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Buick Park Avenue
#370 of 463 1994 Buick Park Avenue
Jan 21, 2011 (5:32 pm)
I took my car in on December 30, 2010. I received it back 6 days later and it was not working right. I took it back before I drove home with it and they kept it another 2 days and said everything was working fine. I drove it one day and it started to do the same thing - driving itself, revving the engine whether in drive or parked, speedometer stopped working, would have my foot on the brake pedal and you could feel it wanting to go. I had never had this problem before until after I got it back from this new repair shop I took it to. I called them and they came and got it the next morning and I have not had the car back and they tell us now it is in need of a computer and so he is searching for a used one to save me money, but it is going on the 4th week since I took my car into this shop. I have never had such problems getting my car fixed, I am questioning if this is even what is wrong with it. I took it in originally because it would die on me before I would get out of the yard at home and/or die at an intersection while waiting for the light to turn red and then it would act as if it wanted to cut out when I would drive it to town. They replaced the spark plug wires and they looked like they needed replacing, as well as the ignition coil and said it was fixed, but there was still a code that kept coming up that they could find nothing for the cause of that code and told me it was nothing to worry about it was still driveable. Well, it was not driveable and my brother-in-law said that there should never be a code left - something is still wrong with it. I wanted to take it somewhere else, but my father insisted it needed to be returned to this place for them to make it right. My life is in limbo because I have no idea how much it is going to cost me when I do finally get the call to come pick it up. I wish I had taken it somewhere else now. Has anyone ever experienced this problem and are they finally onto the right thing about the computer being replaced or could it be something else? They did not tell me the code it was still showing them. Any help or advice would be appreciated. Thank you! Lori
Jan 27, 2011 (4:08 pm)
My fiancÚ just bought a 1990 Buick either Electra Park Ave. or a Park Ave. (we're not entirely sure). The problem that we are having seems to be fuel regulation issues. The car drives really rough, especially when you are stopped or changing gears. When changing gears you have to be pressing on the gas as well as the brake so that the car doesn't stall. We were told, by the previous owner, that all it needed was a MAP sensor. But every autoparts store we go to tells us that the car doesn't require one. Any ideas on what's wrong with the car?
#373 of 463 Re: Help [bluechi286]
Jan 28, 2011 (6:27 am)
Did the person suggest MAF sensor? Those gave troubles at times. Tap on it while the engine is running with a screwdriver handle and if the vibration causes a bobble in the engine, yours may be faulty. Try removing the connector and starting the motor to see if that helps the idle.
Replace with a Delco brand. Off market MAFs have given lots of troubles. They can be cleaned with sprays if they are just dirty. Do not touch the wires inside them that the air cools to measure air flow.
You could need to clean the EGR which might not be closing all the way. It affects the air flow and balance if it doesn't stall the motor.
How is the fuel pressure from the fuel pump in the tank?
#374 of 463 Re: 1994 Buick Park Avenue [lorlyn]
Jan 28, 2011 (10:01 am)
Your going to think I'm crazy but, have you checked the coolant level. I've been fighting the problem with my 90 P/A stalling at intersections for 2 years. I changed the coolant sensor because it seemed to act worse in different temperatures. Now I'm noticing the heat coming and going so I decided to dump in some coolant and sure enough it took 3 quarts and still isn't full. The coolant sensor is on top of the engine probably at the highest point in the cooling system. A great place for an air pocket.
#375 of 463 problems with theft system
Mar 29, 2011 (7:35 am)
We have a 1995 PA that the auto theft system keeps going off for no reason. We bought it used, so we do not have the owners manual on how to deactivate it. We would hit the horn until it went off, but now the horn is stuck and won't go off. Does anyone have an idea of what the dealer is going to charge to fix this as our mechanic said it's more involved than being able to just cut a wire, since we don't care about having a theft system anyway.
#376 of 463 Re: interior dome lamps wont go out [rbuzard]
Jun 15, 2011 (12:44 pm)
I'm having the same problem.. with a presidential edition 96 buick park ave.... whatever that means..... I see that no one has answered this question.. it seems that no where on the internet can anyone get a real solution to this problem. What's the dang hold up??
With my car, I replaced the lift actuator for the trunk and afterwards the int. lights will not go off like they're supposed to. After the 10 min. limit they go off but when I shut the door, click lock on the key fob, and put the car in drive.... they stay on. When you unlock on the key fob it's supposed to turn on all the lights outside for a brief time... only the regular headlights come on (not the parking lights) and they only stay on for a few seconds.. inside there's a panel above my mirror on the roof that has several labels for each light that it monitors... my tail lights one is lit up yet both of my tail lights work fine. The slide controls that deal with the twilight and brightness/int constant on... are all set to normal positions.. but this stuff is still having issues. Can ANYONE please answer this?
#377 of 463 need help with electrical problem
Jun 18, 2011 (8:30 am)
1994 buick park avenue fully loaded.
okay, my buick started off fine, then about 6 months ago, the battery just started draining. sometimes, it would take a couple of days, but since the battery's got warn down, it now takes a few hour to go dead. i replaced the battery 2 times.(big waste of money lol) the car will start, but it needs to receive a jump to do so. it will run with the battery unplugged, so its not the alternator. the vats system acts up to. like sometimes it will take me 10-20 minutes to start it cause of that. when i try to start it when its dying, it makes a strange very fast clicking sound in the relays. and the ac turns on when it wont start aswell. when it does start, everything is fine except for the light indicator(the thingy that tells u when a bulb is out). the 8 red lights on it blink fast. i checked all the bulbs, they are all fine. someone told me that the computer under the dash could be bad, but i pulled that, and everything was fine. i even started it without the entire computer hooked up, and it made no difference to anything. my buick sat for a few months, due to lack of money. but i have the money now, and i really want to get this thing running correctly. any help would be much appreciated. thanks in advanced.
#378 of 463 Re: Electric drain in 94 Park Avenue [imidazol97]
Jun 18, 2011 (6:38 pm)
the rear strut line broke, which is what i thought was causing the drain, but it didnt make any difference. its been unplugged for months. the blower motor i have heard on after i turned the car off, but not very often. and the throttle has slight instability when i first turn it on(slight revving, plus kicking when i put it in drive). if this is the problem, how could i go about repairing it?
#379 of 463 Re: 1994 Buick Park Avenue [lorlyn]
Aug 29, 2011 (7:33 pm)
I would take it by your local auto store, most of them will get their Actron Scan tool and scan it for you for free, they will let you know whatever code it has stored.
As for your stall problem..
I take it you are over 100k miles?
If so have you ever had your fuel filter changed?
I'd do that, and then have all 6 of those fuel injectors swapped for some re-manufactured ones.
That or have a shop flush them professionally for you, I'm betting you will notice a big difference after getting this done.
I say this because I had a similar stall problem for years, and I found out I had two bad injectors, my car was at 134k when it finally died due to the fuel injectors.
As for the car wanting to go on its own, I read about that somewhere, I believe it may have to do with the Idle Air Control Sensor, the Throttle Position Sensor, or maybe it was the Mass Airflow Sensor.
The IAC & MAF can be easily cleaned off if they are a bit carbon fouled.
Just throwing some ideas out there, I am no mechanic, so maybe somebody else out there knows how to better help you.