Last post on Dec 05, 2013 at 8:47 PM
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Buick Park Avenue
Sep 03, 2012 (4:16 pm)
I have a 1995 Buick Park Avenue and both windows on the driver side don't work but the windows on the passenger side work with the drivers switch. The back seat window on the driver side does not work with the back seat switch.
Do you think it is a switch or do I have two bad motors?
Thanks for you help
#419 of 463 Re: Power Window Problem [obrien040362]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Sep 03, 2012 (5:04 pm)
Might be a fuse. Many cars have separate fuses for left and right windows. It's worth a shot!
#420 of 463 Re: Power Window Problem [obrien040362]
Sep 03, 2012 (5:57 pm)
Pop the switchbeds out of the door armrests and then check for power to the right wires. You will really need a circuit diagram. I would suspect switch contacts first and bad motor second. For the rears you have the added possibility of a broken wire in the front door rubber guard to the door pillar from all the flexing.
I'll see if I have a diagram for a 93 Park Ave.
#421 of 463 95 Park Avenue Power Windows
Sep 04, 2012 (3:44 pm)
There are four prongs on the top and 4 prongs on the bottom. two prongs in the middle. How do I test it?
How do you post a pic on this forem?
#422 of 463 Re: 95 Park Avenue Power Windows [obrien040362]
Sep 04, 2012 (6:20 pm)
Download these and print them out to save them. Note that the master switch assembly goes across the top of both pages. The terminals have letters and the colors of the wires to them will verify the labels that should be on the switch block. In the diagram of the master switch assembly, the ground is provided by the "bottom" contacts and the power comes in on the "top"contacts. Those are shown as lines across wtih the switches being moved to contact the ground or the power connector.
Because the front window driver uses a control module, you can't access the motor directly without removing the door panel.
For the driver rear, you can test for continuity by pulling J and K at driver door contacts and using a resistance meter. Then if you show proper circuit there, you can remove door switch and test for continuity from E to B to test motor. You can also check rear by verifying A has battery power and E and B both have ground (through the master switch block on driver door).
This schematic is for a 93 leSabre and ParkAve they're in the same manual. If anything doesn't seem to match for your 95, then don't trust it and go tot he library and download a diagram for your year. But most things stay the same.
#423 of 463 Re: 95 Park Avenue Power Windows [obrien040362]
Sep 04, 2012 (6:18 pm)
>post a picture
Get a free membership on photobucket.com.
Then upload the pictures you want to post to there. Then you pick the data under the picture when it's in your album that gives the address for the direct link. Post that in your post here like I've done, and the reader will be able to see your picture.
#424 of 463 Re: 95 Park Avenue Power Windows [obrien040362]
Sep 21, 2012 (10:22 am)
were you able to fix this? I have the exact same prob with a 95 Buick PA and thanks to imidazol97 I now have a check list of items to go through.
#425 of 463 Re: 1998 Buick Park avenue engine problem [imidazol97]
Mar 17, 2013 (1:49 am)
imidazol97 - I believe I may have the same problem that you discussed in Msg 49 in the Buick Park Avenue forum. I have read all the msgs in the forum and would like to know if you could assist in diagnosing my 1998 BPA issue. If you are inclined to help I would be glad to hear from you. I can post here or you can msg me privately at p t d y e 4 1 1 at g m a i l d o t c o m
#426 of 463 1998 Buick Park Avenue engine problem - redux
Mar 17, 2013 (6:38 pm)
I'm new to the BPA forums but have read most of the posts from the last 10-12 years - insert way to much time on my hands jokes here.
In Msg 49 a problem is described that matches my problem but I am at the very beginning of the diagnosis process.
Here are my specifics:
1998 Buick Park Avenue - 83K miles - purchased used from dealer in 2000 and have not had any major problems with the car since then. Oil changed and fluid levels checked in Dec. of 2012.
Last Tuesday (03-12-13) I was doing some driving on the Interstate here in Central Florida. Was doing 75 mph or so and no problems - trip to my destination was about 45 mins. A few hours later I was returning home when I noticed just a slight rough running condition. I checked the digital gauges and saw only normal readings. A few minutes later the red light on the dash temp gauge came on. I switched the digital gauge over to temp and saw a 250 degree reading.
I immediately slowed to 55 just to see if that would lower the temp which it did. It dropped into the low 130 range. I considered pulling over and checking everything out but I had not seen any white smoke/water vapor coming from the exhaust and did not smell any oil burning/coolant smell.
