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Sedans Audi A6 Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair
1190 messages, Last post on Nov 07, 2009 at 2:49 PM
You are in the Audi A6 Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: Diggs814 (Nov 22, 2008 5:08 pm) |
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I am very confused and I hope that someone out there has some good advice for me. Here is my issue....I brought my 2002 Audi A6 to the dealer several weeks ago b/c my engine light was on. They said I had two problems. (1) A coolant sensor had to be replaced...no problem and (2) I needed a new torque converter...it could be done for $2000. GULP!!!! I initially declined to have the torque converted replaced b/c other than the engine light being on, the car runs perfectly. I brought the car to another location and they too said that the codes being produced by the computer stated I also needed a new torque converter. Soon after I brought the car to the second dealer, the engine light went off. Since then (about 3 - 4 weeks), the light hasn't come back on and the car still runs perfectly. Absolutely no problems. The dealer told me that the car may run for the next 50k miles w/o a problem or I could blow my entire transmission as soon as I pull off the lot...and that would cost $5k to fix. Well, I finally made an appt to have it fixed. This is a painful fix as my engine light is off and the car runs perfectly. Also, the car is only worth 10 - 11k. I'm assuming both dealers wouldn't lie to me and that the computer tells them there is a problem. Any idea what I should do? And, if I truly had a problem, wouldn't my car say so? Shouldn't I be noticing at least some problem with the car? HELP...before I spend $2000 to fix nothing
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Replying to: kealbert (Dec 02, 2008 4:56 pm) If it was DTC 17125/P0741, then that's a failure of the torque converter internal oil seal and yeah, that's bad news.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 02, 2008 6:43 pm) I have been on a few other boards and the feedback ranges from do nothing to get it fixed tomorrow....sigh. I talked to a someone who I think is very knowledgeable...at least he seems to be....and he said that since my engine light hasn't been on for weeks and the car is running perfectly, that I shouldn't worry about it until I notice any wrong with the car. In short, the car just isn't going to drop the transmission tomorrow...I will notice it over time. I just don't know what to do....it is hard to fix something that isn't showing signs of being broken.
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Replying to: kealbert (Dec 04, 2008 4:42 pm) I just spoke with my Audi experts and they said: "If it's a 2.7 Turbo with that fault code, start saving for a torque converter. If it's not, then clear the codes and sit tight. As long as it isn't slipping or failing to go into gear properly, it might just be a "ghost" message that won't come back. It could go either way here" so there you go.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 04, 2008 5:31 pm) Thanks, Keith |
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Replying to: Diggs814 (Nov 22, 2008 5:08 pm) I must agree with some of the other posters, that the first machanic does not appear to know what he is talking about. I would strongly suggest taking the car to an Audi dealership to diagnose the problem, if you cannot find an independent shop that specialises in Audis. As for the turbos... if the turbos were bad you would have experienced one or more of the following... chirping sounds during hard acceleration (when the turbos are at full boost and speed), white or blue exhaust smoke - and lots of it. If you are not having any of these issues your turbos are fine. Someone mentioned sluggish-ness, which might not always mean the turbos are bad, but be an indicator of boost leaks, i.e. leaks in the turbo charge system. On a side note... Keep in mind is that replacing the turbos on these cars will be a very expensive repair. It's an Audi so parts are twice as expensive right off the bat. In order to replace the turbos the engine has to be pulled out of the car. There are two ways this is usually done, either from the front or by dropping it out the bottom. Either way, the mechanic needs to know his stuff and labour will be expensive. (my car was in the shop for 5 days - Audi dealership). You can buy a new set of stock turbos for around $1000-$1500, so if you can find someone to do the work it will probably cost around $5000. As someone else mentioned here... ALWAYS keep and eye on your fluids. Turbos that are starving for oil (lubricates and cools) will die quickly. Do your oil changes regularly. ALWAYS use synthetic oil. NEVER drive the car hard and simply stop and turn off the engine - if you drove it hard and the oil tempreture is higher than normal, let the car idle for a few minutes so the temp goes down, or make sure you drive it nice and easy for the last couple of miles before you get to your destination. Here are a two links that might be helpful to you and some other posters regarding the Audi S4. The S4 has the exact same engine as the A6 so much of the preventative maintenance stuff applies to the A6. http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/Audisport-iberica.com_S4_B5_Buyersguide.- pdf http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/audiforums.com_Audi_S4_Newbie_FAQ.pdf There are several shop listed at the bottom of this site, by state, so hopefully some of these are close to you... http://www.VAGLinks.com It is unfortunate that these awesome cars get such a bad rap, but all they need is a little more attention and care than naturally aspirated models, and they are very reliable. Certainly fun to drive! I hope that helps. Cheers Massboykie
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Replying to: Massboykie (Dec 05, 2008 1:31 pm) Wouldn't spend $2000.00 to get your A6 fixed, try to get another car. It is just one thing after another with these cars. Do agree about the fun to drive part and the Audi interiors are the best in the business. Just make sure you lease and return, never own and go bankrupt over repairs!
