Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 2:25 PM
You are in the Audi A6
What is this discussion about?
Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon
#1212 of 1407 Re: 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air [qfixer]
Dec 08, 2009 (1:28 pm)
Heating problems, I had the same thing happen to me on my previous ride a BMW
520i 1990 with 200,000 + Kilometers.
I'm going to assume all of your heating vents are functional and you don't have any moisture under the dash on the floor area from a leaking Heater radiator or control value if it's under the dash.
a.The first thing to check is the water/coolant level in the cooling system. If you have coolant/antifreeze use that or buy some. (Be Careful, if the engine is Operating temp it's HOTHOT WATER, Wear Gloves and don't stand directly over the radiator when adding coolant/water.
b. There are two radiator hosed on your engine one for returning the water from the engine (at the Top of the radiator) after it's made it's way through the engine and heating system.
The other hose should be at the bottom which then feeds the cooled water back in to the engine to maintain the correct operating temperature for the engine.
What your look for are the following symptoms after the engine has been running long enough to reach what should be normal operating temp as indicated by the Water Temp gauge on the Instrument cluster.
a. First Make sure that there are no water leaks from any of the radiator or heating hoses, the engine (around the Cylinder head gasket area) or the radiator. This includes removing the Oil filler cap and the Dip Stick to see if it has a Milky brown film on either part which would indicate moisture in the engine.
Note: If you find Milky/coffee brown film on either of those, and the engine is running
turn it off, wait for it to cool down then remove and mark each spark plug according to the cylinder it came from. What your looking for is an abnormal coloration of the electrode (The Ceramic tip), Go to this Web Page on the Net and Read About Spark plugs and blown head gaskets. http://www/thecarbible.com
b. Make sure that the over flow system is in operational condition:ie, radiator cap gasket is not leaking & the pressure re-leaf value in the cap is functioning. Also that the overflow tank is sealed, and that the cooling system has sufficient water/coolant, fill to the mark on the tank. The coolant should be about 50% of the total volume of the coolant system capacity;ie, 5 gal.capacity should have 2.5 gals. of coolant.
Coolant or Antifreeze as it's most often referred to is the stabilizer of the water temperature in the engine. It keeps the water within a predetermined operational temp.range. Look to your Operational manual for the correct capacity.
c. The heater hoses which feed the heating system are most always smaller in size
having an outside diameter of about 1inch. They are connected to fittings on the firewall behind the engine and run from there to the engine block and to a "Heater Control Valve" which regulates the water flow based on heater control settings on the dash.Note: The heater control valve will either be Mechanical or Electromechanical depending on whether or not you have electrically control regulators for heating on the dash (The Knobs) heating/Air conditioning system. If there are electrical wires connected to the heater control value it's electro-mechanical.
d. Once you've determined the cooling system is sealed, no leaks anywhere, and there is sufficient water/coolant the next step is:
While the engine is running, press the Lower Radiator hose with your hand and note two things.(CAREFUL for the FAN Blades ROTATING)
1. Does the hose feel soft like it has little or no water in it ??????
2. Is it COOL to the touch?????????????????????
Note: If one or both of these conditions exist then I would say your Water Thermostat is not functioning correctly;ie, not opening or closing allowing the water to follow based on it's predetermined temp.range. This may also mean AIR in the System which prevents the Heater in the Car from reaching normal operation temp's.
Note: If your Thermostat is bad then have it replaced and if you have high mileage on your car and have never had the water pump replace, now is the time because it
most always near the Thermostat.
e. Finally ! If things improve after adding water but normal operational temps for the heating system are not totally reached then do this:
In rapid succession turn the HEAT control knob to FULL ON and OFF several times, if you the heater starts putting out more heat after this then your control knobs are partially controlling the heater control valve. There is most likely a Printed Circuit board (PCB) on the back side of the control knob area which sends electical impulses to the Hearter control valve and they are not working correctly.
This could be in addition to bad Thermostat and would require replacement or repair. Repair if you can find a Service which repairs PCB's, Look to the Net for
this type of service, your dealer will always just replace the part, they don't repair parts on cars anymore.
Well Gfixer,, I'm sorry this had to be so long but a simply question does not mean a simply answer as you can see.
