Last post on May 13, 2013 at 11:21 AM
You are in the Audi A6
What is this discussion about?
Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon
#1201 of 1402 Re: Ref: Brakes, Japanese and Korean Cars [allmet33]
Nov 28, 2009 (7:07 am)
Did I mention early on in our first Info exchange that, in my earlier life, I worked as a service adviser?
I'm going to keep this short.
A. the Audi (July 2004 or later models) A6 3.2 l Quattro does not have a timing belt, it's chain driven between the Crank and Camshafts.
b.As for Oil changes, don't use any oil other than what VW/Audi recommend.
The current standard is 502 or higher Synthetic only. As for how often the oil is changed has two approaches.I'm paraphrasing here:
1. Either Annual or every XX k miles, which ever comes first, or
2. depending on your chosen guarantee at time of purchase. Go to the Audi web page USA or your operation manual on that.
When you do get around to reading from the "CAR Bible" web page they put together a very informative section on Lubricants, and Oil change intervals.
Bottom line is VW/Audi MAY NOT cover major component replacement if the Oil
changes and servicing were not done in accordance with Mfg's guidelines. That includes the type of oil used.
You must certainly know this but in case you don't here's my feed on Dealer and Independent Automotive shops:
a. The service department is the primary source of income, especially during poor sales periods.
b. The Service advisors, Technicians and parts guys are all on a Base salary plus
c. The choice between Dealer based service and Independent is a tough call.
If you can find an independent that has the necessary diagnostic equipment and software/Training to service your A6 it may or may not be less expensive.
It will certainly will void any Mfg's Warranty.
I guess this is really the main point:
a. In Europe the failure rate for Dealer based service departments is very high as surveyed by ADAC which is the European equivalent of AAA in the States.
What this means for everyone driving a car is "If you are not informed about servicing your vehicle the chances are you'll pay for something you did not need.
You know the old saying:
Have a game plan before you jump in the game.
#1202 of 1402 Re: Ref: Brakes, Japanese and Korean Cars [jkaudia6]
Nov 30, 2009 (7:58 am)
Thank you again for the insight. I really don't have a problem with going to the dealer for the oil changes, $120 every 10k miles seems resonable. As far as the timing belt, the service advisor informed me that mine had a timing belt...maybe he was wrong, I'll look into it further to make sure. However, if it is a chain...that's so much better as it's one less thing to worry about.
#1203 of 1402 Akebono Ceramic Pads
Nov 30, 2009 (2:44 pm)
Hey JK...just posting to let you know about the ceramic brake pads I was talking about and why I feel so comfortable with using them.
Pro Street Online
"Akebono ceramic brake pads will put an end to your replacement brake pad nightmare - noise, vibration, and harshness (NVH). Developed from ceramic research similar to that which led to the ceramic heat shields on the space shuttle, Akebono brake pads combine the best performance characteristics of both semi-metallic and organic pads while reducing noise, lowering dust accumulation, and providing better fit with the rotor. Since ceramic pads are O.E. on many vehicles today, including the Honda Accord and Toyota Camry, you might be shocked by a increase in NVH if you replace your O.E. ceramic pad with a metallic alternative. Other manufacturers using Akebono as OE include Nissan, Mazda, Subaru, Mitsubishi, Lexus, Infiniti, and DaimlerChrysler. Akebono invented the technology for ceramic friction materials in the 1980's. Today, Akebono Ceramic Technology (ACT) with NVH control is specified by all of the world's leading vehicle manufacturers. There are more than 250 OEM ceramic disc pad numbers for vehicles from the past 10 years.
Akebono's ceramic brake pads provide:
Enhanced initial effectiveness - no break-in required
Excellent rotor compatibility
Unsurpassed vibration dampening
Dramatically quieter braking
Specified as O.E. "
I've been using ceramic pads over the last 7 years, and the Akebono product for the last 3. I've got almost 80k miles on the original rotors and there's still no need to replace them. I just put a new set of the Akebono pads on over the weekend...they are truly a good product. I will be using the same brand on the Audi when the time comes to to put new pads on there as well.
#1204 of 1402 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins
Dec 05, 2009 (12:15 am)
Hello all. I'm a newb to forums of any sort so bear with me.
