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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Infiniti G35 G37 Prices Paid and Buying Experience
6205 messages, Last post on Jul 23, 2008 at 7:45 PM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: sprinkler13 (Jul 26, 2007 12:19 pm) $910 drive off and $566 per month after tax for 24 months - 15k miles per year. |
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Replying to: dwynne (Jul 25, 2007 3:10 pm)
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Replying to: superman2424 (Jul 30, 2007 9:33 pm) First- If you haven't already done so, examine your lease contract to determine how your early termination liability charge is computed. More than likely, IFS uses the actuarial or constant yield method to compute the adjusted lease balance. What usually happens is that if this balance exceeds the wholesale value of the vehicle, the difference plus any early termination fee plus any applicable tax less security deposit is, effectively, your early termination liability charge. In a dealer transfer, IFS will most likely waive the early term fee (see below). If you would like, I'll be glad to compute your adjusted lease balance and, possibly, your early term liabilty charge depending upon the criteria set forth in the early termination clause (paragraph) of your contract as there may be some exogenous factors that are not readily available or indeterminate (e.g., wholesale value, early excess wear/tear, etc.). However, you'll need to FAX or email me your lease agreement. If interested, send me an email at diffeq  zoominternet.net. Second- If your low mileage car is in great shape, consider transferring your purchase option to the dealership so you can avoid paying any applicable sales tax. They'll charge you a fee for this but it will save time, possibly save money, and eliminate the aggravation from selling it on your own. If you sell on your own, you'll be liable for any applicable sales tax. Why? Because you would have to buy it from IFS and, then, your buyer would buy it from you. And so, these would be treated as separate and distinct sales transactions both subject to any applicable tax. Hence, there is the distinct possibilty of a double tax! In a dealer transfer, any equity would be given to you in cash or used as a down payment or cap reduction on your next vehicle acquisition. The latter is a bad idea. Never ever put cash down on a depreciating asset. Moreover, if you total the vehicle, you're not likely to capture your down payment. Therefore, insist that any equity be given to you in cash. Of course, you'll need to negotiate the value of your vehicle with the dealership. Be sure to keep the new car transaction separate from your old car transaction. Dealers love to roll the two into one transaction. Don't do it unless you know what you're doing! Third- You can find '07 G35 invoice pricing at edmunds.com. Hope this helps. John |
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Replying to: mchmd (Jul 31, 2007 9:16 am) Here is the inside Nissan link... http://www.insidenissan.com/vpp/vendor/answers.html John |
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This is my deal on a diamond graphite G35x: 39 month, 17k miles per year. Prem, Nav, & wood packages. $1,500 out of pocket (1st month, etc.,) + 9 MSD's ($5,400) $500 per month. |
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Replying to: superman2424 (Jul 30, 2007 9:33 pm) If it is not worth wholesale but is worth retail, then you can find a buyer (ebay, cars.com, etc) and sell it THROUGH a dealer to someone. Again, any money you get over buyout price goes in your pocket. Once you know the buyout price it is almost like a trade in. In your case you really have to sell it separate from the new deal since the car is not in your name - you have to have your father do the paperwork. There is a lot more to leasing or buying a car than having a good score. Most lease banks and auto loan providers use an "Auto enhanced" score that puts more weight on paid off and kept current auto leases and loans. You may have a 700 FICO but if you have no car loan/lease history you may find you do not qualify for a top rate with IFS or other lease provider. With IFS tier 0 is 740+, tier 1 is 700-739, tier 2 is 660-699, etc. So with a "nearly" 700 score you start in tier 2 and may drop if you don't have a lot of good car credit history. The rates posted here and other places online are the "buy rates" (what the dealer pays and what you pay if they do not mark it up) for those in tier 0 and probably tier 1. Dennis |
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Anyone have the new residuals and money factors for the G35x?
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Replying to: shooter6 (Aug 01, 2007 9:30 am)
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Replying to: sprinkler13 (Aug 01, 2007 10:54 am)
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Replying to: shooter6 (Aug 01, 2007 11:28 am) |
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