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Sedans Buick Park Avenue Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair
300 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 6:50 PM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: gtbrown66 (Jan 19, 2009 4:34 pm) The trickiest portion of the repair to me was removing the lock ring that holds the pump down into the tank. I'm sure there is a proper specialty tool to remove this, but I used a common brass drift punch and short throw hammer. You can see some pics to give you a rough idea how to remove it here Again, that is just to give you an idea. You don't actually remove the tank in the BPAs, just the access cover, lock-ring, and then the pump assembly. The pump assembly is under pressure from an internal spring and when removing the lock-ring or replacing the lock-ring, you will wish you had a 3rd hand. Please use caution as you will be venting gas fumes when you start to remove the pump itself and it is cramped quarters, but not impossible if you are a do-it-yourselfer. I did it...  There is a good write up that someone else did, as well as some helpful pics here: automotiveforums fuel pump replacement I forgot to take pics when I did it. It looks like the sensor assembly costs a little over $100 from gmpartsdirect.com, but I thought I'd seen the actual sensor part for a lot cheaper when taken from a GM truck tank. But unfortunately, memory is not what I need it to be, and I can't find a link to that thought. As the writeup says, use plenty of ventilation, a nice breezy day would be good. More tips: replace when the tank is near empty, and when you lift the pump assembly from the tank, do so slowly as the plastic unit holds a good bit of gas. You may also want to replace the sock filter while you have the pump out. Hope this helps, write back if anymore questions. Sorry about the delay in responding. Dont forget to write back with a success story!
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Replying to: bowfan (Jan 24, 2009 11:52 am) I would not recommend using a screwdriver as his photos show. The brass drift will not spark as "steel on steel" may. |
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| I just bought a 1994 Park Avenue (not Ultra) from an older lady. It only has 91000 miles but had set up for a while before I bought it (maybe a year) and the next day i noticed that it was hesitating when I would accelerate. Anyway it got worse and then wouldnt stay cranked. It would start but immediately cut off. I replaced all of the coil packs and the plate under them (i think it was called the ignition module) along with the fuel filter. Now it runs but is still cutting out at low rpms. Ive checked the air filter and am in the process of changing the spark plugs. I have all 3 in the front and 1 in the back. I cant get to the other two. I've heard something about an engine mount that would allow the engine to tilt but i have no idea where it is... Does anyone know anything about accessing the back spark plugs and so far with the 4 new plugs in its still skipping and if changing the plugs doesn't work, what next?? Any suggestions would really help.....Thanks | |
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Replying to: 94buickgrey (Feb 11, 2009 12:37 pm) |
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Replying to: jobug6 (Feb 11, 2009 3:38 pm)
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Replying to: jobug6 (Feb 11, 2009 3:38 pm) That sounds like a spark plug miss or a spark plug wire. If you have 13 years and the plugs and wires haven't been replaced in that time you definitely need wires. Get good brand Belden from NAPA or AC Delco replacements. Use the specified plugs for that year. Get the longer life iridium or platinum tip plugs. Check your wire routing and keep them away from the wire for the oxygen sensor on the back side of the motor. Check for jumping at the coil towers. Clean them. Remove the wires and check the tips for corrosion if they're fairly new. For the other problem, clean the battery cables completely. Turn off the auto HVAC with the key on to protect it during restart later. Remove the battery cables and check for corrosion. If your positive side has double cables, cut into the plastic covering and be sure there is not corrosion between them. There's a lead spacer between the cables. Sometimes the corrosion there will cause poor contact on one despite being tight.
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Replying to: 94buickgrey (Feb 11, 2009 4:45 pm) You need to check for power and for ground at the control in the door panel if it's set up the way I recall. Check the owners manual in the glovebox for fuses for power windows. There's a relay center on the firewall and the cover for that may list which large fuse there is for what. There also is a relay center and fuses on the passenger A-pillar. You take off a hush panel cover to get to it if I recall correctly. On top of the hush panel should be a diagram of which fuse and relay is which. I haven't looked at a manual for 94 PA but I suspect, suspect the ground buss that's at the A-pillar where the plastic goes horizontal under the door sill and carpet edge may, may be a ground for power windows. If they worked erratically I'd suspect the grounds but no power as you're saying indicates troubleshooting first to be sure power is getting to the wires in the door panel. The switch panel can be lifted; there are snaps at each end usually that can be released with a little pressure from a putty knife to lift. 
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Feb 12, 2009 5:42 am) |
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Good afternoon. I have a 1999 Buick PA with about 135,000 miles on it. For some time now my "Service Engine Soon" light has been on. My car, without much notice, will shut off whenever I stop at red lights, stop signs or slow down to turn corners. I took it to AZ and they put a little monitor beneath my dash board. It read "MAS" (Massive Airflow Sensor I believe). I bought the sensor, had it installed and the "Service ..." light went off - but only for about 1 week. Last Sunday, the second week since the light has been off, while driving to a store about 1.5 miles away all was fine. When I left the store, however, a block away my car seemed like it was gasping for air (more like choaking) and cut off. After four attempts to restart it (when I turned the key in the ignition, I would hear it come on but it would not stay on), I finally got it going. It has not gone off since that time, but now I need inspection and I know it won't pass because of that darn light. Also, I've had the car for about four years and it has had a tune-up maybe once during that time. Needless to say, I want it fixed for safety reasons, too! Thanks!
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Replying to: das1000me (Apr 01, 2009 9:19 am) I don't know all the symptoms of other things, but from what people have posted, I would check the EGR sticking open. One person had the driver unplug the EGR and drive the car to see if that fixed the problem. I believe unplugging would set a code that would have to be cleared, but it would be an EGR code and you'd know that caused it. Other things might be fuel pressure regulator. But that generally causes flooding on trying to start the car. When you say it had a tune up, that is only plugs and new wires. Did it get quality wires and AC spark plugs? How many miles back.
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