I may have forgotten something and I'm sure after you've check all these things out
you may even have a second question
#1213 of 1407 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [jkaudia6]
Dec 09, 2009 (10:25 am)
I appreciate the help and the words of encouragement. Unfortunately it may be a few days before I can get under the hood 'cuz we just had a snowstorm and I can only work outside. I'll let you know how I make out when I can. In the mean time I'm gonna check out the online stuff you let me know about. I'm pretty patient, but this car is for my wife to drive and it seems that when the holidays come, the car decides to take a vacation. So time is usually of the essence, but I'm also annoyed 'cuz I put a bunch of $$ and time into this car and I think it's a great car and has plenty of life left in it. I plan to get the car up to snuff, but just wish it wouldn't go bad when we really need it and the cash flow is low. I'll keep you posted.
#1214 of 1407 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [chandler661]
Dec 09, 2009 (11:33 am)
Ya your "Snow Storm hit the European news this morning on CNN, bad timing to say the least. No fun working on a car outside, been there, done that.
A tip for you during the repair time. WAECO accessorizes company has a slip over Electric seat heater that plugs in to the Cigarette lighter, has a two position switch and an overload circuit built-in. That would be a perfect gift for the wife while the heaters not working and the Snow is falling, cost about 30 Euro here, that's about twenty bucks. Don't forget the Big Red Ribbon. I put one in the Father-in Laws car about a month ago, not for him, for my Mother-in Law.
Nothing like a bit of pressure during the Holidays.
Hang tough, Chandler:
Best regards to you and the family.
Have a great Christmas.
#1215 of 1407 Re: 2000 Audi A6 Quattro [alexyaz]
Dec 09, 2009 (3:14 pm)
I got it fixed with out spending a dime on it. It was just lubricant to be sprayed on the rubber itself and everything is done!
#1216 of 1407 Re: 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air [jkaudia6]
Dec 10, 2009 (8:28 am)
Thanks JKAudiA6. I am fairly sure that the coolant system has no leak but I will follow your directions and check it to make sure. The engine temperature gauge in the dash reaches operating temperature and stay in the normal range in the middle section which it has always done. This A6 has dual digital heater controls for driver and passenger. These are operated by + or - and you can set the desired temperature to what either person wants on a small LCD pannel next to them. I beleive that the problem is in the electronic control system where the signal for heater control valve is sent. I assume that the passenger and driver side controls have their own thermostats to set the desired temperature. Do you know where these thermostats are located? is it possible for these to go bad? Although since there are two of them in this car, I doubt that they both went bad together so I think your suggestion of bad signal to heater control vave is a good one and I will follow up on that later today.
#1217 of 1407 Re: 2000 Audi A6 Quattro [abniz]
Dec 11, 2009 (5:04 pm)
Wow thats great. mine just fixed itself. I haven't drove the car for a month and when I went back the windows worked.
#1218 of 1407 Re: 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air [qfixer]
Dec 12, 2009 (1:13 am)
Sorry, I don't know where the Heater control values are, hopefully within reach.
Also check the Fuse listing in your manual if you have one, see if those heater controls are fused, that would be a really easy fix.
Your heater controls are those on my 2005 model, it could be that they are the same
and have not changed since 2003, but don't know.
#1219 of 1407 Re: 2000 Audi A6 Quattro [alexyaz]
Dec 12, 2009 (1:21 am)
Been following your post for a few days.
Windows are a pain especially when it's raining.
I use Silicon Spray which has a very light sewing machine type oil
in it for all rubber seals on my car. In my area it's cheaper than Rubber
treatments and last longer, in addition to making the seals black.
TIP: Don't get it on the windows it smears.
I also check different departments when looking for common items like window spray
silicon spray....... Sometimes you'll find that those items in the Automotive department have higher prices. Window spray or silicon spray by any other name is still just that a spray.
#1220 of 1407 1996 Audi A4 2.8 Purchase
Dec 23, 2009 (9:43 am)
Hey all... I'm considering purchasing a 1996 Audi A4 2.8 - any tips on what to ask or look for? The car is being sold through a second hand dealer, not an Audi dealer. I'm going to check it out today, online it looks clean. I've never owned an Audi, and am getting a lot of mixed reviews about them. I understand the maintenance is relatively expensive, but if I can get a reliable comfortable car I am ok with that. I just wrecked my car and had too much negative equity to carry over into another loan, so I'm opting to pay cash for something older until I can pay off the negative equity on my loan. Any tips would be extremely appreciated.. Also here is the link to the car should anyone want to take a peek... Thanks
#1221 of 1407 Re: 1996 Audi A4 2.8 Purchase [ramz05]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Dec 23, 2009 (12:28 pm)
I certainly wouldn't buy it without having an Audi specialist check it out top to bottom. Repairs are very expensive on this car, should something serious go wrong.
Nice driving cars, could use more power. Specific issues include automatic transmission and HVAC controls.