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Ford F-Series Owners - Meet the Members

42 messages,  Last post on Oct 06, 2009 at 5:50 PM

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What is this discussion about? Ford F-150, Ford F-350, Ford F-250, Ford F350 Pickup, Truck

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#19 of 42 1996 bronco rear end clunk by fixthisdude Oct 13, 2005 (2:40 pm)
I bought a 1996 Eddi Bauer Bronco. I have a problem. After I stop when I go to take off I get a clunk sometimes more than one. It almost feels like the back end drops. I checked my u bolts, replaced the uni joints,checked sway bar brackets, pleeease help. I am lost. I am pretty handy but this has stumped me. Thanks for any help you can give me. Replies to this message: bronco3 (Jan 04, 2006 10:39 pm)
#20 of 42 replacing starter motor by barry47 Dec 31, 2005 (9:15 am)
my 93 Ranger needs a new starter. however, i can't see how to get to the starter wire to remove it without first removing the upper and lower mounting bolts and letting the motor then hang down far enough to disconnect the wire. is this safe to do if i first disconnect the negative wire from the battery? or is something else required? any suggestions appreciated.
#21 of 42 Re: 1996 bronco rear end clunk [fixthisdude] by bronco3 Jan 04, 2006 (10:39 pm)
Replying to: fixthisdude (Oct 13, 2005 2:40 pm) I also have a 1996 Eddie Bauer Bronco with what sounds like the exact same problem. Did you solve the issue? Any advice would be helpful right now.
#22 of 42 93 ford f350 brakes by jllewellyn Jun 11, 2006 (3:26 pm)
Hello I have a 93 F-350 diesel crew-cab recently I have had a problem with the brakes, sometimes they are power brakes and other times act like a non-power-assisted system would work. I always have brakes it just takes more pedal pressure sometimes. Can anyone help with what I should look at first? Replies to this message: wpalkowski (Jun 12, 2006 12:32 am) jllewellyn (Jun 12, 2006 5:16 am) jllewellyn (Jun 13, 2006 2:13 pm)
#23 of 42 Re: 93 ford f350 brakes [jllewellyn] by wpalkowski Jun 12, 2006 (12:32 am)
Replying to: jllewellyn (Jun 11, 2006 3:26 pm) Had a similar thing with an '87 F-150. Some days I had to literally stand on the pedal to get the truck to stop quickly. Other times it only took normal pedal pressure. You could never tell what it was gonna be, normal stop or hard stop - finally got it fixed when I almost rear ended a bus. Turned out to be the Master Cylinder. There was a problem with fluid leaking internally - it never leaked out, but didn't always go where it was supposed to, and that would make for hard braking.   I do my own brakes - change out wheel cylinders, calipers, and brake lines too, but Master Cylinders are a bit beyond me,! So, I left it to pros to fix. Truck stopped fine after that. Replies to this message: jllewellyn (Jun 12, 2006 5:16 am) jllewellyn (Jun 13, 2006 2:13 pm)
#24 of 42 Re: 93 ford f350 brakes [wpalkowski] by jllewellyn Jun 12, 2006 (5:16 am)
Replying to: wpalkowski (Jun 12, 2006 12:32 am) Thanks for the information I have to get this fixed as we are going to use the truck for vacation transportation and others may be driving it. I don't need anyone else to get the hard brake surprise. Jay Replies to this message: jllewellyn (Jun 13, 2006 2:13 pm)
#25 of 42 Re: 93 ford f350 brakes [jllewellyn] by jllewellyn Jun 13, 2006 (2:13 pm)
Replying to: jllewellyn (Jun 12, 2006 5:16 am) Hello I fixed the brakes. After talking to a few people about the problem I was having ( part-time power brakes) a couple things determined that it was the vacuum pump. Mainly the fact that when the hose that runs from the vacuum pump to a vacuum manifold, located on the left front inner fender, was removed there was little to no activity. When the vacuum hose running from that manifold to the brake booster was wiggled at the booster it was evident that the booster was holding vacuum. I always had brakes, although at times they required excessive pedal pressure, so i believed the master cylinder was okay. So the vacuum pump was replaced luckily it was the cheaper of the two that were listed. The pulley from the old pump has to be reused so a tool that pulls it off the old pump and pushes it onto the new pump has to used. The new pump had threaded bosses where the three bolts go through the pump, the old pump did not, the mounting area on the engine is threaded. I measured what the hole diameter was on the old pump, just over .375", and drilled out the new pump accordingly. Make sure you put the bolts through the holes in the pump before pushing on the pulley as they are too long to be installed after the pulley is in position. Thanks, Jay
#26 of 42 F350 Diesel 7.3 by croper Jun 20, 2006 (11:28 am)
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 Diesel. I am having problems with my truck and with it stalling. I have had it on a diagnostic machine and it indicates ICP Pressure too high. When starting it, it runs for a few minutes then dies, I start it again, runs a few minutes then dies. I start it again and there is no throddle. I start it again and it runs OK until I get ready to use again and it starts all over again with dying and restarting, dying and restarting. I have changed the oil, oil filter, air cleaner and fuel filter. Any ideas on this problems.   Don Replies to this message: gofastnow (Jul 21, 2006 5:32 am)
#27 of 42 Re: F350 Diesel 7.3 [croper] by gofastnow Jul 21, 2006 (5:32 am)
Replying to: croper (Jun 20, 2006 11:28 am) FORD F350, 2001 7.3 DIESEL CAM POSITION SENSOR at 42K I have had similar issues. Originally the engine would stall at speed and would usually re-crank and run a while longer. "Check engine" light did not illuminate except for twice out of the about 15 times it occured. Problem was the cam position sensor, bought on Ebay for 1/2 the dealer price and installed myself. Took about 15 minutes with the help of a web article of how to do.   ICP SENSOR at 43K About a month later the engine would stall as it was downshifting from 2nd to 1st gear (automatic). This time the engine light came on on every occurance. The engine light would eventually go out after some miles of driving. It progressively got worse. When the light would go out it would start to stumble at light load with throttle only cracked open. After stumble the engine light would come back on and the stumble would quit, but may again shutoff when coming to a stop. I had the ICP replaced only about 60 miles ago, but the engine is as smooth as original, so far. Independent garage about $300.00   Good luck, aren't modern vehicles great!?

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