I currently own 2 Audis that I call Jekyl and Hyde. Jekyl is a pearl white 1996 A6 FWD V6 automatic with over 200,000 miles. Physically, great shape for the miles; no rust anywhere, mild wear on the driver's seat only, body straight, no leaks even on the sunroof. I don't think the owner had anyone else in the car ever and never put anything in the trunk, you need to really pull up on it to open. Hyde is new to the family and is a 1995.5 S6 with some work done to it. It's blazingly quick for such a big car with mild performance mechanicals: Turbo 5(stock turbo) w/modified chip, quattro, 5-speed manual. Love it!! I enjoy every minute with it.
I've been having an electrical issue with Jekyl since purchasing 3 years ago. Someone installed an aftermarket head unit and it used to draw excessive juice, so much that if I didn't start it at least every 3 days, the battery would be dead. I ripped out the hack job and installed a whole new system front to back and no more issues with the stereo. I also replaced the battery just to make sure. I noticed that when I drive, occasionally the volt meter on the dash drops from 14 to 12- 12.5, usually idle like at stop lights and the such. When I pull away, it goes back up towards 14. It happens more often at night when the headlights are on. I know cars run 12 volts or more, but with so much electrical equipment in such a heavy car, I feel better with 13-14 with everything running.
The stereo is a 2 ohm system with 900 watts. I put a 1.0 farad capacitor to help with the juice and not tax the factory electrical system. I idled the car with the stereo on loud and the heater on full blast & max temp. No volt drop in 20 minutes. I turned off the stereo and heater, turned on the headlights and saw the volts drop a little, I'd say .5-1.0 volt. I turned the car off, let it sit over night. the next day I turned the car on and it's back up to 14 startup.
Today i went to drop off my wife work. Drove the car for 8 miles (95% highway 80 mph), no problems. Pulled into a space, sat for 10 minutes. She left and hit reverse, moved out, put in drive and the car died. Tried to start again, nothing. I pushed in back into the space, turned off ignition and sat for a few minutes. Tried ignition, started up. Idled ok and started to leave again. All systems go for 3 minutes. It started to hesitate a little bit. Went back to okay. A minute later same thing only longer, like a clogged catalytic converter. Continued around a bend to the right slightly uphill. I coaxed it to the crest and off to a safe area on the side of the road where it stopped completely. I looked the dash and the oil pressure symbol in between the tach/speedo cluster came on. I turned it off, sat and waited, turned it back on and started up with no noises or pressure symbol. When I went to shift into drive, engine cut off. Tried this again 2-3 times & same thing. I looked in the engine bay and saw no leaks of any kind and checked the oil level and perfectly fine. Called for a flat bed and brought it home. After the sitting for a few hours, I started it and it worked fine, no warning lights, shifted into gear and moved forward and reverse (albeit 10 feet either way).
I'm not good with a volt meter but am pretty mechanically inclined. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
#1205 of 1402 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [chandler661]
Dec 05, 2009 (6:32 am)
Electrical Gremlins for sure:
The singular most difficult problem on any vehicle.
1. That Jekyl even has a voltage meter is highly unusual, but OK if you say so.
I'll get back to that in a moment.
1st I'm not familiar with a "Head Unit" is that a Cylinder Head device or something to do with your radio/stereo?
Variations in voltage output to the battery from the Alternator are normal dependent upon what's being used on the vehicle at any given time. Of course this is under the assumption that all other electrical equipment is functioning correctly.
The list of electrical options is long, but if you start turning them on you increase the amount of voltage used from the battery and in turn the amount of alternator out put to produce the electrical energy used.
By way of elimination based on what your telling me:
a. The battery is new (12 Volt, AMPS RATING ???????)
b. The radio/stereo is OK.
The first place to look is the Alternator. Why ! Because Alternators have built in voltage regulators and brushes.
The first test would be a voltage output under load test, Not just at idle. of the alternator.If it does not meet the rated output range for your model car with it's optional electrical equipment then it's one or more of three things.
a. The Voltage Regulator portion of the Alternator has gone south.
b. The Alternator contact brushes are worn and need to be replaced.
c. The Drive belt for the Alternator which also drives the water pump may be to loose or worn and needs replacing and adjusting.
d. Also take a look at the battery cables, Clean and tighten to the Plus & Minus poles. While your checking cables go back and find out what the Amp rating of your "New Battery" is, it maybe that you bought a battery which is not sufficient for your car. It should be a least the rating indicating in the Owners operation manual.
