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Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

791 messages,  Last post on Aug 12, 2009 at 12:55 PM

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What is this discussion about? Heating / Cooling


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#694 of 791
Re: 2004 Chevy Silverado A/C [wornout59] by sdmcarlson
Oct 17, 2007 (7:52 pm)
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Replying to: wornout59 (Oct 06, 2007 7:44 am)

I have the exact same problem. 2004 Silverado. With AC on (or even just the vent) I will get very hot air blowing from the drivers side vents only. And, as you said, must re-start the vehicle to "re-set". Did you find what the problem was exactly and what was the part name/number?
#695 of 791
Re: Only hot air blowing out of vents on Nissan Sentra 2000 [flasentra] by bahjatkalandos
Oct 17, 2007 (8:02 pm)
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Replying to: flasentra (Jun 09, 2005 2:27 pm)

I have 2005 nissan sentra with the same problem. these days are kind of cold mornings, so I turned the knob to the heater, when in the afternoon tried to run the A/C by turning the knob to cold, I still get hot air.
It looks like the heat/cold valve is stuck on the heat.
Do you have update on your car situation, I mean did you figure it out what exactly was the problem.
Thanks for any update you provide.
#696 of 791
Re: 2004 Chevy Silverado A/C [sdmcarlson] by wornout59
Oct 20, 2007 (4:42 am)
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Replying to: sdmcarlson (Oct 17, 2007 7:52 pm)

I think its fixed a couple more weeks to be certain. Two weeks ago I replaced the drivers side temp actuator GM part # 89018365, it was just under $200 with tax from the dealer. You can get it thru www.gmpartsdirect.com for almost half that price now that you have the part #. Take off the duct shroud ( 4 screws ) and the actuator is right above the hump in the floor, only 2 screws & pull down. You can fell the spindel or shaft that connets to to flapper that lets in the heated air, open and close manually with your finger tips an you can hear it open & close. Line that shaft to the opening in the actuator and reinstall the 2 screw. I plugged the new one in first and started the truck to watch the actuator turn to the close flap position (no heat) which is what I had manually put the flap in. It was a very simple job 10-20 minutes. I like to know what the dealer would have charged, probably pretty high. I also found out when I got the part that their are 3 or 4 actuators in that system. The passengers side is above the drivers at the top side or the duct (under top of dash), hope that one never goes, and theirs one for recirculation door and I think their is one more somewhere in their. hope this helps.
#697 of 791
heater motor by mikpalm
Oct 21, 2007 (10:00 am)
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I have 95 aaccord ex etec engine. The heater fan motor just quit. After checking i've found the motor if ok, the swithch has power. The schematic in the manual says there is a rheostat and a relay for this motor. Any one know where these are located? or other sugesstions?
thanks mikpalm
#698 of 791
Re: heater motor [mikpalm] by kiawah
Oct 21, 2007 (12:44 pm)
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Replying to: mikpalm (Oct 21, 2007 10:00 am)

typically the resistors are put inside the plenum itself, so that the air moving thru the plenum helps cool the resistors (and you get the heat from the resistors). Look for an area on the plenum where wires go to it, and bolts on to the side of the plenum.
#699 of 791
MAZDA 94 MX3 - Defrost not working proer by likemycar
Oct 21, 2007 (6:34 pm)
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I have a 94 mazda mx3, the defrost and the rear defrost are not clearing the fog the way it should. What could be the problem any idea?
#700 of 791
MAZDA 1997 ASTINA - A/C only works for 2mins when driving by alikat1
Oct 29, 2007 (1:57 am)
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My A/C has been faulty for almost 2 years, i really need help. It seems to function perfectly well in cool or rainy conditions. In winter, there was no problems. But every time the weather warms up, the a/c in the car can only work for a few minutes, before warming up to the point of blowing air that is 26deg.C. Every 2 mintues or so it repeats the cycle, cooing down to about 10deg.C. Of course it only happens while driving, so mechanics are having a hard time diagnosing the problem while it's on the road. I have had the evaporator replaced, the system flushed a new thermister and expansion valve. Of course i have no idea what all those words mean. The mechanic says the weather has nothing to do with it, but i tested my theory again this morning in the cold rain, and it stayed at 5deg.C the whole time. Took the car out 2 hours later when the sun had come out, and straight away it was blowing hot air. Oh, and when it does decide to cool down, it makes a high pitched squeal. Please Please Please help. I'm taking the car back Wednesday, and I want to have some ideas for them.
#701 of 791
Acura Climate Control - no heat at first! by mrdenisn
Dec 14, 2007 (5:48 am)
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As the temperatures have dropped, My 99 RL Climate Control has begun to blow cold air long after the car is warmed up - the dash temp guage shows normal. The Climate Control "thinks" it should be warm air because the automatic fan kicks in, but the air is only cold. It is sometimes 10-15 minutes or longer before the air becomes warm, so we have to turn of the system and periodically try it to see if it is warm yet. Then once it blows warm, it is fine for the remainder of the trip.
 
Any ideas?
#702 of 791
Thermostat replaced, now truck runs rough by marc1973
Jan 01, 2008 (2:14 pm)
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Hi,
My 1999 Ford Expedition recently stopped blowing out any heat. Blower blows fine, but not enough heat. Brought it to a local shop and they replaced the thermostat. Picked up the truck and bearly any heat and truck runs rough. Check engine light came on half way home. Brought it right back to shop and they said that it takes the thermostat awhile to "open" up and that I probably need new spark plugs. Truck ran smoothly when I brought it in. Spark plugs were changed at approx. 90,000 miles. Could the shop have disrupted anything or caused the truck to misfire and engine light to come on. Computer check said something about cylinder #7 misfire, but something seems weird. Please advise.
#703 of 791
Re: Thermostat replaced, now truck runs rough [marc1973] by 0patience
Jan 01, 2008 (11:27 pm)
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Replying to: marc1973 (Jan 01, 2008 2:14 pm)

More than likely, the thermostat wasn't even the problem.
As for the thermostat opening, it would create heat if it didn't open up. The thermostat opens to allow coolant to circulate to cool the system down or keep it at a specific temperature.
 
If your vehicle has A/C, then it is a good possibility that there is a problem with either the blend door or the blend door actuator.
It the blend door doesn't close all the way, it allows the cold air from the A/C to overtake any heat.
 
The other possibility is that the heater core has become plugged.
  
Has the cooling system ever been serviced?
 
How clean is the coolant?

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