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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

295 messages,  Last post on Nov 18, 2009 at 6:47 AM

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#289 of 295 Re: 2004 Park Ave - 75000 Recommended Maintenance [chrisptown1] by imidazol97 Nov 01, 2009 (9:03 am)
Replying to: chrisptown1 (Oct 31, 2009 2:28 pm) If the color is still an orange that means you have DexCool in it. It may have a slight cloudiness with a brown substance which was put in as an antileak in the form of pellets or a ground organic material that will clog seep locations and seal them up.   I would have the coolant drained and refilled yesterday, even if you can't do it yourself like I do. I would get the old DexCool out, even though it most likely isn't causing you any problems. I would refill with fresh DexCool OR the equivalent by Prestone called Mixes with All Colors, which is a slight green color. Both bottles show the same active ingredients. I don't think it makes an difference to the seals in the motor's upper intake manifold and throttle body area that did develop some leaks due to coolant contact with the original DexCool formula back in 1997 or slightly later before the formula was changed.   I would replace whichever you put in every two years or 35,000 miles, just like in the good old days. Maybe 3 years if you put lots of longer highway miles on it where the entire cooling system runs hot and circulates everything.   Expressly, I changed out the DexCool in my 03 leSabre at 60K at the 2nd drain and refill. I rinsed 3 times with water and got most of the DexCool out so the coolant was clear after running up to temperature and draining. I put in the Mixes with All Colors. Note I did a previous change an put in new DexCool back in 05 (car was 2.5 years old). My 1998 is still running on DexCool after I changed the UIM at 150K and put on an aftermarket type. I did not have to change lower intake coolant seals against the heads--yet. And I don't expect to do so, even though the car had DexCool its whole life.   What you don't want is a low coolant level in the radiator which allows air to mix with the circulating antifreeze. The air and earlier DexCool caused some deterioration and sludging especially on cars where someone added old style green antifreeze--the original non long life type. Checking water level in the radiator also catches any early leaks that may develop in the pre2000 motors at the EGR passage in the Upper Intake Manifold or at the throttle body passage seals with the UIM. Sometimes the loss of coolant doesn't suck back in coolant from the reservoir so the radiator starts getting low without the coolant reserve tank dropping. So occasionally check the radiator--when cool--to be sure it's full.
#290 of 295 Re: Park Avenue dies while braking [jobug6] by nbeahm Nov 05, 2009 (4:37 am)
Replying to: jobug6 (Oct 25, 2009 4:38 pm) I initially had this same problem. It ended up being simply plugs and wires. I replaced them and it ran great. Now, several months later, it is dying and sputters every now and then. My thinking is it's the fuel pump filter clogged. I had changed the fuel filter under the car prior to replacing the plugs and wires. It doesn't seem to be electrical, so I'm going to drop the tank on 11-7-09. I'll post an update afterwards. Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Nov 05, 2009 6:01 am)
#291 of 295 Re: Park Avenue dies while braking [nbeahm] by imidazol97 Nov 05, 2009 (6:01 am)
Replying to: nbeahm (Nov 05, 2009 4:37 am) I would check the EGR valve. Remove and clean it. it may be sticking open slightly as you slow down and causing a stall. You might remove the electrical connector and drive the car on a day it's exhibiting that symptom and see if not having the EGR work my fix the problem. It may set an engine code, but that will erase eventually or you can have one of the box stores erase it with the reader. I believe the local Oreilly Auto Parts loans readers (I think that company uses other names in other parts of the country).   You also should remove the MAF sensor and clean with an air intake safe cleaner or better a MAF sensor cleaner spray. I also used a soft camel hair artists type brush to lightly help remove "lint" from the wire. If you look closely it may look like an electrical charge has attracted fuzz to the wires in the MAF. Dry it and put it back on. The home test is to remove the connector for the MAf and start the car. But since yours only occasionally gives symptoms and isn't running poorly at start, that's not an option. The guy next door had a 3800 Gran Prix that would die or run poorly at times. Replaced MAF and it was fine.   Unless your fuel tank has an opening in the trunk to change out fuel pump AND your fuel pump has shown low pressure, i sure wouldn't do a fuel pump. See if an Autozone or Oreilly will loan you fuel pressure gauges with a long hose and connect it and tape to windshield on outside with duct tape and drive the car until it sputters and see if the fuel pressure dropped at that time.   If it's the fuel sock on the fuel pump, that would show in your gauge work also. That is rare but usually sucks gook onto the sock more as it runs a longer time and then when car stalls and suction stops, the gook falls away allow better pressure again. Just doesn't fit here. If I thought I had goop in tank, I'd do a couple of strong Techron Fuel System Cleaner dosings when tank is almost empty. The high concentration of cleaner added before adding fuel should dissolve a lot of nonparticulate forms of accumlated stuff in the tank.
#292 of 295 Gas gauge needle flipped over by bowfan Nov 10, 2009 (6:59 pm)
There have been a number of posts about the fuel / gas gauge needle flipping around clockwise when the battery is disconnected or too low. The needle ends up stuck underneath the empty tank side pin.   Some of the repair options have been to drill a small hole in the instrument cluster cover by the fuel gauge and use a paper clip to flip it back up, or use a magnet to draw the needle back around to the top side, or disassembling the instrument cluster and flipping it back up with your finger.   I don't know what the actual issue is, whether a capacitor is failing or some other electrical component, so I can't offer any advice on repair of the actual cause. But I have another workaround.   I personally didn't want to drill a hole in the gauge cover, and the magnet trick wouldn't work for me. I ended up pulling the cover off, and flipping it back, but after doing it more than once, I wanted a permanent solution. I noticed in some of the newer models (especially the Ultras, 2002 on up) they have now put a pin on the right ( full tank ) side of the fuel gauge, I assume to prevent it from flipping all the way over. Hmmm... redesign?   I decided to imitate the 2002 model and make a pin to the right to prevent it from flipping over again. repair pics here along with pic of the factory 2002 Ultra pin.   Any of the methods may work for you, this is just another option to choose from.
#293 of 295 Trunk leak? by phillychoppin Nov 14, 2009 (11:23 am)
I just purchased a 2004 Park Avenue. When I got it home I noticed about 3 inches of water in the spare tire well in the trunk.   I called the dealer and they said it was probably the trunk gasket.   Is this a known issue with these cars?   Thanks for any help!!! Replies to this message: cruiser59 (Nov 17, 2009 2:56 pm) imidazol97 (Nov 18, 2009 6:47 am)
#294 of 295 Re: Trunk leak? [phillychoppin] by cruiser59 Nov 17, 2009 (2:56 pm)
Replying to: phillychoppin (Nov 14, 2009 11:23 am) I had the same issue, but with not as much water depth as you had. The solution was to replace with adhesive the entire gasket, problem solved. I'm in S Florida where it doesn't rain, but torrents in the wet season.   Let me know how you make out. Check Ebay first for replacement gaskets, the dealer will kill you on pricing.   Good luck. Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Nov 18, 2009 6:47 am)
#295 of 295 Re: Trunk leak? [cruiser59] by imidazol97 Nov 18, 2009 (6:47 am)
Replying to: cruiser59 (Nov 17, 2009 2:56 pm) >Check Ebay first for replacement gaskets   Also gmpartdirect.com rockauto.com

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