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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

300 messages,  Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 6:50 PM

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#253 of 300 Re: Temperature display blinks [dabo] by imidazol97 Apr 22, 2009 (11:41 am)
Replying to: dabo (Apr 21, 2009 11:38 am) When it flashes for 90 seconds after starting, that means in its self check upon startup it has found a fault. Early units were able to give some code information. I'll see if I can find out how for yours. It may be after the change or before the change. The difference in temperature sounds like it may be a bad or stuck actuator. There are two on my LeSAbre's unit and one moves a vane that changes the temp for the driver; the other moves a vane that changes the temp for the passenger.   I do not know the physical layout of yours, but I would guess it's similar to the leSabres earlier because the 93s shared the same Factory Service Manual.   Getting under the passenger side dash may allow you to turn on the AC controls and watch the links move under the dash.   Here's a link to the picture of a later but similarly laid out unit. No guarantees.   http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/0900823d8017f925-1.gif   Here's a photo of car without the dash. Notice the link on top saying blend door lever and actuator-the two are connected by a link to move the total temp lever for driver.   At bottom the arrow that says programmer goes here, look at the left end of the arrow, you'll see a foam piece and a plastic rod sticks out of the heater there and connects to a second metal rod from the actuator when it's in place. That's the motor link to drive the passenger temp vane inside the heater box.   The actuators have little plastic gears inside that can crack and slip. By changing temp on your controls with the key ON you should be able to see movement in both links to control the vanes.   http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/heatercorehousing9cn.jpg Replies to this message: dabo (Apr 24, 2009 4:33 am)
#254 of 300 Re: Temperature display blinks [imidazol97] by dabo Apr 24, 2009 (4:33 am)
Replying to: imidazol97 (Apr 22, 2009 11:41 am) Thanks ever so much. I'll check for proper operation. Do you know if the servos are motors or vacuum? I guess the old gal is trying to tell me she needs help. I suspect that you are correct in that the paddle actuators may not be working correctly. I suspect they are having an issue homing themselves on startup since the issue is at startup and the temperatures for each side are wacky when the system kicks in.   I'll leave a post to let you know. Thanks for the help.
#255 of 300 HVAC by imidazol97 Apr 24, 2009 (5:32 am)
The two little electric motors that move the blend doors to mix the hot air and normal air at the right side and are not vacuum.   The other doors, that close off the defroster to make air come out the vents, that close off the floor to force air up to defroster or open halfway for bilevel and windshield with floor, and that open to recirculate air from inside the car partly are all vacuum. They do not control the temperature at all. They have little plastic vacuum tubes that run from the programmer (heater computer) that's bolted on the corner of the heater box with one of the electric actuators inside.   If you take off the two plastic sound shields right and left, and spend some upside down time lying across the seat and get your head underneath the dash, you can check operation of lots of these parts by changing the heater controls with the key ON and the motor running to provide vacuum for those motors.
#256 of 300 Left Turn Signal by glibritz Apr 28, 2009 (8:44 am)
I own a 1998 Buick Park Ave Ultra with 106,000 miles (car runs very good). The left turn signal for the most part has stopped working. From time to time when I try using it, it blinks about four times and stops. My mechanic says that it might be the turn signal switch (which costs about $540.). He also says that he will not know for sure if it is the switch until he removes the steering wheel and airbag assembly (costly labor if it is not the switch). Two questions, if it is the switch, can one be purchased for less money? Next, instead of the switch, could the problem be caused by something else (the right signal does work). Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Apr 28, 2009 12:21 pm) laraann (May 10, 2009 8:50 am) glibritz (May 13, 2009 8:43 am) imidazol97 (May 13, 2009 12:55 pm) glibritz (May 16, 2009 4:35 pm)
#257 of 300 Re: Left Turn Signal [glibritz] by imidazol97 Apr 28, 2009 (12:21 pm)
Replying to: glibritz (Apr 28, 2009 8:44 am) I would be pulling the bulbs for the signal lights on the front and back and replacing both. Keep the old ones for spares. Then replace the side market lights.   Check the right side and you'll see the side marker light go on and off when the headlights are on along with the turn signal bulb flashing. How they are done on different years I don't recall. But I'd try replacing all the bulbs and making sure they make good contact in the seats. Hope it's working when you're done replacing 4 bulbs or so.
#258 of 300 Re: Left Turn Signal [glibritz] by laraann May 10, 2009 (8:50 am)
Replying to: glibritz (Apr 28, 2009 8:44 am) yes i would check bulbs first it could be that u are getting a loose connection. the socket could be getting worn. try using bulb grease this can help keep the connection . Replies to this message: glibritz (May 13, 2009 8:43 am)
#259 of 300 Re: Left Turn Signal [laraann] by glibritz May 13, 2009 (8:43 am)
Replying to: laraann (May 10, 2009 8:50 am) Thank you for your reply; I did forget to mention that the bulbs have been checked already by my mechanic (and I really trust him - if he could have fixed the problem that way, he would have). It looks as though I will have to buy a new turn signal switch through the manufacturer or dealer (its not an aftermarket part) and have it installed; as it is now, without a working left turn signal, the car will not pass inspection in 2010. Its a shame to have to pay about $800 ($546. for the part, plus at least $200-300 for labor) just to fix a left-turn signal; but what other options do I have; I do not see anymore.
#260 of 300 Re: Left Turn Signal [glibritz] by imidazol97 May 13, 2009 (12:55 pm)
Replying to: glibritz (Apr 28, 2009 8:44 am) If you are positive it's in the turn signal portion of the column, I believe it would be cheaper and easier to purchase a used column and replace the whole thing. Column replacement is fairly easy.   Try looking on car-parts.com which searches recycling yards everywhere--the whole country or more. I see quotes from $250 down to $50 and less for a column WITH key, so you don't have to redo the lock cylinder in the column. I got 12 pages of listed columns for your 1998 Park Avenue. They can be sorted by distance from your zip code or sorted by price. You can call many of the yards or just go stop in. Maybe they have a lower price if one is close and you're there rather than an internet customer.   Ask your mechanic how much labor to replace the column.   www.car-parts.com Replies to this message: glibritz (May 16, 2009 4:35 pm)
#261 of 300 Re: Left Turn Signal [imidazol97] by glibritz May 16, 2009 (4:35 pm)
Replying to: imidazol97 (May 13, 2009 12:55 pm) Hey, thank you for the idea. That sounds like a good place for me to start. I would never had thought of that; then again, that's why their are people like yourself who have the knowledge to think more creatively than us folks; I will post a follow-up in the near future on my progress; again, thank you imidazoI97.
#262 of 300 Re: 2000 Buick Park Avenue - Quits while running is fixed YEH!! [jakej_mn] by jakej_mn May 19, 2009 (9:43 am)
Replying to: jakej_mn (Oct 09, 2008 5:37 pm) Since my last post # 193 last Oct. - my Park Avenue has traveled more than 15,000 miles without a hitch. Thanks to those who suggested the crank sensor which cured the intermittent quiting problems. Just thought some might be interested. Jake Replies to this message: imidazol97 (May 19, 2009 11:37 am)

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