10 years is one thing; a seep that's losing a can a year needs to be checked out by professionals who know where leaks typically occur in that model of car.
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