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Sedans Buick Park Avenue Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair
298 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 3:08 PM
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Replying to: jakej_mn (May 19, 2009 9:43 am) |
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Replying to: bowfan (Dec 09, 2007 6:06 pm) My car: 1998 BPA, 270,000 miles, gran touring susp. My window returned to it's former behavior of rolling down extremely slow during wet weather, and after a while it quit working completely - although you could hear the motor turning and making a grinding noise. Obviously some sort of nylon gear probably wore out. I looked up the details on the window motor and turns out the left side power window motors (front & rear) are identical and the right side motors match too. (*footnote Rockauto lists the front/left and rear/right as the same units, and vice versa but I have not found that to be the case) With this info I went to a local "pull it yourself" junk yard and found a similar car (these motors are used in more than one model - Caddy, Chevy..etc ) and picked up one out of a rear left door which I felt would normally be unused in a southern luxury car... compared it to mine to match it. *The r/r did not match my f/l. The replacement procedure is as simple as any window motor I've replaced. You don't have to tape or prop up the window, you pretty much remove the interior door panel, unplug the electrical connectors, remove the weather seal, remove the (3) 10mm bolts, pull the motor - the window stays in place. While you have it open spray lube on the hinge or pivot point of the power window regulator as well as the nylon wheel tracks. I feel the hinge is actually the point that is causing the slow rolldown, as after it was sprayed with lube I could move the window up and down while the motor was out. Before spraying it, it was very difficult to move the window up or down by hand at all. Next replace with the new motor, reassemble the seal, electrical connectors, and door panel, and you should be good to go. As my father's 2001 was behaving the same (slow on rainy days), we simply swapped his rear motor with the front motor and lubed the hinge and it is moving strong again. Again, in hindsight, I really feel the dry hinge is the problem part. It seems to build up corrosion or crud. After lubing, the window regulator swivels easier. I suspect this procedure would be the same for '97 thru '05 models. |
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Replying to: jakej_mn (Aug 01, 2008 5:04 pm) update 1 update 2 end of story |
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I change the oil every 3-4000 miles and rotate the tires every 6-8000 miles. Firestone is recommending that I replace upper & lower radiator hoses ($257), Transmission Fluid Flush ($170), Tuneup 6 Cyl ($124), Replace Fuel filter ($92) and do fuel system tun up - Ever-Wear Fuel system cleaner ($90). The manual that I have doesn't give much detail about normal maintenance other than oil change and tire rotation. Does anyone have more detail? I love this car and want to keep it as long as I can. |
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Replying to: ginny55 (Jul 14, 2009 2:56 pm) I just changed the top radiator hose on my 1998 (built in Dec 97). It has started to slightly swell near the thermostat. That's the hottest end and it deteriorates the most. It cost under $20 for a Dayco brand at PepBoys. I installed it myself. The lower hose is colder and I'm watching it because it's hardened some. This car is 11 years old. Yours is 4. Think you need hoses? I doubt it. Transmission fluid should have been drained and refilled every 36000 miles in my opinion. Manual says 100,000 or never. I do not recommend flushing. Have an independent shop drain, replace filter with Purolator $20, and refill with Dexron VI fluid. It also can use Dexron III which it came with. The Dexron VI is more like synthetic. Supertech brand at Walmart is what I used in my 03 and it was $2.79 quart. It takes 7 quarts. Tuneup may be anything. There is no tuneup any more. Replace plugs and wires at 100,000 or earlier. I'd do them about 80K. Fuel filter is most likely under the passenger side rear area inside the frame rail. It screws on at one end and has a snap on plastic fitting at the other. Cost $15? labor time about 15 minutes for a skilled mechanic. Wearever Fuel cleaner? Go buy a bottle of Techron by Chevron at Walmart, $5.95 12 oz., or Advance Auto parts, Autozone, or PepBoys. One may have a buy 1 get one free. There's a 12 ox for up to 12 gallons and a 20 oz for up to 20 gallons. Add to an almost empty tank and fill with premium. Then 2 or 3 tanks later repeat. your tank holds 18 gallons when filled. Find a new service place. Also drain your antifreeze, which is DexCool, and replace with fresh. That's the most critical on the list and they didn't even mention it. Maybe because it's work. Replace DexCool every 2 - 2.5 years just like the old style antifreezes. |
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Replying to: ginny55 (Jul 14, 2009 2:56 pm) Also check the cabin air filter which is likely on top of the cowl when the hood is open, in front of the windshield wipes. I'm not sure of the physical layout of your specific car but it usually is an 8 by 12 rectangle with two little snaps that hold it down. Under it is a slide in and out air filter for the air entering the heater blower. Pull the old one out and look at it. If it's dust covered and smells moldy... I replaced with Purolator for about $16. I have tried washing and bleaching and replacing, but it just doesn't freshen up. The Purolator filter for the cabin says "Made in USA" in case you wonder why I usually buy that brand--PepBoys has them in my area. |
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Jul 15, 2009 4:11 am) As to replacing the radiator hoses, do what you feel comfortable with. If you travel cross-country a lot (crossing Death Valley gets hot), you may have it done for peace of mind, but as Imizadol97 said, the hoses really do last a long time. I finally replaced mine when my radiator gave out around 230,000 miles. They weren't leaking, I just did it to match the new radiator. Mine were probably around 10 years old. There are two trains of thought on the trans flush. I belong to the group that feels it doesn't hurt to flush, even high mileage cars. I did mine once when it had around 165,000 and again around 265,000. Original trans still... That price for the flush sounds high to me. I'd expect it to be around $79-89. Fuel filter is a quick swap of a $10 part, so personally $92 sounds high, but if you aren't a DIY'r, sometimes you just have to accept the parts and labor markup. Depending on your mileage, it may be a good thing to have done. You want the injectors to have a good flow of clean fuel that won't clog them up. 75,000 miles on your BPA? I can't recall what the recommended fuel filter replacement interval is. Have you checked the back of your owner's manual? I thought there were some tables in the front or back of the manual that stated intervals. Perhaps a separate maint guide in the case? How long since the last tune-up? I'm personally happy with 100,000 tuneups. These engines are very reliable. On the fuel system tune-up, if they actually connect the 1 pint cylinder device and run a high quality cleaner (like BG) directly thru your injectors using regulated compressed air then $90 sounds about right, but if they are just adding cleaner to the fuel tank, I agree you could do it yourself much cheaper and use the leftover $$ to fill your tank a time or two ..  I think you'll enjoy that car for a long time! |
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Replying to: bowfan (Jul 15, 2009 4:57 am) If it's like the leSabres, there is no replacement interval. It's just if there might be a problem with the filter's ability to flow fuel. Personally I use good grades gas, seldom buy at a questionable station. I replaced filter on 98 at 100,000 or higher. When dried the filter didn't allow air through easily. The new one, of course, did. A filter that has caught stuff and is partically restricted puts more work on the fuel pump is some posters' thinking. Cheap part; easy replacement by self if medium ability and have tools to hold metal line and the filter both. >Cabin air filter on this series BPA is under the dash I'd forgotten that. But I had read someone posting about that earlier. I like mine where it's a stand up job! Easier. For the transmission, do one or the other, but do something. 75,000 is far past a good service interval. I'd be most concerned about the quality of the fluid that goes back in to replace the current fluid. The shops doing the flush may not want to use the Dexron VI. I consider that like the oil used by quickie lubes where you don't really _know_ what the oil is quality wise. You are trusting them. Plugs and wires when they deteriorate may load the electronic spark control module more. But the iridium plugs used and the GM wires are good. |
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Replying to: bowfan (Jul 15, 2009 4:57 am) |
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