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Toyota Tercel, Steering
May 02, 2002 (6:21 pm)
Have any of you ever replaced the CV joints on a Toyota Tercel? I've been told that the entire axle assembly can be purchased (with new CV joints already installed), and this was by far the easiest way to replace them. Is this true? How tough is it to remove the old axle assembly, and install the new one?
#2 of 25 CV joint repl
May 03, 2002 (8:48 am)
is not hard but what is your time worth. Some of the parts store chains sell remanufactured short shafts and you are really taking a chance. Suggest you look in the yellow pages and find a local machine shop that specalizes in drive trains, take you old shaft to them and let them rebuild it. Get a shop manual. You will also need some pickle forks to get the various joints free. I like working on cars but would suggest this is a dirty, mindless (suits me well) project and you will probably save a few bucks if you time is worth almost nada.
#3 of 25 Addition to Changing CV Joints
May 03, 2002 (8:50 am)
A good friend had an old Tercel-the CV joints were such crap that when he turned a corner it would go BANG BANG BANG-that was the CV joint skipping a hole-really made a racket and the whole vehicle shook-he drove it like that for 3 years so if you are only driving around town-don't bother changing it unless making a huge racket is a bother.
#4 of 25 I concur that the job is not that hard
May 03, 2002 (12:33 pm)
a little time consuming however, if you purchased a rebuilt they are sketchy with regard to quality and often can break again alternative get a haynes manual read the procedure and see if you can by the part at the dealer again this component may be costly however if you do the job you'll know it was done right and quality part was used.
It may get a little messy however you'll probably in long run feel you happy you performed the work
#5 of 25 It's not hard if you have reasonable mechanical skills
May 05, 2002 (12:16 pm)
I did mine on a Nissan Sentra. It was easy and I got the entire shaft (inner and outer boots) for 80 bucks. It has a lifetime warranty, even if the boots ever tear. Normally, you would expect to pay over 100 bucks to have just a bad boot replaced, if a mechanic does it right. You need to make sure you have all of the right tools. An air impact wrench is a big help, a socket that will fit your front axial nut, a floor jack and a basic tool box. It took me about 1.5 hours to do the job. Jack the side of the car up high on the side that you are going to change. This will prevent the transmission fluid from draining out when you pull the shaft. Next remove the wheel, brake caliper (don't disconnect the brake line, just move it out of the way), remove the hub nut, and disconnect the what ever steering linkage that you truly have to ( you may not have to remove much to swing it), so you can pull the shaft out. Put a little trans fluid on the new shaft where it rides on the seal and reassemble everything.
#6 of 25 Unless I was broke...
May 09, 2002 (7:20 am)
It's a job I wouldn't do. Filthy work lying on your back!
May 13, 2002 (6:37 pm)
Yeah, I agree with isellhondas. It is not a rocket science and I can do it with ease (on the brain part), but it is a messy and pain job if you have to do it with a jack stand. It really not worth the effort.
#8 of 25 OK, guess I should have directed my split CV joint question here...
May 16, 2002 (3:11 pm)
AND THE QUESTION IS...
are those split CV joints that you see in places like AutoZone worth anything? My guess would be that it would be next to impossible to fill these things with grease and slap them on an axle without getting the whole dealybop completely filthy.
If anyone has ever made these things work, I'd be interested. Obviously doing the job right is a lot more money. I'm thinking about this primarily in old beaters that you want to get a few extra miles out of. Fifteen bucks for the kit and you can get an extra 20K , and then replace the axles if you still hold onto the car.
#9 of 25 split boot
May 17, 2002 (11:42 pm)
You don't fill CV boots with grease. But the split boots are put on without disassembling any hardware. Are they worth it? I think so. Are they as good as a non-split boot? I don't think so.
Depends on the type. I've had the ones with the little screws that hold the seam together. They are junk. Had to replace several of them. They are semi rigid (to make the screws work) and end up cracking. Then I used the type where you glue the seam together. They are better.
But use them on the beaters. They save a lot of work.
#10 of 25 Half sharfts
May 19, 2002 (8:59 am)
Or complete reconditioned axels are usually the way to go on Japanese brands. When replacing a boot, unless it has just a small crack, you want to disassemble the joint and clean it before re-booting. Toyota and Nissan products for sure (I stopped trying to diassemble Japanese axels before trying others) have retainers that make removing the joint from the axel more difficult than domestic brands or Europian brands. After replacing boots on eleven T or N vehicles, and breaking the second outer joint attempting to remove it, I now only replace axels or send them somewhere else.
On Ford, GM, VW, or Chrysler, it only takes seconds with a mallet and punch, or a snap ring pliers (depending on type of retainer) to remove the joint. The western Pacific variety require enough force to destroy the ring, it seems to be because the groove in the star lets the ring expand more. As stated earlier Warranties on re-conditioned axels are better too.