Last post on May 13, 2013 at 11:21 AM
You are in the Audi A6
What is this discussion about?
Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon
#1394 of 1402 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Check Engine Light
Feb 16, 2013 (5:12 pm)
My check engine light came on. The audi service said it most likely needs a new manifold blower. I don't know what it is, but yet more $$$ for repairs.
#1395 of 1402 Check Engine Light
Feb 17, 2013 (7:34 am)
You need to recheck your vehicle configuration:IE, since 2006 there have only been two engines
for the A6 both of which are Gasoline powered. One was 4.2 FSI the other a 3.2 Ltr.V6 FSI
neither of which has a Turbocharged Manifold/Blower. The only other Engine relates to the S6
a V10 550HP +.
If you want help you need to provide specific Model information which will assist anyone who answers your question. If you have not already had a Diagnostic Error code read out done
that is your first step. It will tell you and the Dealer Service Representative which engine and exhaust system components may have an error related to the "Engine Light".
Re-Post your question with corrected information.
#1396 of 1402 Re: 2012 A6 A7 Brake Noise [jkloss]
Feb 17, 2013 (8:05 am)
Hi jkloss ! If you have not already done so you need to get an error code reading from the dealer specifically for the brake components which are electronically monitored. Don't even think about cutting open a Control Unit (ECU) it will end up costing more than the brake repairs.
If your a high mileage driver:IE, say! 60k to 80k/Yr. on a 2012 car you may need brake pads rotors or both, in the front.
Brake pads will only provide a warning light if the Pads are equipped with an electronic cable and sensor imbedded in the Pad. Rotors will need to be replaced if they have deep scaring/groves or the Total thickness is less than 12 millimeters.
By the way I see you indicated two different models; which is it?(A6 or A7) or do you have two cars?
Bottom line is Brakes fall under "Normal wear items" and unless there is Defect in the brake system, warranty will not cover this
PS:On my A6 3.2 V6 2005
I change front and rear brake pads and rotors around 70Kilometers and went with Continental/ATE Ceramic Pads and matching rotors. The cost was
marginally more than standard Pad and rotors but improved the braking characteristic. Additionally they produce fare less brake dust so I saved money not having to buy Aluminum wheel cleaner.
Hope this helps.
#1397 of 1402 Re: Luv my '07,A6 4.2, but... [sborno]
Feb 17, 2013 (9:29 am)
I found my chart on Auto depreciation over time and what happens from cost point of view. This is a compilation of the big picture about 'depreciation compared to repair cost". Keeping in mind this would vary depending on brand and model of car as it relates to demand and repairs if regular service is being performed etc. This is not my study but from a "Auto Magazine.
1. At two Years of ownership repair cost are approximately 45%
at four years 170%. At just over 5 years of owning repair cost have risen to 253%, Ouuch.
2. On the other side of this graph is depreciation over time:
1. At 1 year -30%, at 4 years -45% and at 5 years -58% increase in repair costs.
These are to opposing graph lines;one (Repair Cost) going up, the other (Depreciation going Down).
Both of these lines cross at 5 years (+/-). So! Here's my take!
If ! at any intersect of the two lines, starting at 2years, you add the (cost of repair) + (Value depreciation)+(Insurance,Annual Taxes,fuel cost) it does not take 5 years for the vehicle to have zero value. But you could just go to "The Automobile Club" then you'd have a reliable independent evaluation.
The second equally important factor which most of us,myself included, use when buying a car:
The emotional factor. Most people buy cars for it's creature comforts not for it's reliability, why because it's easier to push a button than figure all this other stuff out.
So I would join the opinion of Mr. Shiftright in saying, If you're going to buy read the reports on cars until you find the one that's most reliable.
In order of priority: Of course if Money is no Object, then this is all theoretical.
1. Service Reliability.
2. Fuel Economy (Gas prices are not going down)
3. Your Price bracket
3. Practicality (Don't overbuy)
4. Don't buy New (Certified pre-owned or Demo)
5. Is electric or Hybrid an option (Local Climate)
6. Depreciation is coming regardless. Finally the average person drives,on average/day within 50 miles/day of home.
7. Bells and whistles.
Hope you find something here that's useful.
#1398 of 1402 Prepaid Maintenance
Apr 06, 2013 (5:51 am)
I have ordered a new A6, and when it comes in I know I need to determine if I want the Prepaid Maintenance. Has anyone had experience with this that they could share with me?
#1399 of 1402 Re: Prepaid Maintenance [hilltop3]
Apr 07, 2013 (4:36 am)
Ohhhh, Prepaid Maintenance.
1. You got to read the fine print on those type offerings.
Why because the difference between maintenance and Warranty item repair along with "The Time Factor", what items are in need of repair/service will determine who pays what, when and under what conditions.
2. If your financing you generally would not want the Prepaid maintenance or financing insurance to be part of the sales contract as it increase your monthly payment. Both Finance Insurance and Prepaid Maintenance insurance are generally contracts with "Third Party Companies". They determine how much, under what conditions those claims for payment will be accepted. The dealership may or may-not be the middle man between the vehicle owner (You) and the insurance provider.