I Always start with the cheapest things first. The regulator portion of the alternator maybe part of the contact brush assembly.
NOW, Having said all of that the questions is ! Does that have anything to do with your " No Start/Engine dies problem" The short answer is MAYBE.
The motor not starting/dies is one or more of several areas:
I am going from the assumption that when your car does not start the starter motor turns the engine over.
a. Fuel, Air, Temperature, Electrical, Vacuum hoses, and Related sensors for any one of the above.
Having said that and based on your previous comments about "Head Unit" Power Booster of some kind, and that the car has 200,000 plus miles on it that the problem is alternator related.
In particular the High Voltage Coils on each spark plug have a particular voltage and amp rating requirement that they can cause the spark plugs to ignite the fuel.
If that voltage requirement is not meet the engine may not start or die if the battery
is not being charged to a particular capacity to keep everything running.
Note: Just an after thought but does your 96 A6 have a safety switch on the Gear Selector which precludes the car from starting when it's in a gear other than Park????
In any case a reliable Audi dealer or third party shop that has the correct diagnostic equipment for your car is the best choice.
I will stop here as I don't want to confuse the issue by talking about AIR, FUEL, Vacuum Hoses and related sensors.
Good Luck Chandlier661
#1206 of 1402 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [jkaudia6]
Dec 05, 2009 (9:19 am)
Hey JKAudiA6, Thanx for the quick response. I was hoping I didn't write too much. I'll cut too the chase and answer some questions.
First, just to clarify, "head unit" is another term for CD receiver because it controls everything for the stereo. The capacitor is used between the battery and the amplifier in the power chain. It's used to supply extra juice to the amp when the music needs an extra boost as not to drain the battery all the time. When you run high power (big watts), the lights will dim or blink. Using a capacitor will alleviate the problem as long as it's sufficient enough for the wattage, aka Farad size. 1 Farad per 1000 watts. I stated that because it's part of the electrical system now and is usually the first thing mechanics will question for electrical problems. I know how to wire a stereo, but factory wiring diagnostics can be confusing and daunting. I ruled that out because no matter how loud it plays, there is no draw on the meter. The meter shows a drop with or without the stereo connected.
I do believe the car has a shifter safety switch. My wife leaves it in drive all the time and I try to start it not realizing it's still in drive and nothing. So I think that answers your question.
The car calls for 600-650 amps and the first battery I installed was rated 700 amps and the 2nd is 750. I do believe they are both sufficient. I swapped them out after the one that came with the car just to rule it out.
I contemplated changing the alternator for a while, but decided not to for 2 reasons. 1, they are ridiculously expensive. 2, I figured that the car will draw power, naturally, when stuff is on. But I also figured that if the alt was bad, it wouldn't charge the system back once the car was back under power. Every time, the meter would go back up. If the alt was bad, it would continue to draw off the battery til it was out of juice, right?? I didn't want to just start replacing stuff until ti was fixed and I'm out a couple grand.
The dash has a series of gauges: tach, speedo, warning lights, fuel, coolant temp, clock, oil temp, and volt meter (last three above the center stack). The S6 has all the same, just a different color. I also have a volt meter on the capacitor for the stereo and for the amp. Both are digital and always read the same #s as each other and the analog meter on the dash.
The car has one serpentine belt for everything. I replaced that in the beginning of the summer. I also replaced the timing belt and tensioners.
Battery cables are ok. There's no corrosion, breakage, and they're bolted tight to the terminals. The thing is that it's done the same thing with three different batteries. I replaced the one that came with the car because it wouldn't take a charge anymore. I bought a new one and nothing changed. I then swapped it for the one in the S. Same thing. So I'm ruling out the battery.
Yesterday freaked me out and I actually thought the transmission was shot. Another question: what does the oil pressure waring light have to do with anything? Is there possibly a circuit that tripped that and stopped the engine??
Don't worry confusing me with anything. Actually talking about sensors might be appropriate hear seeing how sensors are electrical. Maybe the oil pressure sensor is faulty or something along that circuit.
