Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 2:25 PM
You are in the Audi A6
What is this discussion about?
Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon
#1388 of 1407 Re: 2006 Audi A6 95,000 Service [jwrednw]
Oct 06, 2012 (12:18 am)
Ouch! In your service book 95k should be a major service, Oil, filter, spark plugs,
Brake pad check, air filter etc. , but you did not mention any of those?
Did you have a oil leak or knocking noise, vibration from the front suspension?
More to the point, ref. your question!
If you like or want another Luxury car then you should understand that service and repair are priced accordingly, in particular when you go to a dealer for service. Second if this car is business related you may want to consider leasing.
If it is private use only and your not a "do it yourself" repair type an independent garage in your area, that know your car, is a better choice.
Last but not least! Do research to find the cars which have a low level of repair
Using reputable testing sources,ie; Edmunds, Car & Driver, Gov't agencies, etc.
There is an old saying in the sales business, " Sell the sizzle, not the steak".
Good luck with your next choice
#1389 of 1407 Luv my '07,A6 4.2, but...
Oct 17, 2012 (4:40 am)
I'm an audi guy. I am on my third one, and the only one which has had major problems. First was a 98 A4 2.8 6sp sport, then upgraded to a '00 A6 2.7T, 6sp with sport, had it until totalled, Cats needed to be replaced but that's all, and still drove great til the end. Now, my '07 A6 4.2, w/sport, has had substantial problems. I bought it used 2.5 years ago with 45K, now has 95K. It started 85K, about 6 months ago, and seems t have no end in site, although ALL the repairs have been covered under my CPO, and they've given me a vehicle every time. I've had a Q7, Q5, A8, Camry Hybrid, and regular Camry.
Here's the details on the repairs: It started with check engine light, which led to a month long repair, starting with sensors, some type of engine component replacement, (not the whole engine obviously), and ended with the main computer being replaced. Then it was the A/C, it took the dealer 3X to figure out that the condenser needed to be replaced, which was done and solved the problem. Then, another check engine lite resulted in the high pressure fuel pumps, and both banks of fuel injector were replaced, (2nd time, they were replaced with the first major repair). I thought that'd be it for awhile, but then had a evap leak.
This happened out of warrantee, but I called audiusa, and they actually covered the repair in good faith, 'one last time.', the check engine went on the next day?, the dealer said an additional vac line would be repaired under warrantee, but that the intake manifold would need to be replaced, and would not be covered. I hit the roof, called audi, only to have the service manager call the next day, to say it wasn't the intake manifold, that they'd put their best tech on it, (top 5 in the country supposedly), and would let me know. They found a faulty purge valve, replaced it and did NOT charge me anything. The even replaced the drive window controls, which I had mentioned during the warrantee, but could not be reproduced at the time. So, this group one audi dealer in new england has problems diagnosing things, but in the end they did the right thing, as did audi.
I have to be honest, although it's been aggravating, it's been a relatively reasonable process.
Now, what? do i keep her, or move on?, even if she needs some repairs, its certainly cheaper than replacing. Although, I absolutely love the new A6, and it's innovation option, and much better mileage. Bigger picture, is I always keep'm long time, was offered 12-13K, from dealers, could probably sell'r myself and get 16K, have seen some pre-owned 12s for almost 20% of sticker and certified, these are loaded vehicles.
Here's the rest of the picture: Our family of three drivers, (soon to be four) has an aging fleet!
Wife drives an 04 Sienna, w/150K luvs it and will keep it for now, she takes her bike to work, we utilize the roominess for 7 passengers, and are kids have cut thier teeth on it. My son (almost 18) now drives a 01 infiniti I30, w/50K, got a great deal, runs great aswell. my daughter(16) will drive the van, (like my son did) for the first couple of months, and i will find something for her. While she's driving the van come February, my wife will drive the audi, and I will drive my 'toy.' Which is a PUFF, '01 bmw M3 conv, with hardtop/73K. So, I'm ok with the shuffle, and we could do nothing until spring or even next winter..., but I'm always looking, u know how we get the itch.
btw way my next 'dream car", would be a used 11 cayenne, (properly equiped), of the next Q7, which wont b out for a year or so. that's the BIG picture, i went from boston to NJ for this a6, (it had everything i was looking for), and i don't mind the process of hunting/waiting for the right car.
We bought the sienna new, cause it was only available new, and it had sooo many upgraded features to the old caravan, and we knew we'd keep it a loooong time.
But what now?, if the tranny, of some electronics go, it will devalue my A6 heavily, but repairing would still be cheaper than replacement, and it really is a family car, for now.
I'm inclined to be patient, however tough that is, because all the newer cars i want will certainly depreciate faster than my '07, but it's a bit risky
So sorry for the lenghthy post, but there's a lot of history/info here.
Any thoughts, suggestions or comments are appreciated, from this great forum for help!!
#1390 of 1407 Re: Luv my '07,A6 4.2, but... [sborno]
Oct 17, 2012 (5:02 am)
Before you run out to buy this "wonderful" dream cayenne, read what consumer reports has to say about it. You could go form bad to worse.
