Last post on Dec 02, 2013 at 2:25 PM
You are in the Audi A6
What is this discussion about?
Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon
#1208 of 1407 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [chandler661]
Dec 07, 2009 (11:45 am)
Well at least we can say with reasonable certainty what it is not.
I did not mention this before but I am not an Electrical Genie. If I take a cable from it's connector I can remember where it was and put it back.
As for the "Engine Oil Pressure light" and a related sensor, it could be wired in such a way that when the oil pressure goes below a certain level it would shut the motor down. I don't know if the S6 Audi has such a sensor/switch wired that way or not. Actually I don't think they would wire a switch in that way for a street car. Have you ever tried to steer a car with power steering when the engine suddenly dies (All but impossible). It may be located on or near the base of the Oil canister mounting bracket, Dip Stick or Oil Pan.
It sounds to me like your in to working on your own vehicle but at some point money will have to be spent. For that reason I would strongly recommend getting reliable info from Audi. For your problem there are several ways to go with this line of thought.
a. There is an Audi Web Page called "ERWIN.COM" for Audi USA. They have all the Documents, service INFO and Tool recommendation one needs to do self repair. The Hourly Flat rate as I recall is $21.00, you buy what you need, Manuals, diagrams, tools and research your problem in advance. How it all works is on the web page.
b. Or ! Get an Error Code read out from the on board computers *ECU's in your car from a dealer\service facility. I have know Idea what that cost.
c. The other option is go to the Vag COM web page state side and look in to buying
a diagnostic software package and interface cable for your car.
Note: Depending on your skill level this may or may not be for you.
Should you decide this last option be advised that it's very easy to render your vehicle inoperative (Make a mistake).
As for the problem:
a. I'd do one last test on that Gear shift lever when it's in the "PARK POSITION"
Wiggle it to see if you can recreate the problem.
b. The sensors control several different areas of the engine operation:
1. Air Flow(Volume), Ignition spark, timing, Air, water, coolant and Ambient temperatures. All of this data is sent to one or more "Electronic Control Units"
(ECU) which is really a small specialized computer. In it's memory banks (Chips) are tables of control parameters for each given area, Air, fuel, temperatures, Spark and ignition. The most simple of all these are most likely the thermal type sensors
Hot/Cold, sends an electrical implus to the ECU which interprets the data received
looks a tablle of data and sends a message back to the control devices which provide the Air, Fuel, Ignition etc.
Note: If this data is not being interpreted correctly then an error code is generated and stored in the ECU for Service personnel to interpret with VAGCOM software.
The other posiblitiy is a "COLD Soldier Joint" in a Sending unit or ECU which most often is effected either by
1. Vibration or HOT & COLD Operational Temperature or Ambient Temp's.
Back in the 70's I had a Porsche 914 which would stop running while driving on the Freeway in Los Angeles.
One last note which I found refreshed what knowledge I do have.
The Web Page is called: THE CAR BIBLE Google it the author is very knowledgeable about how cars work.
As I'm sure you understand Chandler661 and as we confirmed earlier Electrical Stuff is tough.
Best Regard & Be patient.
#1209 of 1407 Re: Akebono Ceramic Pads [allmet33]
Dec 07, 2009 (11:57 am)
Thanks for the TIP on Ceramic Brake pads. I'd never really considered anything else.
Living in Germany, we have a whole different set of rules as it pertains to cars & Maintenance. But if they are approved OE perhaps I can use them here as well.
I'll dial in on the net and see.
#1210 of 1407 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air
Dec 07, 2009 (3:03 pm)
My 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air even when the engine is hot. The only way that I can get any warm air in the cabin is to set both thermostats to Hi, have the defrost on front window and have the heater in econ mode. Even then it only blows moderately warm air and not enough to heat the cabin. Any ideas on what is causing this?
#1211 of 1407 Re: Akebono Ceramic Pads [jkaudia6]
Dec 08, 2009 (11:33 am)
No problem...I can tell you that I used them on my '96 Camry (never changed the rotors) and the car had about 140k miles before it was totaled. I used them on my '02 Sonata and put over 100k miles on the original rotors before having to replace them due to warpage (installed custom wheels with no torque wrench), but the thickness of the rotors was not an issue. Currently, I've been using them on my '06 Azera with almost 80k miles and the original rotors as well. With around 300k miles of experience with ceramic pads...I feel comfortable recommending them. If you're a hard driver...then I would suggest swapping out the regular rotors with cross drilled slotted rotors so that the heat will dissipate much faster and fear of warpage to to extreme heat becomes less of an issue.
#1212 of 1407 Re: 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air [qfixer]
Dec 08, 2009 (1:28 pm)
Heating problems, I had the same thing happen to me on my previous ride a BMW
520i 1990 with 200,000 + Kilometers.
I'm going to assume all of your heating vents are functional and you don't have any moisture under the dash on the floor area from a leaking Heater radiator or control value if it's under the dash.
a.The first thing to check is the water/coolant level in the cooling system. If you have coolant/antifreeze use that or buy some. (Be Careful, if the engine is Operating temp it's HOTHOT WATER, Wear Gloves and don't stand directly over the radiator when adding coolant/water.
b. There are two radiator hosed on your engine one for returning the water from the engine (at the Top of the radiator) after it's made it's way through the engine and heating system.
The other hose should be at the bottom which then feeds the cooled water back in to the engine to maintain the correct operating temperature for the engine.
What your look for are the following symptoms after the engine has been running long enough to reach what should be normal operating temp as indicated by the Water Temp gauge on the Instrument cluster.
a. First Make sure that there are no water leaks from any of the radiator or heating hoses, the engine (around the Cylinder head gasket area) or the radiator. This includes removing the Oil filler cap and the Dip Stick to see if it has a Milky brown film on either part which would indicate moisture in the engine.
