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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

1201 messages,  Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 6:07 AM

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What is this discussion about? Audi A6, Sedan, Wagon


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#1062 of 1201
Audi A6 by dm1212
Nov 26, 2008 (4:11 am)
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Hi guys,
I know this is a little off topic but I need imediate help.
Today I was about to park, didn't think the car was still moving and I threw my 05 A6 into park. I heard the transmission grinding, was there any damage done? I was going less then 5MPH.
 
And on that Porsche, I like it, although it somewhat looks like an avant.
#1063 of 1201
Re: Audi A6 [dm1212] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Nov 26, 2008 (9:32 am)
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Replying to: dm1212 (Nov 26, 2008 4:11 am)

That was your park pawl protesting, but if you didn't break it off (in other words, if it still locks into park) then you got away with it THIS TIME
#1064 of 1201
Re: Coolant Leak Question [Diggs814] by fonefixer
Nov 26, 2008 (11:04 am)
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Replying to: Diggs814 (Nov 22, 2008 5:08 pm)

I have owned the same car and it is really a terrible vehicle to own and operate w/o a warranty. These cars are among the most complicated to repair of all vehicles and the shops that understand this car are few and far between. Parts are prohibitively expensive, unbelievably proprietary, and hard to order outside the retail dealer network.
 
After almost 9 years of Audi ownership experience, you really don't want to drive one w/o warranty coverage. These are cars which should be leased for 3 years and just simply given back to the dealer. Buying a 2.7T straight up was a financial mistake in my opinion. You should have a 30 day warranty if purchased from a dealer, maybe they will make some allowance for the turbo replacement?
 
Watch your fluid levels......watch your fluid levels..........watch your fluid levels! I checked the coolant, oil, brake fluid, power steering, windshield washer fluids almost on a daily basis. Letting the coolant run low for any reason is death to the turbos. Again, if purchased within 30 days from a dealer, I believe they have some responsibility towards the repair of this incredibly hard to repair vehicle.
#1065 of 1201
Re: Coolant Leak Question [Diggs814] by kirby2010
Nov 29, 2008 (12:53 pm)
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Replying to: Diggs814 (Nov 22, 2008 5:08 pm)

Diggs - That doesn't sound good. I'm not an expert but it sounds a lot like the problem I had earlier this year. My low coolant light kept coming on but there was no sign of leakage. In my case it WAS NOT the turbos. I had to have an auxiliary coolant pump replaced. This pump continues to pump coolant on hot days after the engine is turned off. It was the end of summer and I was in for the 105K service. Since the service manager couldn't reach me by phone they didn't do the repair and I had to take it back. I don't drive it every day so it wasn't a problem. NOT suggesting you should drive it. Cost of repair was about $600 or $800 parts and labor. I have a 2001 2.7T w/6-speed. Always serviced at the Audi dealer where I bought it. It will be eight years old in March. Love this car. Good luck.
#1066 of 1201
Torque Converter by kealbert
Dec 02, 2008 (4:56 pm)
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I am very confused and I hope that someone out there has some good advice for me. Here is my issue....I brought my 2002 Audi A6 to the dealer several weeks ago b/c my engine light was on. They said I had two problems. (1) A coolant sensor had to be replaced...no problem and (2) I needed a new torque converter...it could be done for $2000. GULP!!!!
  
I initially declined to have the torque converted replaced b/c other than the engine light being on, the car runs perfectly. I brought the car to another location and they too said that the codes being produced by the computer stated I also needed a new torque converter. Soon after I brought the car to the second dealer, the engine light went off. Since then (about 3 - 4 weeks), the light hasn't come back on and the car still runs perfectly. Absolutely no problems.
  
The dealer told me that the car may run for the next 50k miles w/o a problem or I could blow my entire transmission as soon as I pull off the lot...and that would cost $5k to fix.
  
Well, I finally made an appt to have it fixed. This is a painful fix as my engine light is off and the car runs perfectly. Also, the car is only worth 10 - 11k. I'm assuming both dealers wouldn't lie to me and that the computer tells them there is a problem.
  
Any idea what I should do? And, if I truly had a problem, wouldn't my car say so? Shouldn't I be noticing at least some problem with the car?
  
HELP...before I spend $2000 to fix nothing
#1067 of 1201
Re: Torque Converter [kealbert] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Dec 02, 2008 (6:43 pm)
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Replying to: kealbert (Dec 02, 2008 4:56 pm)

Can you tell us what the code # was?
 