And FYI a new transmission will cost you about $6000
Another happy audi owner.
#1391 of 1407 2012 A6 A7 Brake Noise
Oct 25, 2012 (12:52 pm)
Has anyone experienced a "growling" brake noise when applying the brakes slowly such as in parking? Or has anyone heard a strange brake noise When slowly releasing the brake pedal?
#1392 of 1407 Re: ABS/BRake warning light goes in while driving [jim198]
Feb 01, 2013 (6:20 am)
I see you got the same problem like me, but almost 5 years earlier.
Did you get any kind of helping answer on this ?
#1393 of 1407 Re: ABS/BRake warning light goes in while driving [houbi]
Feb 01, 2013 (3:45 pm)
hi p[rpgressed this upto cutting open abs control unit email me if want to know results plus when left for an hour does problem go away for short drive only ttp come on again zakpeg hotmail.com
#1394 of 1407 2006 Audi A6 3.2 Check Engine Light
Feb 16, 2013 (4:12 pm)
My check engine light came on. The audi service said it most likely needs a new manifold blower. I don't know what it is, but yet more $$$ for repairs.
#1395 of 1407 Check Engine Light
Feb 17, 2013 (6:34 am)
You need to recheck your vehicle configuration:IE, since 2006 there have only been two engines
for the A6 both of which are Gasoline powered. One was 4.2 FSI the other a 3.2 Ltr.V6 FSI
neither of which has a Turbocharged Manifold/Blower. The only other Engine relates to the S6
a V10 550HP +.
If you want help you need to provide specific Model information which will assist anyone who answers your question. If you have not already had a Diagnostic Error code read out done
that is your first step. It will tell you and the Dealer Service Representative which engine and exhaust system components may have an error related to the "Engine Light".
Re-Post your question with corrected information.
#1396 of 1407 Re: 2012 A6 A7 Brake Noise [jkloss]
Feb 17, 2013 (7:05 am)
Hi jkloss ! If you have not already done so you need to get an error code reading from the dealer specifically for the brake components which are electronically monitored. Don't even think about cutting open a Control Unit (ECU) it will end up costing more than the brake repairs.
If your a high mileage driver:IE, say! 60k to 80k/Yr. on a 2012 car you may need brake pads rotors or both, in the front.
Brake pads will only provide a warning light if the Pads are equipped with an electronic cable and sensor imbedded in the Pad. Rotors will need to be replaced if they have deep scaring/groves or the Total thickness is less than 12 millimeters.
By the way I see you indicated two different models; which is it?(A6 or A7) or do you have two cars?
Bottom line is Brakes fall under "Normal wear items" and unless there is Defect in the brake system, warranty will not cover this
PS:On my A6 3.2 V6 2005
I change front and rear brake pads and rotors around 70Kilometers and went with Continental/ATE Ceramic Pads and matching rotors. The cost was
marginally more than standard Pad and rotors but improved the braking characteristic. Additionally they produce fare less brake dust so I saved money not having to buy Aluminum wheel cleaner.
Hope this helps.
#1397 of 1407 Re: Luv my '07,A6 4.2, but... [sborno]
Feb 17, 2013 (8:29 am)
I found my chart on Auto depreciation over time and what happens from cost point of view. This is a compilation of the big picture about 'depreciation compared to repair cost". Keeping in mind this would vary depending on brand and model of car as it relates to demand and repairs if regular service is being performed etc. This is not my study but from a "Auto Magazine.
1. At two Years of ownership repair cost are approximately 45%
at four years 170%. At just over 5 years of owning repair cost have risen to 253%, Ouuch.
2. On the other side of this graph is depreciation over time:
1. At 1 year -30%, at 4 years -45% and at 5 years -58% increase in repair costs.
These are to opposing graph lines;one (Repair Cost) going up, the other (Depreciation going Down).
Both of these lines cross at 5 years (+/-). So! Here's my take!
If ! at any intersect of the two lines, starting at 2years, you add the (cost of repair) + (Value depreciation)+(Insurance,Annual Taxes,fuel cost) it does not take 5 years for the vehicle to have zero value. But you could just go to "The Automobile Club" then you'd have a reliable independent evaluation.
The second equally important factor which most of us,myself included, use when buying a car:
The emotional factor. Most people buy cars for it's creature comforts not for it's reliability, why because it's easier to push a button than figure all this other stuff out.
So I would join the opinion of Mr. Shiftright in saying, If you're going to buy read the reports on cars until you find the one that's most reliable.
In order of priority: Of course if Money is no Object, then this is all theoretical.
1. Service Reliability.
2. Fuel Economy (Gas prices are not going down)
3. Your Price bracket
3. Practicality (Don't overbuy)
4. Don't buy New (Certified pre-owned or Demo)
5. Is electric or Hybrid an option (Local Climate)
6. Depreciation is coming regardless. Finally the average person drives,on average/day within 50 miles/day of home.
7. Bells and whistles.
Hope you find something here that's useful.