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Honda Civic Hybrid

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#894 of 1765 Re: I have the same thoughts... [rfruth] by paul12 Sep 19, 2004 (6:34 pm)
Replying to: rfruth (Sep 18, 2004 3:18 pm) I just wanted to get started by sending a message. Recently bought Civic Hybrid. Only 300 miles so far. It is a 2005. I have to admit it was more the technology than anything else that interested me. I'm sure it will be more economical than my old Pontiac! One big question I had before buying was expected price I would pay. I didn't have a lot of references. Here in Hawaii I paid 20200 plus my 99 Bonneville. I got an extended warranty through Geico insurance but after reading the previous messages I'm going to have to see if it covers the battery etc. The dealer suggested that here I should follow the "heavy use " maintenance schedule because of the weather. I'm not sure that's really necessary. Thanks to everyone who's already posted. The info is helpful.
#895 of 1765 by misterme Sep 22, 2004 (6:59 pm)
"The dealer suggested that here I should follow the "heavy use " maintenance schedule because of the weather. I'm not sure that's really necessary."   My dealer tried that on me even though I don't even qualify on the books specified heavy use criteria. Must be an easy way to double their service profit from us. I'm following the service schedule that applies to me...the 10K cycle.   I don't know about Geico but my Honda extended covers to 100K/7yr B2B and 150K/10yr battery. Replies to this message: paul12 (Sep 22, 2004 9:08 pm) larsb (Sep 23, 2004 5:59 am) blueiedgod (Sep 24, 2004 8:40 am)
#896 of 1765 Re: [misterme] by paul12 Sep 22, 2004 (9:08 pm)
Replying to: misterme (Sep 22, 2004 6:59 pm) I called Honda of America and they said stick to the suggested maintenance schedule that applies. Our trips are definitely longer than 5 miles and the weather is not always 90 but the continuous warm weather may be a factor in deciding. Geico covers 100k/7yr B2B but that includes the battery. It costs $30(thirty)per year with a 250 deductible. The dealer wanted 1300 for the same warranty you selected. They just sent a letter reiterating their offer so its still open to me. When I read the other messages the concern about the transmissions caught my eye. I wonder if that was just the earlier models. Someone did mention problems "in the past". At any rate its been 10 days with no visits to the gas station yet and heading into 400 miles. we run the air con constantly so I'm sure that's going to affect mileage.As I said before it will still be a lot better than what we're used to! Anyone change their own oil and trans fluid? I've changed the oil on my old cars.Is this one that different? The only 0-20 oil I can find here is synthetic except of course from the dealer. Replies to this message: larsb (Sep 23, 2004 5:59 am) blueiedgod (Sep 24, 2004 8:40 am)
#897 of 1765 Re: [paul12] by larsb Sep 23, 2004 (5:59 am)
Replying to: paul12 (Sep 22, 2004 9:08 pm) I change my own oil in my 2004 manual tranny HCH. Synthetic is fine - I use a 0W-30 synthetic here in Phoenix.    I am going to change the tranny fluid myself too when the time comes. I might decide on GM SynchroMesh, it seems to be the best manual tranny fluid out there, from what I could find so far.   Congrats on your fine choice of a car and good luck !! Replies to this message: blueiedgod (Sep 24, 2004 8:40 am)
#898 of 1765 Re: [larsb] by blueiedgod Sep 24, 2004 (8:40 am)
Replying to: larsb (Sep 23, 2004 5:59 am) I change my own oil in my 2004 manual tranny HCH. Synthetic is fine - I use a 0W-30 synthetic here in Phoenix.   Mobil 1 is available in 0W-20, which is direct replacement for the 5W-20.   0W-30 may not be such a good idea.   I am going to change the tranny fluid myself too when the time comes. I might decide on GM SynchroMesh, it seems to be the best manual tranny fluid out there, from what I could find so far.   If the hybrid tranny is similar to non-hybrid, I would strongly suggest that you stick with Honda MTF fluid. Using non-Honda fluids in Honda trans will most definatley void the warranty, and will affect the way the tranny behaves. Same is true with Auto tranny fluid. If Hybrid uses CVT fluid, this is the only fluid that should ever go into the tranny, nothing else.   Cost should not be an issue as the Honda MTF or CVT fluids are resonably priced for products that have no competition.
