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Door noises on Chevy K1500 Extended cab LS Z71 - READ ONLY

29 messages,  Last post on Jul 04, 2002 at 9:34 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet C/K 1500 Series, Chevrolet C/K 2500 Series, GMC C/K 1500 Series, Truck

Messages Page 3 of 3

#20 of 29 Pat by noobie1

Jun 08, 2002 (10:24 am)

     You remarked in Post #13 that you broke one of the two black plastic tabs stuck into the headliner. In case you didn't notice, they are a latch having two parts. One part goes on the top of the headliner, the other part snaps into it from the bottom, holding it in place. The two tangs of the cover in turn snap into them. Not realizing this, I too thought I had broken one of them until I found the missing part on the top of the headliner.
     So I ended up adjusting the rear door latch inward using all the movement available, 11/64, which pretty much duplicates the door movement on the passenger side. Greased it up and left the cover off for the time being. I'll let you know the results next week. Thinking positive.
 
-David

#21 of 29 noobie1 by pjcav

Jun 12, 2002 (7:41 pm)

dave
i did actuallly break one of the black tabs. i saw it was two pieces, but one of the tabs on the lower half piece did in fact snp off. i went to the dealer to see if i could get a few, but they could not find any in the parts list. they believe they come with another part as in the headliner, which i dont plan on buying. i will just super glue it. so how does the 11/64 work out. you say you moved in the upper strike as far as it will go??
 
pat

#22 of 29 pjcac by noobie1

Jun 14, 2002 (5:57 pm)

Yeah, all the way in, but there's still noise. Greased the area well too. However, as I said previously, I left that plastic cover off and while driving down my road just now (very uneven) I stuck my fingers up in there touching the black plastic latch and the strike at the same time. The movement felt is definitely coordinated to the sound heard. A little grease on the mating face might be the ticket. Think I'll give it a shot. Get back to ya.
 
-David

#23 of 29 pjcav by noobie1

Jun 16, 2002 (11:44 am)

     It appears there's not enough grease in the world to stop that creaking.
     The latest test was to return the strike to the factory position and start over.
     Having taken the plastic cover off the other side to compare them visually I noticed, (1) the rubber bumper at the back of the latch slot doesn't protrude out as far on the driver's side, allowing the strike to plunge deeper into the latch, actually rubbing the paint off the metal sandwich at the back. (2) the strike was also lower in the slot on the driver's side, low enough to rub the paint off the metal there as well. The first condition was 'corrected' by rotating the strike forward slightly. It appears now that the strike doesn't indeed plunge as deeply although still not matching the passenger side. The second condition was corrected with (don't laugh) a large hammer and a block of wood (not recommended, but effective). The strike is now positioned in the middle of the slot. I gave it a brief test and so far so good. Another week for a more thorough test and I'll report back.
     Are these the same conditions you've found? Are you trying anything different?
     BTW, Those plastic fasteners holding the covers on don't work the way they were designed. What a royal pain! Either that or they were never meant to be removed which I find doubtful. I took an Exacto knife and carefully trimmed the thickness of the tabs so they work more smoothly.
 
-David

#24 of 29 Pat & All by noobie1

Jun 22, 2002 (10:02 am)

     No more noise. I guess there is enough grease after all. The real test though won't be until cold weather returns. But the question still remains, why only on the driver's side? It suggests that the techniques I used (liberal amounts of silicon lube on all the rubber, WD-40 on all three latches, and rotating the upper strike forward) may only be temporarily masking some defect. Time will tell.
     Hope this helps.
 
-David

#25 of 29 noobie1 by pjcav

Jun 23, 2002 (8:32 am)

I am going to try youre ideas today. i will see if i get the same results. by the way i left my trim cover off until i am done adjusting. i am pretty sure the black tabs will eventually break with constant removal.
 
pat

#26 of 29 Pat by noobie1

Jun 23, 2002 (8:58 am)

     I forgot to mention leaving the doors open until the solvent in the WD-40 evaporates, unless of course you like the odor. Let us know what happens.
 
-David

#27 of 29 david by pjcav

Jun 30, 2002 (6:09 pm)

well i siliconed all the rubber sealing strips on my truck after i cleaned them. i also adjusted the uper door strike in a little, and adjusted my drivers door( it stuck out a little in relation to the rear door) strike mounted on the rear door. i will test it out tommorrow on the way to work and let you know. how is your adjustments working out.
 
pat

#28 of 29 Pat by noobie1

Jul 04, 2002 (9:34 am)

     I haven't heard much since last post. Just a kind of rubbing sound when the body flexes. Not very objectionable but tried something else anyway. I bought this product for the rubber boot on the cap. Worked very well to quell the rubbing sound also associated with flexing - 3M Silicon Lubricant Plus (Wet Type). Comes in a spray can. I took a small piece of cotton cloth saturated with it and again covered all the gasket surfaces plus, this time, all the mating metal surfaces. It's advantage is that it drys pretty thoroughly leaving a very slick surface.
     We haven't talked before about that rear door window. I've heard sounds, a kind of tinny, ticking associated with body flex, that vaguely have the 'ring' of tempered glass. I think the gasket around it is vinyl which gives further cause for suspicion. Using a Q-Tip and that saturated cloth I covered all areas that touch. So far, good results, but as previously, the real test is cold weather. Keep in touch.
 
-David

Messages Page 3 of 3

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