I appreciate your time and trying to resolve my issue. Get back to me if you have anything else. I just don't want to spend 3 bills on an alternator and still have the same problem. Hope to hear from you soon.
#1207 of 1402 Re: 2000 Audi A6 Quattro [abniz]
Dec 06, 2009 (2:49 pm)
Hi abniz I had the same problem with my window. I had to replace the window motor to fix it. However, I have learned the trick of revving your engine to have the widow go up. Please let me know if this helps.
#1208 of 1402 Re: 1996 A6 Electrical Gremlins [chandler661]
Dec 07, 2009 (12:45 pm)
Well at least we can say with reasonable certainty what it is not.
I did not mention this before but I am not an Electrical Genie. If I take a cable from it's connector I can remember where it was and put it back.
As for the "Engine Oil Pressure light" and a related sensor, it could be wired in such a way that when the oil pressure goes below a certain level it would shut the motor down. I don't know if the S6 Audi has such a sensor/switch wired that way or not. Actually I don't think they would wire a switch in that way for a street car. Have you ever tried to steer a car with power steering when the engine suddenly dies (All but impossible). It may be located on or near the base of the Oil canister mounting bracket, Dip Stick or Oil Pan.
It sounds to me like your in to working on your own vehicle but at some point money will have to be spent. For that reason I would strongly recommend getting reliable info from Audi. For your problem there are several ways to go with this line of thought.
a. There is an Audi Web Page called "ERWIN.COM" for Audi USA. They have all the Documents, service INFO and Tool recommendation one needs to do self repair. The Hourly Flat rate as I recall is $21.00, you buy what you need, Manuals, diagrams, tools and research your problem in advance. How it all works is on the web page.
b. Or ! Get an Error Code read out from the on board computers *ECU's in your car from a dealer\service facility. I have know Idea what that cost.
c. The other option is go to the Vag COM web page state side and look in to buying
a diagnostic software package and interface cable for your car.
Note: Depending on your skill level this may or may not be for you.
Should you decide this last option be advised that it's very easy to render your vehicle inoperative (Make a mistake).
As for the problem:
a. I'd do one last test on that Gear shift lever when it's in the "PARK POSITION"
Wiggle it to see if you can recreate the problem.
b. The sensors control several different areas of the engine operation:
1. Air Flow(Volume), Ignition spark, timing, Air, water, coolant and Ambient temperatures. All of this data is sent to one or more "Electronic Control Units"
(ECU) which is really a small specialized computer. In it's memory banks (Chips) are tables of control parameters for each given area, Air, fuel, temperatures, Spark and ignition. The most simple of all these are most likely the thermal type sensors
Hot/Cold, sends an electrical implus to the ECU which interprets the data received
looks a tablle of data and sends a message back to the control devices which provide the Air, Fuel, Ignition etc.
Note: If this data is not being interpreted correctly then an error code is generated and stored in the ECU for Service personnel to interpret with VAGCOM software.
The other posiblitiy is a "COLD Soldier Joint" in a Sending unit or ECU which most often is effected either by
1. Vibration or HOT & COLD Operational Temperature or Ambient Temp's.
Back in the 70's I had a Porsche 914 which would stop running while driving on the Freeway in Los Angeles.
One last note which I found refreshed what knowledge I do have.
The Web Page is called: THE CAR BIBLE Google it the author is very knowledgeable about how cars work.
As I'm sure you understand Chandler661 and as we confirmed earlier Electrical Stuff is tough.
Best Regard & Be patient.
#1209 of 1402 Re: Akebono Ceramic Pads [allmet33]
Dec 07, 2009 (12:57 pm)
Thanks for the TIP on Ceramic Brake pads. I'd never really considered anything else.
Living in Germany, we have a whole different set of rules as it pertains to cars & Maintenance. But if they are approved OE perhaps I can use them here as well.
I'll dial in on the net and see.
#1210 of 1402 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air
Dec 07, 2009 (4:03 pm)
My 2003 Audi A6 blows cold air even when the engine is hot. The only way that I can get any warm air in the cabin is to set both thermostats to Hi, have the defrost on front window and have the heater in econ mode. Even then it only blows moderately warm air and not enough to heat the cabin. Any ideas on what is causing this?