Last post on Dec 05, 2013 at 8:47 PM
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Buick Park Avenue
#392 of 463 1998 ultra water pump
Dec 07, 2011 (2:38 pm)
#393 of 463 1998 ultra water pump
Dec 07, 2011 (2:38 pm)
How difficult is it to change the water pump?
#394 of 463 Re: 1998 ultra water pump [danray74]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Dec 08, 2011 (10:16 am)
Book says 4.7 hours
The only snag I see here is how to support the engine if you don't have the special tool---you'll have to figure out a way to do that safely.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the bolts from the A/C compressor splash shield.
Remove the splash shield.
Drain the coolant.
Remove the supercharger drive belt.
Remove the drive belt.
Remove the coil pack. Position the coil pack out of the way.
Remove the supercharger belt tensioner.
Install the engine support fixture J 28467A
Remove the engine mount.
Remove the power steering pump.
Remove the engine mount bracket.
Remove the idler pulley.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the water pump.
Clean all of the gasket mating surfaces.
Using a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the water pump bolts.
Tighten the bolts (1) to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
Tighten the bolts (2) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.).
Install the water pump pulley. Tighten the bolts to 13 Nm (115 inch lbs.).
Install the idler pulley.
Install the engine mount bracket.
Install the power steering pump.
Install the engine mount.
Remove the engine support fixture.
Install the supercharger belt tensioner.
Install the coil pack.
Install the drive belt.
Install the supercharger drive belt.
Refill the coolant.
Install the A/C compressor splash shield.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Check for coolant leaks.
#395 of 463 Re: Climate control won't shut off in 96 park ave [holdcannon]
Dec 30, 2011 (9:10 am)
hello I was wondering what the problem was I have the same problem please help
#397 of 463 2001 Buick Park Avenue
Jan 10, 2012 (8:26 am)
Our car is hesitating during shifting and when accelerating has a bogged down feel. The RPM gauge floats up and down during this. The check engine soon light is also on. My husband stopped by an auto store and they scanned it and said it gave a general catalytic converter code. Anyone have any more specific ideas on what it could be? Or does it sound like the catalytic converter needs to be replaced? Letting off the gas pedal and easing it back down was helping, however, the problem has escalated over time. Thanks!
#398 of 463 Short term total power loss on '99 Buick Park Avenue
Jan 17, 2012 (8:05 am)
After a normal use of the car I pull into my garage and turnied off the ignition. I noticed that the radio went off before I opeined the door which was very unusual. When I tried to open the trunk with the remote it wouldn't open and when I went back and opened the car door I noticed the overhead security lights didn't come on. I realized then that I had a total power loss. I went into the house to think about things and a few minutes later I went out to figure out what was wrong. Much to my surprise the car started on the first try and all appeared normal. The failure acted like some sort of ciruit protection interruped power and when things cooled off power was restored.
Concerned about the possibilty of something that might start a fire I moved the car of the garage and looked under the hood for loose conections and everything seemed normal. I put the car back into the garage. When I drove the car a few hours later I noticed a once per second clicking sound from the drivers side underdash which lasted for several minutes. I have heard this sound occasionally over the years but have never had a power failure assoicated with it.
After reading several posts about problems envolving the auto headlight control I know that when I enter the garage my auto headlights come on. Although I didn't specifically notice at the time my headlights probably came on when had the power failure and I think they came on later when I heard the clicking sound.
What is the likely cause of this momentary failure and what can I do to avoid it and the concern that the next power might not be restored?.
#399 of 463 2000 PA dies on interstate
Jan 27, 2012 (8:54 am)
2000 Park Avenue with 186,000 miles. A week ago, while driving on the interstate, it quit and I coasted to a stop. Repair shop replaced the battery and tightened the cables. They checked the alternator and it was fine. Ran fine for several days after, but I did not have it on the interstate. Several days ago, while driving to work on the interstate, it quit again, like first time. I coasted to a stop. Had it towed to the same repair shop. Shop could not get it to stay running, but finally pushed it in. Now, car will start and stays running for an hour. Shop can't duplicate the problem, even when they take it on the interstate. Fuel pump pressure is good and computer is not showing any codes that would indicate problems with the oxygen mixture.
Other known problems are: struts and shocks need replacing, front wheel bearings need replacing, engine mounts look to need replacing, ABS light remains lit(has for several years...no braking issues), fuel gauge sensor in fuel tank is going bad and indicates wrong fuel gauge readings. The shop does not believe any of these items is related to the car quitting. Shop had a GM Master Mechanic check it out and he said it was fine and not sure why it would quit like that.
Any advice would be appreciated.
#400 of 463 Re: 2000 PA dies on interstate [bowecho7]
Jan 27, 2012 (9:52 am)
Most likely a crank position sensor. (CKP) Y2k models seem to have the largest problem with this part failure, according to what I've read.
It's a pretty common problem, not sure why a GM MM wouldn't have known.
It's about a $30 part at your local autoparts store + labor. I've known some mechanics to install for $50, but that is probably below normal rate.
I agree none of the other issues you listed would be the culprit.
Unfortunately the problem shows up intermittantly, but will get worse over time until it won't restart right away, it may pause for 15 mins.
In the past I just put the car in neutral (very carefully ) , restarted the car, and dropped it back into drive. Probably not as safe as pulling over and stopping, but if there isn't anywhere to pull over, it is an option that works.
I'm 99.94% sure that will fix it and you will go back to being comfortable in relying on it.
#401 of 463 Re: Hot and Cold air conditioning [buckosmom]
Feb 03, 2012 (12:32 pm)
Did you ever fix this problem with the air conditioner?PLMK