About 20 mins later I stopped to get gas, turned off the engine and put in a few gallons and when I got back in to start up, the ignition engaged and turned the starter motor but the engine would not start right away. Other than being a little warm - 220 degrees or so - I did not see any problems. I continued cranking and after a minute of 3 to 4 cranking tries the engine finally fired up. I assumed that this was due to the extra heat but wouldn't cause permanent damage.
In just a couple of mins I was home and I shut down the car. After just a couple of mins I came out to check everything out. I immediately saw that the overflow canister for the coolant was empty. Since the radiator was hot I could not open the radiator cap. I had a gallon of coolant concentrate which I poured into the coolant canister and mixed in another gallon of fresh water.
I tried to start the engine again hoping to circulate the coolant into the engine and radiator to cool it off and after just a couple of tries it did start. The coolant immediately drained out of the coolant canister to the radiator - or so I thought. After just a few mins more I was able to get the radiator cap off and upon inspection I could not see a coolant level down the spout. So I made a run for more coolant.
When I returned I gave it another gallon of coolant concentrate this time directly into the radiator. It ate that right up as well including another gallon of water. At this point I know something is wrong because I checked the coolant capacity in the owner's manual and it was it was 13 quarts. I tried to start it once more but this time the engine would not turn over and I heard a metal clank while trying to start. I didn't recognize the sound. At this point I am starting to think I have caused serious damage to the engine. So, I decided to put it up for the night and I would take a fresh look at it in the morning.
The next day I got my neighbor to check it out with me since he is a heavy equipment mechanic. He had a remote starter and I checked out the starter underneath the car and saw that the top gear housing for the solenoid had sheared off. So, I made a trip to my local salvage yard and replaced the starter. Got it on and attempted to start the engine but the engine would not turn over. The solenoid would engage but the engine was not moving.
We got a large socket and placed it on the main pulley and tried to turn it. It would maybe move 1" in one direction and that was it. We then inspected the air intake manifold and saw coolant and some even ran out once we removed the boot connecting the air box with the manifold.
His thinking was that the oil probably super-heated and caused some internal component to seize. Maybe a piston connecting rod to one of the journals. I'm not that familiar with engine temps and how that raises the internal oil/coolant temps. And how high those temps have to get to do damage.
So, at this point I begin to make plans to change out the engine with a salvage yard engine. But, I decide to do a little more searching on the internet for possible causes and solutions to my problem. At that point I come across the Edmunds Buick PA Forum site and MSG 49 in particular.
I am wondering if all I have is a bad upper/lower intake manifold gasket set and the motor is hydrolocked as mentioned in the earlier post.
I am hoping the folks here that really know their stuff could help me out with a straight forward diagnosis as I break down and inspect my engine.
If anyone needs any further info please let me know and I will post it.
#427 of 463 Re: 1998 Buick Park Avenue engine problem - redux [spriteman]
Mar 18, 2013 (5:16 am)
Hey TD, Not a problem. It sounds like your upper intake manifold (UIM) has done the norm. There is a little metal stove pipe that goes through the lower part of the UIM or plenum, which allows exhaust to be mixed with the air as part of your exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. That stove pipe comes into close contact with that plastic plenum, and the original design has a water jacket encircling it to keep it cool. But plastic and heat don't mix, it dries out over time, it then cracks and water & coolant starts to leak in and mix with the air. When you are running, it probably burns off the little stream of fluid making it past the crack. When the engine cools the fluid leaks past the intake valves and fills some of your cylinders.
Air compresses, fluid doesn't. Hence your engine won't turn.
I've heard the clank and had the failure in my '98 twice.
Pull your spark plugs and then try to turn it over. Do NOT tell your wife to lean over and watch closely to see if fluid comes out while you sit inside the car and crank it
If it spins freely without the plugs in it, you are probably OK as long as you don't let it sit for a couple months. Solution for me has never been a replaced engine, just a new UIM. The new UIM has a new design, as well as a downsized stovepipe. I don't know if the redesign has thicker water jacket walls or no water jacket at all...? It's supposed to be a lifetime fix. This is what I put on after #2 failure
So you want to : get as much fluid out of the cylinders as possible, replace the UIM, change your oil, add coolant, fire it up and watch it steam for a while while it gets any remaining water out.
While you have it apart, you should go ahead and replace the LIM gaskets as well, they only cost about $45 at Amazon. Old design was plastic and tended to leak, the new design is aluminum and is supposedly a lifetime fix.
You could probably get the job done in an afternoon by yourself if you have the tools, including torque wrenches. If you do replace the LIM gaskets that will add a little time because you clean the old parts.
How many miles do you have on your car now?
Please let us know how it goes