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Hello fellow Audi Owners, I live in Seattle, WA have a 2001 A6 2.8 with 60k miles on it and is currently experiencing catastrophic engine failure - or at least that's how it being described by my mechanic. About 2 weeks ago I was driving and my low coolant engine light flicked on along with that lovely triple beep alerting me to problem. I had only been driving for about 15 minutes that day so the engine hadn’t even heated up thoroughly. I was quick to pull over at Shucks Auto Supply store and popped the hood and visually confirmed that the coolant reservoir was completely empty. I bought premium priced coolant (just like the gas I pump into my beloved Audi) and filled up the reservoir. Bent down to check under the car to see if there was an immediate coolant leaking, which there wasn’t. I shut the hood, started up and drove down the road. The warning and beeping went away and thought that was strange to have a bone-dry reservoir but was content for the moment. Less than 3 miles down the road the coolant light and the triple beeping started again. My heart skipped a beat and proceeded to pullover and check again. I was shocked to see that the reservoir was yet again completely empty. Obviously the coolant was going somewhere and since I didn’t see it leaking from under the car – I thought that it must cycling through the engine somehow. I immediately drove to my mechanic, which luckily was only 5 miles away. He filled the coolant reservoir with water and cranked the engine while placed on the lift. It didn’t take too long to find the steady drip. He thought that it might be a hose and said he couldn’t work on the car right now but would check it more thoroughly the next day. No problem – I live walking distance from his garage. I purchased the car a year ago, and have put less than 6K miles on it. I walk my children to school and I walk to work. I basically drive the car on the weekends to go to church and to go shopping. I wanted a nice car for my family that was safe, practical, and not too flashy. I don’t drag race my Audi. The next day I got the dreaded phone call from my mechanic stating that it would be $150 just for the labor to find the source of the leak. I was like no problem; call me when you find the root of the problem. Almost 4 hours later my mechanic he said that I needed to come to the shop, he couldn’t explain the problem over the phone. I went to the shop and he inserted a video probe into the back of the engine block. What I saw on the video monitor was a steady spray but not a specific location from where. The mechanic said he believed that the engine was cracked and wouldn’t know the extent of the damage until he got $500 to completely remove the engine; which I reluctantly paid since I had to tap my savings account. 2 days later the mechanic called and I got to see the engine completely pulled out. The mechanic explained that there were actually 2 hairline cracks that weren’t visible until he heated the cracks with a torch. My question for anyone that read this long entry, would it make sense to find a welder to weld the cracks? Anyone every heard of an engine block cracking for no reason? Any ideas how the engine might crack in the first place? Is the only solution to replace the engine? Anybody know any decent places to purchases a worthy engine? Thanks in advance for your input. I am going to go to the bathroom and cry in private. – Vince |
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