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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

460 messages,  Last post on Apr 19, 2013 at 9:03 AM

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What is this discussion about? Buick Park Avenue

Messages Page 42 of 47

#405 of 460 Re: 92 Park Avenue missing at 50 MPH [1davidc] by jseiler

Feb 07, 2012 (9:57 am)

Replying to: 1davidc (Feb 06, 2012 2:42 pm)
Start with the plugs. Put in AC Delco platinums, gapped properly (I had a 91,95 (3 of them),and a 96, all gapped to 0.060"). Put a very little Never Seize on the threads before putting in the new plugs. Take it for drive, try to go up a bridge or something with a decent incline to see if it misfires or bucks, AND the same conditions you experienced previously with the problem. If that doesn't solve the problem, put in a new set of AC Delco ignition wires, Lifetime Warranty, Amazon has the best prices. Put them in VERY carefully, one at a time, replacing the wire you just took out with the same length new wire. Put a very little di-electric silicon grease into the boot on the spark plug end using a Q-Tip. Test drive again. A half a pound of fifties says your problem is solved. If not, we'll dig further. Please keep us posted. Regards, Joe

#406 of 460 Cold air on the driver's side by 2collies

Feb 15, 2012 (12:01 pm)

My 99 park avenue just started blowing cold air on the driver's side, but will still blow hot on the passenger side. This occurs in auto mode, heat mode, with the passenger climate set to hot or cold or off.
For the past 2 years I have heard something in the dash that sounds like a door trying to open or close, almost like the noise a blood pressure cup makes when pumping up, but everything in the climate control has worked just fine until this past week.
So, I think an actuator is stuck or broken based on what I can find on various websites. Where is this so called actuator? I know it's under the dash somewhere, but can anyone point me in the right direction? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike

#407 of 460 Re: Cold air on the driver's side [2collies] by imidazol97

Feb 15, 2012 (2:09 pm)

Replying to: 2collies (Feb 15, 2012 12:01 pm)
Take off the plastic cover under the dash, a few screws. Look up and watch the actuator #52 in this diagram. It will have white parts that show up and should rotate as you change the temperature with the key ON and change the settings on the dash controls. I am guessing you'll find it's not working smoothly and rotating its full range. You might even be able to manually help it move to the heat position. Actuators are held on by one or two screws and easily replaceable.
 
HVAC box diagram
 
Page of parts numbers corresponding to diagram

 
Good luck and let me know what you find.
 
The earlier actuators on the leSabres before 2000 had a white plastic gear inside that cracks. Then the gear slips on the hub it's a press fit on. The hub doesn't move the arm that moves the blend door or other doors. I repaired mine with superglue to hold the gear on the hub. I placed the split in the gear so it wouldn't meet the small driving gear during the 200 deg. range of motion controlled by a nub on the hub shaft on the outside of the box.

#408 of 460 Re: Cold air on the driver's side [imidazol97] by 2collies

Feb 16, 2012 (4:43 am)

Replying to: imidazol97 (Feb 15, 2012 2:09 pm)
Thank you sir. I printed the diagram and will have to wait until Saturday morning to get it apart. I'll let you know after that.

#409 of 460 Re: Cold air on the driver's side [imidazol97] by 2collies

Feb 20, 2012 (4:40 pm)

Replying to: imidazol97 (Feb 15, 2012 2:09 pm)
O.K., I found three actuators under the dash. The one on the passenger's side is the one that has been making lots of noice all along, number 23 in the diagram. Then if I'm right, number 51 moves the doors to control the air to the floor, vents, defrost, this one is working fine. It must be the number 52 like you said, but I didn't take it out yet until I could figure out if this is causing the problem. The replacement is $110 for the driver's side and $155 for the passenger's side.

#410 of 460 Got it by 2collies

Feb 21, 2012 (6:01 pm)

I got number 52 out tonight and manually changed the temp on the driver's side, now I have heat again on both sides. I ordered one today, but for now I have the ability to change it so tomorrow morning at 4:30 it won't be so cold.
Thanks again,
Mike

#411 of 460 Re: Got it [2collies] by imidazol97

Feb 21, 2012 (6:45 pm)

Replying to: 2collies (Feb 21, 2012 6:01 pm)
Thanks for letting us know that it worked.
 
Are you able to move the blend door after the actuator is off and have the blend door stay at the heat you pick even when the blower fan puts pressure on it? Or do you have to fasten it with a rubber band or string or something to hold it against the air pressure?

#412 of 460 Re: Got it [imidazol97] by 2collies

Feb 22, 2012 (4:48 am)

Replying to: imidazol97 (Feb 21, 2012 6:45 pm)
I thought that I had it set to be on heat all the time without the actuator on there, but driving in this morning it was blowing cold air again. I guess it's because of what you pointed out above. The new actuator should be here tomorrow, the dealer had it for $286 in stock, $86 at Dorman.
I should have it on Saturday morning, and I'll let you know.
Thanks again,
Mike

#413 of 460 Re: Got it [2collies] by 2collies

Feb 24, 2012 (4:39 am)

Replying to: 2collies (Feb 22, 2012 4:48 am)
This thing's got me stumped. I put the new actuator on last night, car was off, HVAC off. Bolted it on, connected it and started the car. When I turned on the heat and changed the temp, the exact same thing is happening. I looked under the dash and the actuator isn't moving at all. Is there a way to check if the part is bad, or maybe the temperature sensor on the driver's side is bad.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Mike

#414 of 460 Park Avenue - R/R door problems by rkwood123

Feb 24, 2012 (5:21 am)

I have read all the problem swith the opening mechanism on the PA doors. My right rear door would not open (from the outside or inside) so I took off the door panel to check the entire open / close / lock mechanism. I was able to open the door by giggling the linkage leading to the lock actuator, door latch and child door lock parts. When I inspected everything was in tack; the linkage was all hooked up and I couldn't see any broken parts. In fact, I also took it to my dealer with the door panel off and had two of their mechanics inspect everything...both said everything looked OK. I put the door back together and it worked for a few hours; opened, closed, locked, etc. All of sudden it again wouldn't open, from the outside or inside. I don't want to just start replacing parts - the outside door handle is fine. I've been told it could be the lock actuator, the latch or the child safety lock. Any help would be appreciated as I prefer not to just replace parts randomly. Thank you!

Messages Page 42 of 47

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