If it was DTC 17125/P0741, then that's a failure of the torque converter internal oil seal and yeah, that's bad news.
#1068 of 1201
Re: Torque Converter [Mr_Shiftright] by kealbert
Dec 04, 2008 (4:42 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 02, 2008 6:43 pm)

Yep...you nailed it: P0741! (My service order says Fault in Torque Converter Clutch Circuit: P0741). Bad news, huh?
 
I have been on a few other boards and the feedback ranges from do nothing to get it fixed tomorrow....sigh. I talked to a someone who I think is very knowledgeable...at least he seems to be....and he said that since my engine light hasn't been on for weeks and the car is running perfectly, that I shouldn't worry about it until I notice any wrong with the car. In short, the car just isn't going to drop the transmission tomorrow...I will notice it over time.
 
I just don't know what to do....it is hard to fix something that isn't showing signs of being broken.
#1069 of 1201
Re: Torque Converter [kealbert] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Dec 04, 2008 (5:31 pm)
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Replying to: kealbert (Dec 04, 2008 4:42 pm)

Is this a 2.7 turbo?
 
I just spoke with my Audi experts and they said:
 
"If it's a 2.7 Turbo with that fault code, start saving for a torque converter. If it's not, then clear the codes and sit tight. As long as it isn't slipping or failing to go into gear properly, it might just be a "ghost" message that won't come back. It could go either way here"
 
so there you go.
#1070 of 1201
Re: Torque Converter [Mr_Shiftright] by kealbert
Dec 04, 2008 (6:15 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 04, 2008 5:31 pm)

Thank you for the quick reply. No...it is not a 2.7T. It is a 3.0 (2002 A6). I appreciate the advice and I will sit tight. That seems to be the consensus of the Audi experts that don't stand to make a quick $2k off me!!!
 
Thanks,
 
Keith
#1071 of 1201
Re: Coolant Leak Question [Diggs814] by Massboykie
Dec 05, 2008 (1:31 pm)
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Replying to: Diggs814 (Nov 22, 2008 5:08 pm)

Hi Diggs
 
I must agree with some of the other posters, that the first machanic does not appear to know what he is talking about. I would strongly suggest taking the car to an Audi dealership to diagnose the problem, if you cannot find an independent shop that specialises in Audis.
 
As for the turbos... if the turbos were bad you would have experienced one or more of the following... chirping sounds during hard acceleration (when the turbos are at full boost and speed), white or blue exhaust smoke - and lots of it. If you are not having any of these issues your turbos are fine. Someone mentioned sluggish-ness, which might not always mean the turbos are bad, but be an indicator of boost leaks, i.e. leaks in the turbo charge system.
 
On a side note... Keep in mind is that replacing the turbos on these cars will be a very expensive repair. It's an Audi so parts are twice as expensive right off the bat. In order to replace the turbos the engine has to be pulled out of the car. There are two ways this is usually done, either from the front or by dropping it out the bottom. Either way, the mechanic needs to know his stuff and labour will be expensive. (my car was in the shop for 5 days - Audi dealership). You can buy a new set of stock turbos for around $1000-$1500, so if you can find someone to do the work it will probably cost around $5000.
 
As someone else mentioned here... ALWAYS keep and eye on your fluids. Turbos that are starving for oil (lubricates and cools) will die quickly. Do your oil changes regularly. ALWAYS use synthetic oil. NEVER drive the car hard and simply stop and turn off the engine - if you drove it hard and the oil tempreture is higher than normal, let the car idle for a few minutes so the temp goes down, or make sure you drive it nice and easy for the last couple of miles before you get to your destination.
 
Here are a two links that might be helpful to you and some other posters regarding the Audi S4. The S4 has the exact same engine as the A6 so much of the preventative maintenance stuff applies to the A6.
 
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/Audisport-iberica.com_S4_B5_Buyersguide.- pdf
 
http://www.vaglinks.com/Docs/Audi/B5/S4/audiforums.com_Audi_S4_Newbie_FAQ.pdf
 
There are several shop listed at the bottom of this site, by state, so hopefully some of these are close to you... http://www.VAGLinks.com
 
It is unfortunate that these awesome cars get such a bad rap, but all they need is a little more attention and care than naturally aspirated models, and they are very reliable. Certainly fun to drive!
 
I hope that helps.
 
Cheers
Massboykie

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