Note: If you find Milky/coffee brown film on either of those, and the engine is running
turn it off, wait for it to cool down then remove and mark each spark plug according to the cylinder it came from. What your looking for is an abnormal coloration of the electrode (The Ceramic tip), Go to this Web Page on the Net and Read About Spark plugs and blown head gaskets. http://www/thecarbible.com
b. Make sure that the over flow system is in operational condition:ie, radiator cap gasket is not leaking & the pressure re-leaf value in the cap is functioning. Also that the overflow tank is sealed, and that the cooling system has sufficient water/coolant, fill to the mark on the tank. The coolant should be about 50% of the total volume of the coolant system capacity;ie, 5 gal.capacity should have 2.5 gals. of coolant.
Coolant or Antifreeze as it's most often referred to is the stabilizer of the water temperature in the engine. It keeps the water within a predetermined operational temp.range. Look to your Operational manual for the correct capacity.
c. The heater hoses which feed the heating system are most always smaller in size
having an outside diameter of about 1inch. They are connected to fittings on the firewall behind the engine and run from there to the engine block and to a "Heater Control Valve" which regulates the water flow based on heater control settings on the dash.Note: The heater control valve will either be Mechanical or Electromechanical depending on whether or not you have electrically control regulators for heating on the dash (The Knobs) heating/Air conditioning system. If there are electrical wires connected to the heater control value it's electro-mechanical.
d. Once you've determined the cooling system is sealed, no leaks anywhere, and there is sufficient water/coolant the next step is:
While the engine is running, press the Lower Radiator hose with your hand and note two things.(CAREFUL for the FAN Blades ROTATING)
1. Does the hose feel soft like it has little or no water in it ??????
2. Is it COOL to the touch?????????????????????
Note: If one or both of these conditions exist then I would say your Water Thermostat is not functioning correctly;ie, not opening or closing allowing the water to follow based on it's predetermined temp.range. This may also mean AIR in the System which prevents the Heater in the Car from reaching normal operation temp's.
Note: If your Thermostat is bad then have it replaced and if you have high mileage on your car and have never had the water pump replace, now is the time because it
most always near the Thermostat.
e. Finally ! If things improve after adding water but normal operational temps for the heating system are not totally reached then do this:
In rapid succession turn the HEAT control knob to FULL ON and OFF several times, if you the heater starts putting out more heat after this then your control knobs are partially controlling the heater control valve. There is most likely a Printed Circuit board (PCB) on the back side of the control knob area which sends electical impulses to the Hearter control valve and they are not working correctly.
This could be in addition to bad Thermostat and would require replacement or repair. Repair if you can find a Service which repairs PCB's, Look to the Net for
this type of service, your dealer will always just replace the part, they don't repair parts on cars anymore.
Well Gfixer,, I'm sorry this had to be so long but a simply question does not mean a simply answer as you can see.
I may have forgotten something and I'm sure after you've check all these things out
you may even have a second question
#1213 of 1407 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [jkaudia6]
Dec 09, 2009 (10:25 am)
I appreciate the help and the words of encouragement. Unfortunately it may be a few days before I can get under the hood 'cuz we just had a snowstorm and I can only work outside. I'll let you know how I make out when I can. In the mean time I'm gonna check out the online stuff you let me know about. I'm pretty patient, but this car is for my wife to drive and it seems that when the holidays come, the car decides to take a vacation. So time is usually of the essence, but I'm also annoyed 'cuz I put a bunch of $$ and time into this car and I think it's a great car and has plenty of life left in it. I plan to get the car up to snuff, but just wish it wouldn't go bad when we really need it and the cash flow is low. I'll keep you posted.
#1214 of 1407 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [chandler661]
Dec 09, 2009 (11:33 am)
Ya your "Snow Storm hit the European news this morning on CNN, bad timing to say the least. No fun working on a car outside, been there, done that.
A tip for you during the repair time. WAECO accessorizes company has a slip over Electric seat heater that plugs in to the Cigarette lighter, has a two position switch and an overload circuit built-in. That would be a perfect gift for the wife while the heaters not working and the Snow is falling, cost about 30 Euro here, that's about twenty bucks. Don't forget the Big Red Ribbon. I put one in the Father-in Laws car about a month ago, not for him, for my Mother-in Law.
Nothing like a bit of pressure during the Holidays.
Hang tough, Chandler:
Best regards to you and the family.
Have a great Christmas.
#1215 of 1407 Re: 2000 Audi A6 Quattro [alexyaz]
Dec 09, 2009 (3:14 pm)
I got it fixed with out spending a dime on it. It was just lubricant to be sprayed on the rubber itself and everything is done!
#1216 of 1407 Re: 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air [jkaudia6]
Dec 10, 2009 (8:28 am)
Thanks JKAudiA6. I am fairly sure that the coolant system has no leak but I will follow your directions and check it to make sure. The engine temperature gauge in the dash reaches operating temperature and stay in the normal range in the middle section which it has always done. This A6 has dual digital heater controls for driver and passenger. These are operated by + or - and you can set the desired temperature to what either person wants on a small LCD pannel next to them. I beleive that the problem is in the electronic control system where the signal for heater control valve is sent. I assume that the passenger and driver side controls have their own thermostats to set the desired temperature. Do you know where these thermostats are located? is it possible for these to go bad? Although since there are two of them in this car, I doubt that they both went bad together so I think your suggestion of bad signal to heater control vave is a good one and I will follow up on that later today.
#1217 of 1407 Re: 2000 Audi A6 Quattro [abniz]
Dec 11, 2009 (5:04 pm)
Wow thats great. mine just fixed itself. I haven't drove the car for a month and when I went back the windows worked.