#899 of 1765 0W-30 versus 5W-20 by larsb Sep 24, 2004 (9:13 am)
0W-30 is good oil:   "Mobil 1 0W-30 is the most advanced performance synthetic engine oil designed to provide the cleaning power, wear protection and enhanced fuel economy performance."   Another oil site says:   "All three oils (0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30) are excellent motor oils and ANY one can be used in a vehicle which requires either a 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil as well as in several other engine applications including an engine which recommends a 5W- 20 oil. This leads to the next topic: many people also ask us if the 0W-30 is too thin a viscosity oil for high ambient temperature operation. The answer is absolutely not! Thicker viscosity oils are not always necessarily better since in addition to its' various engine lubrication functions, an oil must also effectively transfer heat. Only about 60% of an engines cooling is performed by the engine coolant, and only on the upper half of the engine. The remaining 40% of an engines cooling is performed mainly by the engine oil."   Yet another site:   "0W-30 flows up to seven times faster than conventional oils. Therefore, it provides superior protection for engine parts during cold start-ups. And it safeguards your engine when it's extremely hot. Plus, 0W-30 helps maintain low oil consumption and reduces wear on starters and batteries."   I can find more examples, but trust me on this: I have used 0W-30 in my last five vehicles since 1997, and it does a fine job. It doesn't evaporate, and it helps fuel economy by reducing friction.
#900 of 1765 Oil and Transmission fluid change by paul12 Sep 24, 2004 (12:07 pm)
Any comments on the 2005 owner manual stating the mechanic should change the trans fluid then run the car,then drain and repeat process three times. I doubt a dealer would really do this. Thanks for the input on the oil change. Replies to this message: larsb (Sep 24, 2004 1:58 pm)
#901 of 1765 Re: Oil and Transmission fluid change [paul12] by larsb Sep 24, 2004 (1:58 pm)
Replying to: paul12 (Sep 24, 2004 12:07 pm) Sounds like those tranny flush services at the regular car shops would be good for that...I doubt a dealer would do that without using one of those machines that the AAMCO and Goodyear shops use.....
#902 of 1765 Mobil 1 facts by blueiedgod Sep 25, 2004 (6:58 am)
Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30 SAE Grade 0W-30 Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt 40ºC 56 cSt 100ºC 10.3 Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 175 Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.2 HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s 150ºC ASTM D 4683 2.99 Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -54 Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 234 Density 15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.851   Mobil 1 0W-20   SAE Grade 0W-20 Viscosity, ASTM D 445 cSt 40º C 43 cSt 100º C 8.4 Viscosity Index, ASTM D 2270 165 Sulfated Ash, wt%, ASTM D 874 1.28 HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s 150º C ASTM D 4683 2.61 Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -57 Flash Point, ºC, ASTM D 92 232 Density 15º C kg/l, ASTM D 4052 0.855   The differences are almost negligible, but I still use 0W-20. Exxon does not list viscosity at 0C, but if you look at difference in viscosity for 0W-30 and 0W-20 from 40C to 100C. I can imagine that 0W-30 is more viscous at sub freezing conditions. You can see that by the lower pouring point of 0W-20 vs. 0W-30.   But, all in all, any synth is better than dyno oil.
#903 of 1765 Re: Tire Pressure [budd] by mauto Sep 28, 2004 (4:50 pm)
Replying to: budd (May 12, 2004 1:30 pm) Just some advice about calculating fuel economy using the fill-up method.   The 7th gen Civic's fuel tank is shaped such that it is highly variable as to when you have actually filled the tank. I know this because on occasion I've put more gas in my Civic than the 13.2 Gal capacity and driven for 50 more miles before the guage moves off "F". Sometimes I know the tank isn't quite full despite the pump's auto shut off kicking in. You shouldn't manually fill the tank once the pump shuts off to avoid draining into the emissions system. Why is this importatnt to know? Because when you only drive 100 miles and then refill, your mpg could be way off depending on when the pump shuts off.   Solution:   Use at least 10 tankfuls of gas returning to the exact same pump every time. Calculate your mpg each time and average all 10 readings to arrive at a reasonably accurate number.   It's possible to fill-up, drive 50 miles, fill-up again and the pump shuts off after only half a gallon added (pump shut-off calibrations differ at different pumps) and calculate your mpg to be 100. Of couse 100 mpg is impossible. Replies to this message: larsb (Sep 29, 2004 6:17 am) xcel (Sep 29, 2004 4:11 pm) larsb (Sep 30, 2004 6:24 am) and 1 more... blueiedgod (Oct 01, 2004 8:44 am) larsb (Oct 01, 2004 8:52 am) gagrice (Oct 01, 2004 8:56 am) blueiedgod (Oct 01, 2004 2:57 pm)

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