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Sedans Audi A6 Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair
1201 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 6:07 AM
You are in the Audi A6 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
I live in Framingham MA and have a 2001 A6 2.7T and have oil leaks in the turbos. The dealer tells me $2,000 to pull the engine and then another $4,000 - $6,000 to fix the problem depending upon what they find. Anyone know of a indy dealer around Framingham MA that I could bring it to? $6-$8 K sounds outrageous and I would like to get another opinion. Thanks for the help...
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I'm a newbie to this forum, so I'm especially looking forward to your feedback. I did a search for this topic, but didn't find anything similar previously. Well, here's my problem. I bought my dad's 2001 A6 2.7 with Tiptronic last summer. It's a great car and has only 68,000 miles. But a couple of months ago I noticed that when I started the car in the morning and put it in Drive, the engine revs would speed up to 2000-2200 rpm, while the car would barely accelerate. It was as if the tranny was not engaged with the engine properly and only a tiny amount of power was going to the wheels. As soon as this happens (virtually every morning at start-up), I ease off the gas pedal for a second or two, then press down again. At this point, the car drives perfectly for the rest of the day. If I drive somewhere, park it for an hour or twon, then start it again, it drives just fine. Lately, though, the problem has become a bit more pronounced. Sometimes I can rev the just-started engine to 2800 rpm with hardly any power going to the wheels. My mechanic checked bulletins and found that Audi redersigned the torque converter because the original design was prone to an internal seal leaking, which would cause this problem. He called a buddy who works in the Parts dept. at the local Audi dealer who said "Yup, that's the problem", and that they stock these new replacement torque converters (at $970 a pop), since they sell one or two a week to suckers like me. Though Audi recognizes that this is a problem, it doesn't do anything to mitigate the expense of replacing defective converters. By the way, labor is estimated to take 17 hours, since the tranny has to be removed.. so the total deal is like $2,100+... and that's using my own skilled and very fair mechanic. God knows what the dealer would charge. Have any of you Audi owners heard of this issue or experienced it first hand? What do you think of this situation- is Audi being fair or am I being unreasonable in feeling a bit pissed off? Thanks, Andy Hollis, NH |
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I'm trying to find a good source online for Audi parts. Particularly, I'm looking for air filters, cabin filters, oil filters, and spark plugs. I'm wanting to order a Bentley manual for it, but in the meantime, I have a few questions: 1. Can somebody direct me to where the cabin filter is? I suspect is under the hood in the cowl, but want to make sure. 2. Also, is the oil filter best accessed from under the car? I suspect I have to remove those plastic panels, but want to confirm. 3. Where are the attachment points for the plastic covers on the engine? I want to swap spark plugs, but don't want to break anything in the process. I know, I know. Basic questions, but I'm used to BMW's and Jeeps.  -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (May 28, 2008 9:18 am) NOTE: * Replacement interval for dust and pollen filter * The dust and pollen filter consists of 2 identical filter elements. Pay attention to correct installation position when installing (direction of flow is marked with arrows). * If necessary, clean plenum chamber after replacing dust and pollen filter. Pay particular attention to area beneath air intake unit. * Clean dust and pollen filter mounting slot in Heating and A/C unit before installing new filter. * There are different dust and pollen filter versions. The two filters have a different air resistance. Particular attention is therefore to be paid to correct version. Control characteristic for actuation of Fresh Air Blower V2 is adapted accordingly in control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255. * Filter with activated charcoal element (as integrated odor filter) is installed on vehicles with control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255 Parts List. Such vehicles are equipped with an Air Quality Sensor G238. Removing NOTE: * Depending on vehicle equipment, for certain versions or certain optional equipment (e.g. vehicles equipped with "Global Positioning System"), it may be necessary to remove the glove compartment (it is possible other specific control modules which are installed in this area, e.g. Special Purpose Vehicle Control Module J608 must also be removed). Depending on vehicle equipment, a foam insulation element may be installed (glued) in area of cover -on certain versions, remove it if necessary. * Remove cover - A - from lower trim of glove compartment - B -. NOTE: Cover - A - is held in position in lower trim of glove compartment - B - by way of 4 fasteners. These may be difficult to release and care is therefore to be taken to avoid damaging lower trim of glove compartment - B - on removal. * Protect floor covering with paper in area beneath slot for dust and pollen filter in Heating and A/C unit in front passengers footwell. Release fastener - B - and remove cover - A - for dust and pollen filter from Heating and A/C unit. * Remove first section of dust and pollen filter - A - from Heating and A/C unit. NOTE: 2 identical filter elements are installed in vertical arrangement in Heating and A/C unit. * Reach into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and pull second section of dust and pollen filter - B - downwards (at tab) and then out of air conditioner slot. Installing * Remove leaves, dust and other contamination from mounting slot for dust and pollen filter of Heating and A/C unit - C - using commercially available vacuum cleaner, Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 (and corresponding hose). NOTE: Dust and other contamination may cling to Heating and A/C unit. A brush is attached to Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 for removing such contamination. * Insert first section - B - of dust and pollen filter into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and slide it into upper installation position, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator). * If necessary, use steel rule for example to hold first section of dust and pollen filter - B - in upper installation position. * Slide second section of dust and pollen filter - A - (beneath first section - B - installed) into slot of Heating and A/C unit, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator). * Check position of seal - C - in groove - D -. * Install cover - A -, paying attention to correct positioning in mount - E - and fastener - B -. * Re-install remaining components removed in reverse order. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------  Maybe in real life it's easier than it looks in the book? Labor time at dealer is only .4 hours, part is $36 dollars, so at the dealer the job might be like $75?? sorry I couldn't post all the diagrams but they aren't very clear anyway. ">
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 30, 2008 7:49 am) This at least tells me it is in the passenger side dash. I can figure it from there. -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (May 30, 2008 9:02 am) A6 Cabin Filter, Not The Gold-Plated One |
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Replying to: bluea6 (Jan 29, 2006 8:43 pm) P.S. This will never be fixed. They just don't know what causes it. OR, they know and the only solution is total system and window motor/assy replacement & they are not willing to do that! |
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I have a 1996 Audi A6. Recently, the Malfunction Indicator Light came on. I brought it down to AutoZone and they did a very basic scan for no charge. The guy told me that it was probably the ignition coils that was triggering the light to come on. He told me to bring it to a mechanic. So far, every mechanic I've talked to wants to charge me about $90 to have the issue diagnosed. I told them it may have something to do with the ignition coils. They said one ignition coil would cost around $350, and then figure in the labor (30 min - 1 hour). This just seems like a lot of money for a problem that I would not have noticed if it were not for the light to come on. Any suggestions? Is there somewhere that might fix this for cheaper?
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Replying to: chrisaudi (Jun 12, 2008 9:01 am) I have found that some of the local shops that specialize in Audi and have the diagnostic machines will do a diagnosis gratis (but they are few and far between). I have had the car to 4 different shops, they all seem to say the same thing but vary in price from $1500 to $5000 for the torque converter-worth doing a little checking around on. The coils were a recall item in 2003 or 2004 on some models (you might want to check that out). |
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Replying to: kowens (May 24, 2008 1:53 pm) |
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