3. Both of these types of "Additional Coverage" items are during the Warranty period which basically means you maybe paying for coverage you already have under the Manufactures Warranty.
4. In particular the Maintenance schedule and it's related conditions will determine if you get Warranty coverage.
5. Regular scheduled maintenance is for normal wear-and-tear items;ie, Brake pads & rotors, oil, air & filter, belts and fluids changes.
In Europe Audi has two types of Service schedules
The first is yearly the second is "Long Life" every two years.
The long life service requires a different Motor Oil based on Audi Standards;ie, Synthetic 100% which cost more than a standard 10/40W oil.
6. Depending which state you live in, current laws regarding "Who does repair work" may allow for you to go to a "State certified Service center" for repair and service. This is now the case in Germany as the customers were being charged much higher prices at the Dealers Service facilities but warranties were not being honored because service was not performed by an Audi Service Center.
Secondly! A Certified None dealership service center does not necessarily mean a voided warranty with the Manufacture if the law provides guidance on this issue. Additionally there are federal agencies which provide guidance and services on these type issues.
7. The last point on this is the Extended Vehicle Protection Coverage which Audi/VW offer, In the USA I don't know but Germany Yes.
Again this is an additional coverage which overlaps the Mfg's Warranty and is not cheap. I had this protection on my Audi A6 purchased used from an Audi Dealer, It had only 35000 miles when purchased. The shocker came when I wanted to renew that coverage, they wanted 500 Euro/Approximately $750 to extend it for one year.
Of course the Maintenance question is always tied in to your driving habits, willingness to maintain the vehicle and how long your going to drive this vehicle. Generally speaking the Audi is a Solid reliable vehicle, but Cars being what they are, they will have there moments.
In closing! I spent ten years as a Automotive service adviser, Mercedes, Porsche, Toyota, Fiat, Volvo and spent a number of years in retail.
Let me just say! If I went to an investment firm or bank to invest money and they asked me to pay them upfront for there service/performance I would think real hard before paying them. Why Because there is usually a disclaimer at the bottom of every contract stating " The statements enclosed herein are base on past market indicators/performance and do not imply or guarantee positive future postive performance." or words to that effect.
The Best Car Purchase/buyer is a "Well Informed Buyer".
I love my Audi, I hope you will feel the Same.
#1400 of 1402 Re: Prepaid Maintenance [jkaudia6]
Apr 07, 2013 (6:32 am)
Thank you for all that wonderful information. A lot of food for thought, which will require additional research. I feel the 2012 A6 would be a good indicator for me, and maybe others are out there and can share their experiences Over the last year. I will look into the certified places of repair, and dig deeper into the terms of agreement for these various add ons. Will not roll into the lease- no way. I plan to drive this car fairly aggressively, but have always taken care of the cars we have.
Appreciate the help and direction you've provided!
#1401 of 1402 Re: 2012 A6 A7 Brake Noise [jkloss]
May 13, 2013 (7:59 am)
YES! I took our brand new 2013 A6 to the dealer on this issue. Ours happens when you come to a full stop. It is a brakes grabbing type of sound, and reoccurs as you release the brake, the same kinda sound you would get using throttle and brakes at the same time. Quite annoying. Is yours sorted? Audi said there is no issue.
#1402 of 1402 Re: 2012 A6 A7 Brake Noise [anon3000]
May 13, 2013 (11:21 am)
Hi anon3000 and jkloss!
Here is a link to Audi USA web page. In the middle of the screen enter your VIN number and click the search button. If there is a "Recall on your model" it should show up on this page. If one appears, print it out take it to your Audi Dealer and show them the Response from Audi USA.
http://www.audiusa.com/us/brand/en/owners/audi_service/recalls_campaigns/vin_loo- - kup.html">link title
Now if that link does not provide any recall information referencing your specific problem/model Audi and the noise continues a letter to Audi USA is an alternative.
I will take a stab in the dark regarding your Noise but from where I am sitting it's a Stab in the dark:
a. If the noise is coming from the front have the Front brake pads removed
and re-lubricate with Copper Brake paste on the reverse side of the pad which the Brake Caliper presses against.
B. Also have the Inside and outside surface of the Brake Rotors checked for Unusual wear pattern;ie, groves or deep scratches.
C. As you've indicated "The noise also occurs when releasing the brake pedal". Ah You may very well have a Vacuum leak in the system which supports the braking system;ie, Similar to A Grown type sound.
D. If this noise happens during hard braking, such as an emergency stop, there maybe a problem with the ABS (Anti Blocking System) which regulates brake pressure under such conditions.
E. IF you have not already done so I would suggest you have the dealer do a read out of the ECU, "Central Control Unit" for error codes. If this noise is related to an electronically controlled System and a malfunction occurrence it produced an error code. This code is registered and maintained in the ECU until cleared by the dealer.
A final note: Brakes should never make any noise in particular Audi Brakes.
Hope this has been of additional help.