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Sedans Buick Park Avenue Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair
297 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 10:57 AM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
| I am replacing the rear shocks and I also will be replacing the sway bar bushings and links. Are there any other items that i need to be concerned with on the rear suspension, also are there any instructions or diagrams available for this procedure. Thanks, Brian | |
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| recently purchased the above i can seem to get any heat out the rear vents above the console. any ideas? thanks. | |
Hi, my 94 Buick Park Avenue just had its fuel regulator replaced because it was sort of jerking occassionally while driving at highway speeds. After that was fixed, it seemed to drive OK, except at around 1500 rpm, it would sort of shudder and jerk lightly. The mechanic said he would check it, but before I could get it in there, it started dying while braking, but only once in a while. (It is hard for me to get time off work to leave my car, so I put off going back to the mechanic.) I watch the alternator indicator and it doesn't go one way or the other. The car just dies with no notice or noise or anything. Suddenly no power steering. Fortunately, the times it has done this is either right before stopping or as I slow way down to make a turn. Today however, it was totally dead when I tried to start it. Click, click, click. The second time, I tried, it made a metal clanking noise. I got a jump and it started right up, drove quite well for a trip, but as I approached home, slowed down to stop at a traffic light, it died. The battery and alternator were replaced last winter. Also, the computer module was replaced last winter. Any help appreciated.
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Replying to: jobug6 (Oct 25, 2009 4:38 pm) The problem could be an alternator. The voltage indicator should go higher like 15-16 volts when you start the car after sitting and then drop gradually to about 13.5 - 14 volts after a period of time running. The stalling could be the EGR valve sticking or dirty. They stay open due to crud or sticking keeping them from closing which causes a poor idle and stalling. Then they will often restart just fine. The stalling could be a crankshaft position sensor. Lots of those are failing. A MAF sensor that is dirty measures the incoming air wrong and causes stalling and various problems. Because the car started right up with a jump, I'd suspect an alternator not charging the battery or a defective battery. But you said the needle doesn't change and it should be at 14 or so instead of at 12.6 when the car is not running. Somewhere like Walmart can check a battery and alternator and their hours may be long enough you can get in. |
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i have a 91 buick park ave, the rear brakes recently started sounding like the wheel of fortune when i hit the brakes, it sounds just like the wheel as it spins. it has a drum system but someone said i probably just need shoes for it. i have no idea but i hope you do. i was driving the other day and it started smoking out of the dash. kinda more on the pass side, but it smelt like anti freeze and even before that i would always get a wif of anti freeze. i was told my heater core was going out but i was then also told to check the thermostat. i know nothing about cars except that when i had the issue with my crankshaft you guys helped me and my car was fixed with your advice. so here i am again. looking for some help. along with those issues i cant get my vents on the dash to work, i never have been able to figure it out. i used the owners man to help but nothing worked. please write back and let me know what you think.
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Replying to: karmaboo (Oct 26, 2009 7:47 am) heater cores do start to seep. Then the leak gets bigger. If you're smelling antifreeze, it's time to get it replaced after checking to verify the smell is from the heater core and NOT from a leak in water pump or hoses and so on under the hood. Those can give antifreeze smells that get sucked into the air intake just behind the hood and the smell comes into the passenger compartment also. The vents on the dash operate by vacuum. Check under the hood for a small vacuum reservoir with a tube going to it from the upper intake manifold area. The small rubber tube carries vacuum to the reservoir. Do any of the controls change the setting, say heater blows out the bottom? If not, then most likely you've lost all vacuum. Rubber tubes rot with age and heat and crack. Also it may just have been pulled off the reservoir connection when someone did sparkplugs or other work under the hood.
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Oct 26, 2009 8:57 am) |
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Replying to: bowfan (Jul 15, 2009 4:57 am)  90k. this doesn't sound right. what is your experience. i live in Northern Maine (cold) if that makes a difference. thanks. all you guys are a lifesaver. 
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Replying to: chrisptown1 (Oct 31, 2009 2:28 pm) I would have the coolant drained and refilled yesterday, even if you can't do it yourself like I do. I would get the old DexCool out, even though it most likely isn't causing you any problems. I would refill with fresh DexCool OR the equivalent by Prestone called Mixes with All Colors, which is a slight green color. Both bottles show the same active ingredients. I don't think it makes an difference to the seals in the motor's upper intake manifold and throttle body area that did develop some leaks due to coolant contact with the original DexCool formula back in 1997 or slightly later before the formula was changed. I would replace whichever you put in every two years or 35,000 miles, just like in the good old days. Maybe 3 years if you put lots of longer highway miles on it where the entire cooling system runs hot and circulates everything. Expressly, I changed out the DexCool in my 03 leSabre at 60K at the 2nd drain and refill. I rinsed 3 times with water and got most of the DexCool out so the coolant was clear after running up to temperature and draining. I put in the Mixes with All Colors. Note I did a previous change an put in new DexCool back in 05 (car was 2.5 years old). My 1998 is still running on DexCool after I changed the UIM at 150K and put on an aftermarket type. I did not have to change lower intake coolant seals against the heads--yet. And I don't expect to do so, even though the car had DexCool its whole life. What you don't want is a low coolant level in the radiator which allows air to mix with the circulating antifreeze. The air and earlier DexCool caused some deterioration and sludging especially on cars where someone added old style green antifreeze--the original non long life type. Checking water level in the radiator also catches any early leaks that may develop in the pre2000 motors at the EGR passage in the Upper Intake Manifold or at the throttle body passage seals with the UIM. Sometimes the loss of coolant doesn't suck back in coolant from the reservoir so the radiator starts getting low without the coolant reserve tank dropping. So occasionally check the radiator--when cool--to be sure it's full. |
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Replying to: jobug6 (Oct 25, 2009 4:38 pm)
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