Door noises on Chevy K1500 Extended cab LS Z71 - READ ONLY

29 messages, Last post on Jul 04, 2002 at 8:34 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet C/K 1500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 2500 Series, GMC C/K 1500 Series, Truck

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#15 of 29 TSB by obyone Jun 01, 2002 (10:38 am)
Side Access Door - Squeak or Scraping Noise File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories Bulletin No.: 01-08-64-015 Date: October, 2001 TECHNICAL Subject: Front and Rear Side Access Door Noise (Replace Door Check Link) Models: 1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra) 2000-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali) 2001 GMC C3 Sierra 2002 Cadillac Escalade Condition Some customers may comment on a squeak or scraping type noise while opening the front and rear side access doors. Correction Replace the door check link on affected vehicles. Use the part numbers listed below. Refer to the Doors sub-section in the appropriate Service Manual for the Door Check Link Replacement procedure. Parts Information Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information Labor operation Description Labor/time B4050/B4051 Link or spring 0.5 hr. front door hold open replace right/left B4490/B4491 Link or spring, rear 0.4 hr. door hold open-replace right/left For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table as shown
#16 of 29 Thanks Obs by noobie1 Jun 01, 2002 (11:16 am)
Now we know that isn't relevant. - David
#17 of 29 noobie1 by pjcav Jun 01, 2002 (3:38 pm)
I plan on using silicone on the door seals to see if that helps quiet the squeaking/rubbing. I only hear it when the body flexes like pulling into a drivway or hitting fairly large bumps in the road. i still dont understand why only the driver side and not the passenger. I will let you know if the Lube helps. pat
#18 of 29 pjcav by mentor34 Jun 03, 2002 (3:28 pm)
Keep us posted, the driver's side squeak on my 2002 2500HD makes the whole vehicle seem cheap whenever a bump or corner are encountered.
#19 of 29 Don' you just hate that squeaking and by obyone Jun 03, 2002 (4:39 pm)
creaking over them bumps? One thing for sure its not the hinges themselves cause they are welded. There is a kit to replace the weld with bolts should they have to break the weld to adjust the door. Course they won't tell you that.
#20 of 29 Pat by noobie1 Jun 08, 2002 (9:24 am)
You remarked in Post #13 that you broke one of the two black plastic tabs stuck into the headliner. In case you didn't notice, they are a latch having two parts. One part goes on the top of the headliner, the other part snaps into it from the bottom, holding it in place. The two tangs of the cover in turn snap into them. Not realizing this, I too thought I had broken one of them until I found the missing part on the top of the headliner. So I ended up adjusting the rear door latch inward using all the movement available, 11/64, which pretty much duplicates the door movement on the passenger side. Greased it up and left the cover off for the time being. I'll let you know the results next week. Thinking positive. -David
#21 of 29 noobie1 by pjcav Jun 12, 2002 (6:41 pm)
dave i did actuallly break one of the black tabs. i saw it was two pieces, but one of the tabs on the lower half piece did in fact snp off. i went to the dealer to see if i could get a few, but they could not find any in the parts list. they believe they come with another part as in the headliner, which i dont plan on buying. i will just super glue it. so how does the 11/64 work out. you say you moved in the upper strike as far as it will go?? pat
#22 of 29 pjcac by noobie1 Jun 14, 2002 (4:57 pm)
Yeah, all the way in, but there's still noise. Greased the area well too. However, as I said previously, I left that plastic cover off and while driving down my road just now (very uneven) I stuck my fingers up in there touching the black plastic latch and the strike at the same time. The movement felt is definitely coordinated to the sound heard. A little grease on the mating face might be the ticket. Think I'll give it a shot. Get back to ya. -David
#23 of 29 pjcav by noobie1 Jun 16, 2002 (10:44 am)
It appears there's not enough grease in the world to stop that creaking. The latest test was to return the strike to the factory position and start over. Having taken the plastic cover off the other side to compare them visually I noticed, (1) the rubber bumper at the back of the latch slot doesn't protrude out as far on the driver's side, allowing the strike to plunge deeper into the latch, actually rubbing the paint off the metal sandwich at the back. (2) the strike was also lower in the slot on the driver's side, low enough to rub the paint off the metal there as well. The first condition was 'corrected' by rotating the strike forward slightly. It appears now that the strike doesn't indeed plunge as deeply although still not matching the passenger side. The second condition was corrected with (don't laugh) a large hammer and a block of wood (not recommended, but effective). The strike is now positioned in the middle of the slot. I gave it a brief test and so far so good. Another week for a more thorough test and I'll report back. Are these the same conditions you've found? Are you trying anything different? BTW, Those plastic fasteners holding the covers on don't work the way they were designed. What a royal pain! Either that or they were never meant to be removed which I find doubtful. I took an Exacto knife and carefully trimmed the thickness of the tabs so they work more smoothly. -David
#24 of 29 Pat & All by noobie1 Jun 22, 2002 (9:02 am)
No more noise. I guess there is enough grease after all. The real test though won't be until cold weather returns. But the question still remains, why only on the driver's side? It suggests that the techniques I used (liberal amounts of silicon lube on all the rubber, WD-40 on all three latches, and rotating the upper strike forward) may only be temporarily masking some defect. Time will tell. Hope this helps. -David