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Buick Park Avenue
#375 of 460 problems with theft system
Mar 29, 2011 (8:35 am)
We have a 1995 PA that the auto theft system keeps going off for no reason. We bought it used, so we do not have the owners manual on how to deactivate it. We would hit the horn until it went off, but now the horn is stuck and won't go off. Does anyone have an idea of what the dealer is going to charge to fix this as our mechanic said it's more involved than being able to just cut a wire, since we don't care about having a theft system anyway.
#376 of 460 Re: interior dome lamps wont go out [rbuzard]
Jun 15, 2011 (1:44 pm)
I'm having the same problem.. with a presidential edition 96 buick park ave.... whatever that means..... I see that no one has answered this question.. it seems that no where on the internet can anyone get a real solution to this problem. What's the dang hold up??
With my car, I replaced the lift actuator for the trunk and afterwards the int. lights will not go off like they're supposed to. After the 10 min. limit they go off but when I shut the door, click lock on the key fob, and put the car in drive.... they stay on. When you unlock on the key fob it's supposed to turn on all the lights outside for a brief time... only the regular headlights come on (not the parking lights) and they only stay on for a few seconds.. inside there's a panel above my mirror on the roof that has several labels for each light that it monitors... my tail lights one is lit up yet both of my tail lights work fine. The slide controls that deal with the twilight and brightness/int constant on... are all set to normal positions.. but this stuff is still having issues. Can ANYONE please answer this?
#377 of 460 need help with electrical problem
Jun 18, 2011 (9:30 am)
1994 buick park avenue fully loaded.
okay, my buick started off fine, then about 6 months ago, the battery just started draining. sometimes, it would take a couple of days, but since the battery's got warn down, it now takes a few hour to go dead. i replaced the battery 2 times.(big waste of money lol) the car will start, but it needs to receive a jump to do so. it will run with the battery unplugged, so its not the alternator. the vats system acts up to. like sometimes it will take me 10-20 minutes to start it cause of that. when i try to start it when its dying, it makes a strange very fast clicking sound in the relays. and the ac turns on when it wont start aswell. when it does start, everything is fine except for the light indicator(the thingy that tells u when a bulb is out). the 8 red lights on it blink fast. i checked all the bulbs, they are all fine. someone told me that the computer under the dash could be bad, but i pulled that, and everything was fine. i even started it without the entire computer hooked up, and it made no difference to anything. my buick sat for a few months, due to lack of money. but i have the money now, and i really want to get this thing running correctly. any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advanced.
#378 of 460 Re: Electric drain in 94 Park Avenue [imidazol97]
Jun 18, 2011 (7:38 pm)
the rear strut line broke, which is what i thought was causing the drain, but it didnt make any difference. its been unplugged for months. the blower motor i have heard on after i turned the car off, but not very often. and the throttle has slight instability when i first turn it on(slight revving, plus kicking when i put it in drive). if this is the problem, how could i go about repairing it?
#379 of 460 Re: 1994 Buick Park Avenue [lorlyn]
Aug 29, 2011 (8:33 pm)
I would take it by your local auto store, most of them will get their Actron Scan tool and scan it for you for free, they will let you know whatever code it has stored.
As for your stall problem..
I take it you are over 100k miles?
If so have you ever had your fuel filter changed?
I'd do that, and then have all 6 of those fuel injectors swapped for some re-manufactured ones.
That or have a shop flush them professionally for you, I'm betting you will notice a big difference after getting this done.
I say this because I had a similar stall problem for years, and I found out I had two bad injectors, my car was at 134k when it finally died due to the fuel injectors.
As for the car wanting to go on its own, I read about that somewhere, I believe it may have to do with the Idle Air Control Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor, or maybe it was the Mass Airflow Sensor.
The IAC & MAF can be easily cleaned off if they are a bit carbon fouled.
Just throwing some ideas out there, I am no mechanic, so maybe somebody else out there knows how to better help you.
#380 of 460 Re: Help [bluechi286]
Aug 29, 2011 (8:47 pm)
They had to mean the MAF Sensor as imidazol97 mentioned.
That will be attached to the throttle body, and should be easy to remove, it should have 2-3 screws.
It can be cleaned with MAF Cleaner available at any auto part store, just DO NOT touch the little metal elements you will see once you remove it, or damage them in any way.
I'd also consider having the EGR cleaned, as imidazol had another good suggestion, I have a 96' Park Ave and had some rough idle issue for a long time, I found out my MAF was a little dirty, my EGR was occasionally sticking open due to so much carbon build up.
I also had a Idle Air Control Valve that was carbon fouled, so you may want to have it cleaned as well.
Here is a pic of what it looks like.
Last, but not least, if the car has over 100k miles on it, consider having the fuel injectors flushed, if not swapped out for 6 re-manufactured ones, you should be able to get 6 of them for 160.00-180.00.
#381 of 460 PO-401 (Smog test) that cant be fixed?
Sep 19, 2011 (9:23 pm)
Hi guys, I have a gorgeous diamond white 2000 Ultra with all options, and about 115K on the clock, and its great, but several weeks ago it lost the #3 fuel injector and set that code, so into the shop it went. They replaced the injector and also fixed a small oil leak they found by replacing the intake manifold, and S.C.gasket, they also did a coolant flush.
Now the problem started, on the way home from the shop, and the car running great, it set the code PO-401. My tester reads that as "EGR insufficient flow" (This is a first). So back it went to the repair and smog shop. After 3 weeks in the shop, they say its operating fine, including the EGR system, but the computer will reset the PO-401 ever time its driven. GM has no computer flash (re-programing ?) for this code.
Everything in the EGR system was replaced, some items twice, plus all lines cleaned. Even the intake manifold was removed again to make sure the new gaskets were not at fault.
It has never had a PO-401 code before.
Any ideas? I live in Calif and must find a solution.
#382 of 460 Re: PO-401 (Smog test) that cant be fixed? [mike598]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Sep 20, 2011 (7:34 am)
check for leaks in the exhaust system
check for clogged inlet or outlet ports TO the EGR.
Check for the following conditions:
Vacuum restriction to the MAP sensor. A restriction to the MAP sensor can cause the EGR flow test to fail due to insufficient MAP changes being monitored during the test. Check for objects blocking the vacuum to the MAP sensor. Also check for kinked or pinched MAP sensor vacuum hoses (if equipped.)
Poor connection at PCM or EGR Valve. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the actual EGR position display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the EGR valve. A change in the display will indicate the location of the malfunction.
#383 of 460 How to put in pass. side window channel rubber on 98' buick park ave.
Sep 27, 2011 (10:46 am)
I think I found the right window channel rubber for my 98' park ave. passenger side but want to know how to change it out first so it will work right( I had a tec.. at collision specialists install one on driver side related to a collision) but I got laid off recently and need to do it myself. The window that was fixed used to jump out and raise with trouble till this was done. That's all that was changed on that door.
#384 of 460 Re: 1982 PARK AVENUE A/C PROBLEM? [wickedman]
Sep 28, 2011 (11:01 am)
I have the same car. You just need to find a mechanic that knows how to do it. It is not worth fixing to him, because it will probably cost what the car is worth. I would fix it for my mother.
Anyways, if you ever want to sell the car in the future please email me.
my email is diputs5643aol.com