Last post on May 13, 2013 at 11:21 AM
You are in the Audi A6
What is this discussion about?
Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon
#731 of 1402 Re: 1999 A6....Suspension problems?? [mongo_slade]
Apr 29, 2006 (8:50 pm)
Hi. I also have an A6, mine is a 1998, and I have about 105,000 miles on mine. There are a couple of weak spots in the front suspension that you need to be aware of- the first being the tie rod ends. This is probably the one he is identifying at the most serious hazard. However- you need to check and see if there is a recall item on this and whether it applies to your car. It seems- if my memory serves me- that they had to change them to cast iron units, because the others were wearing prematurely. At any rate, I had mine done at about 80,000 so the time seems about right. Check with an Audi dealer for recalls. Otherwise, these should be replaced- but as the other guy said- he should be able to demonstrate it bad ends on the rack- there will be excessive play in them. If they are bad and you have to pay for replacing them- you are looking at $300-$400. Not $1300. Yes these are a saftey related issue and get them done SOON. The other weak point are the control arms. They are aluminum, and they have a tendency to wear out on A6's. The upper ones are cheaper, and the lower ones are more expensive- but they don't tend to go bad all at once. I had 2 uppers go bad so far. The others are just fine. We check them periodically. If one of these goes bad, you will have a clunk as it rattles where the bushing is. The bushings go bad but you can't replace them- have to get the whole arm. With one of these bad, it will clunk way before the safety part comes to play, but with the tie rod ends, I had no indication I could tell when driving. Get a second opinion, have them show you the play, get a better price. Unless of course they are all bad then the price seems about right- but unlikely. Get those tie rod ends checked! Hope this helps.
#732 of 1402 Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid
Apr 29, 2006 (9:03 pm)
I have a 1998 A6, and am wanting to convert the ATF over to pure synthetic. I have been warned that it is difficult to remove all the existing ATF from the torque converter, and that I may have it diluted somewhat by the old fliud. The dealer of course wants $200 to do a normal replacement- which doesn't usually empty the torque converter. My local shop will do it for $30 plus fluid. This is my first car with an automatic, so I am not too familiar with ATF quirks. Has anyone else switched over to pure synthetic, and are there any major issues to be concerned with?
#733 of 1402 Re: Oil light,brake light and ABS light on at the same time why? [timbo6]
Apr 30, 2006 (11:55 am)
If the PRNDL switch is bad (they now call it the multifunction switch)the auto will exhibit the conditions that you state. This is a simple job for the service department to perform.
#734 of 1402 Oil Change
Apr 30, 2006 (6:37 pm)
Can anyone give me detailed instructions for an oil change, including dropping the belly pan to get to the drain plug as well as filter on a 2001 A6 2.7T. Just got done with 4/50K all inclusive maintanence... Please respond if you've actually done this your self- if you haven't no worries. I'd like to do this, but wanted to know what I was getting into. I have changed the oil on my Acura CL-just read that it was a pain to get the belly pan on the A6 removed.
#735 of 1402 Re: Oil Change [aka1]
May 02, 2006 (4:12 pm)
I'll be looking forward to that response, too. My guess is it will include putting the car up on a lift.
#736 of 1402 Re: A6 Blinker Problem [danal]
May 03, 2006 (6:38 am)
You probably have received your answer allready but if your A6 is like mine, the blinker relay is in the hazard switch. You have to take a puddy knife and "carefully" pry of the trim piece around the air ducts and hazard switch and then take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull HARD on the hazard switch and it will come out. Then it is merely unplugging the old and plugging in the new. Push the new unit back into the dash. When replacing the trim piece, make sure you do the top first because it has to get under the hard rubber dash overhang. Be careful because the clips on the trim piece can break easily. Hope this helps
#738 of 1402 A6 Drivers window sticking
May 03, 2006 (2:29 pm)
I have 2000 A6 2.7T...several times recently (randomly!) the drivers window has been stuck in the down position or halfway open, with no response from the controls. Any similar problems and resolutions would be greatly appreciated
#739 of 1402 Re: A6 Drivers window sticking [audia6winprob]
May 03, 2006 (4:07 pm)
I've had the same problem with my 2001. First on the passenger side and then on the driver side. I had a cracked nylon rail - the thingy the widow rides up and down in. The cracked rail was binding the window and it wouldn't close without a push. The last time was out of warranty and I had it fixed at the dealer - $268.
#740 of 1402 Re: A6 Drivers window sticking [kirby2010]
May 04, 2006 (5:46 am)
I had similar issues with my BMW. Window regulators failed due to the glass sticking to the rubber seal around the windows on hot days.