Last post on Aug 05, 2013 at 11:16 AM
You are in the Toyota Sienna
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Toyota Sienna, Van
#415 of 460 Re: cabin air filter direction [ateixeira]
May 26, 2010 (9:45 am)
Thanks, you confirmed what I thought. After I posted I realized it was probably a dumb question. I have not bought yet, but 17 bucks at Walmart. Was your OEM and fram replacement flat on the bottom with the pleats on top(fram CF9846A? I also see a CF10132 with pleats on both sides. The CF9846A shows CE/LE and the other one shows XLE/Limited. That is confusing since I have seen other sites that show you can use either one.
Not CAF related, but when you replace your tires what brand will you be looking at? Mine have 41K and still have some tread left, but wife says they slip on takeoff sometimes in wet weather. Was looking at the Michelin Harmony or Yokohama brand.
#416 of 460 Re: cabin air filter direction [madams1]
May 26, 2010 (11:06 am)
I got the CF10132, with pleats on both sides.
To be honest I doubt it matters, the direction of the air flow, but I did install as per the arrows.
Haven't shopped at all for tires yet. 30k miles and the Dunlops are still going strong. Not bad for an OE tire.
#417 of 460 Re: cabin air filter direction [ateixeira]
May 26, 2010 (6:02 pm)
Since you mentioned the OE filter, I found one Toyota site that sells them online. They were about 15.00 a piece plus 8.00 shipping. If you get 2 the shipping is about the same. Believe it was Toyota of Nashua. Weird, but the 2 pack was more than buying two seperatly.
By the way, is your van an LE and was your OE filter pleated on just one side?
I have seen the OE filter online both ways, pleated only on one side and pleasted on both sides. I assume the filter casing with accept both.
My local dealers wanted 24.00 for one filter.
#418 of 460 Re: cabin air filter direction [madams1]
May 27, 2010 (10:52 am)
Weird that the 2-pack costs more.
Yes, 2007 LE, and exposed pleated on both sides of the OE and the Fram filter.
Next time I'll buy OE even if it costs more.
#419 of 460 Re: cabin air filter direction [ateixeira]
May 28, 2010 (9:43 am)
Ateixeira, forgot to ask - Did you have any trouble getting the damper arm off? It looks a bit tight getting your hand in there and looks like it may be a bit tough getting the arm to slide off. Also, I get from the video that you do not have to push in very much to drop down the glove box. In the video it looks like the guy took the glove box all the way off. I thought it just hangs there after pushing in and dropping down.
Have a great weekend!
#420 of 460 Re: cabin air filter direction [madams1]
May 28, 2010 (10:33 am)
It was surprisingly easy, actually.
I didn't even see the video - I just followed the instructions in the owner's manual.
Very easy job, took me just 2 minutes, maybe.
PS Yes it sort of just hangs there.
#421 of 460 Advice/Help on removing oil filter housing?
Jun 02, 2010 (7:18 am)
Goodyear Auto Center did my last oil change, and the oil filter housing is too tight.
I usually do my own oil, but this was in the middle of the huge blizzard we had.
Any how, I tried a wrench, failed, tried a metal 65/67 filter wrench on a ratchet, failed, then tried another plastic 65/67 filter wrench from NAPA, failed yet again.
This thing seems bonded on.
Will a 64mm filter wrench do it?
Should I try a strap wrench or a clasp-style?
Or take it back and demand they torque it to spec?
#422 of 460 Re: Advice/Help on removing oil filter housing? [ateixeira]
Jun 02, 2010 (2:23 pm)
Don't go back. If it's "doable," do it yourself. If it's not doable, they will mess it up... they'll be on the hook for it, but you really want these goons to get creative on your car?
The filter wrench on a ratchet is no good... by design, there's only so much torque you can put on there... makes ya wish they had used one of those to tighten...
A strap wrench is probably your best bet, but dolce, dolce. If you break the filter w/out getting it off, it's tow-truck time.
If you feel strong in the faith, and have room to maneuver, a really large screwdriver from Sears, rammed through the center off the filter, makes an excellent and proven wrench. However, once you start, there's no going back.
First, try the strap wrench, but don't twist to more than a little... you still need flow to drive it to a "real" shop.
This would bother me not a little. How hard is it to do this right? Like you, I change my own oil, and I tighten the filter by hand... and 9 times out of 10, remove it by hand as well.
#423 of 460 synthetic oil needed ???
Jun 03, 2010 (12:28 pm)
just took my 2010 in for the 10k service and was told I must use synthetic oil. has anyone else heard this?
#424 of 460 Re: Advice/Help on removing oil filter housing? [steine13]
Jun 03, 2010 (12:53 pm)
This is a canister/cartridge refillable type filter, so the screw driver punch idea doesn't apply.
I may get a strap wrench for next time, though.
I ended up taking it back yesterday, though I spoke to the Manager politely but firmly about following OE torque specs.
They got it off, saying it wasn't difficult (doubt that). I supplied the filter and they changed it, and then topped off the oil since some was lost.
So at least they corrected their mistake for free.
I just hope I can get it off next time. Thing is - they can tighten using the 3/8" drive at the bottom of a removable cap, but not loosen since the cap itself comes off.
Lesson learned - strap wrench next time and if you want to do it right, do it yourself!