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Maintenance & Repair Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars
791 messages, Last post on Aug 12, 2009 at 12:55 PM
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My A/C has been faulty for almost 2 years, i really need help. It seems to function perfectly well in cool or rainy conditions. In winter, there was no problems. But every time the weather warms up, the a/c in the car can only work for a few minutes, before warming up to the point of blowing air that is 26deg.C. Every 2 mintues or so it repeats the cycle, cooing down to about 10deg.C. Of course it only happens while driving, so mechanics are having a hard time diagnosing the problem while it's on the road. I have had the evaporator replaced, the system flushed a new thermister and expansion valve. Of course i have no idea what all those words mean. The mechanic says the weather has nothing to do with it,  but i tested my theory again this morning in the cold rain, and it stayed at 5deg.C the whole time. Took the car out 2 hours later when the sun had come out, and straight away it was blowing hot air. Oh, and when it does decide to cool down, it makes a high pitched squeal. Please Please Please help.  I'm taking the car back Wednesday, and I want to have some ideas for them.
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As the temperatures have dropped, My 99 RL Climate Control has begun to blow cold air long after the car is warmed up - the dash temp guage shows normal. The Climate Control "thinks" it should be warm air because the automatic fan kicks in, but the air is only cold. It is sometimes 10-15 minutes or longer before the air becomes warm, so we have to turn of the system and periodically try it to see if it is warm yet. Then once it blows warm, it is fine for the remainder of the trip. Any ideas? |
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Hi, My 1999 Ford Expedition recently stopped blowing out any heat. Blower blows fine, but not enough heat. Brought it to a local shop and they replaced the thermostat. Picked up the truck and bearly any heat and truck runs rough. Check engine light came on half way home. Brought it right back to shop and they said that it takes the thermostat awhile to "open" up and that I probably need new spark plugs. Truck ran smoothly when I brought it in. Spark plugs were changed at approx. 90,000 miles. Could the shop have disrupted anything or caused the truck to misfire and engine light to come on. Computer check said something about cylinder #7 misfire, but something seems weird. Please advise.
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Replying to: marc1973 (Jan 01, 2008 2:14 pm) As for the thermostat opening, it would create heat if it didn't open up. The thermostat opens to allow coolant to circulate to cool the system down or keep it at a specific temperature. If your vehicle has A/C, then it is a good possibility that there is a problem with either the blend door or the blend door actuator. It the blend door doesn't close all the way, it allows the cold air from the A/C to overtake any heat. The other possibility is that the heater core has become plugged. Has the cooling system ever been serviced? How clean is the coolant?
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Replying to: 0patience (Jan 01, 2008 11:27 pm) |
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Replying to: marc1973 (Jan 01, 2008 2:14 pm) Is there a shutoff valve that is closed for AC use to keep the heater from reheating AC air when really cold air is needed? Is that shutoff valve open? Is it vacuum operated? A vacuum leak could cause rough idle and strange running and engine light. The misfire might have been a wire pulled loose as they worked. First check for me would be to hold both heater hoses as close the firewall as I can grab them and see if they're really hot after the motor has been run for 10-15 minutes or more. That lets you now coolant is flowing through the heater core. From there it would be to the inside to see what's moving and what's not moving when you adjust the controls to heater and full hot. |
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| I will be traveling down the highway going at least 60 MPH but at times the odometer will get stuck at 30 MPH or 40 MPH , the next day everything appears to be working fine again, this is now becoming a cycle. I contacted a locate dealership and was advised to purchase a new sensor device, costing around $500 bucks. I was told the whole dash board would have to be removed to get to the damaged part. What else could be causing this? Different temperature changes, low batteries, a bad fuse, condensation in the panel???? | |
what is causing the sensor that is monitoring the speed I am going to read inaccurate one day and accurate the next day. Sometimes it will freeze up and just get stuck, I lightly tap the panel to help loosen up, sometimes this works and resets the monitor correctly. The buick dealership recommends I replace a part that will cost me $500, I was told the front panel has to be removed to replace this part, Could a loose wire, bad fuse, poor batteries, condensation with temperture changes be the culprit? I cannot understand paying out this much money for a replacement part when the part actually still works, just not all the time.
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Replying to: bugatti3 (Jan 07, 2008 2:07 am) What you should try, is to start driving around with the cruise control on. If you are driving lets say at 60 mph for 10 minutes, and then the speedometer now reads 30 but the car continues at the same speed controlled by cruise control, then you know that the transmission sensor and computer are okay, and the problem is likely the dash/display. On the other hand, if you are driving at 60 on cruise, and all of a sudden the speedomenter drops to 30 and the cruise either triggers off....or speeds the car up, then you should suspect the transmission sensor. |
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I have 2006 expedition EB edition. The heater blows very hot air while the temperature is on 67F, even if I lower the temperature to 65F where no heater should be working, it still blows very hot air. This Usually happens when the outside temperature is low (30's). It makes a little difference when turn the A/C on with recycle air. I took it to the dealer and they did not find any problem. Most of the times I have to turn it off in order to breath in the care since it get very hot. any body have any clue
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