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Mercedes 300D Suggestions

2231 messages,  Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:21 AM

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What is this discussion about? Mercedes-Benz 300-Class, Engine, Fuel System, Diesel, Coupe, Sedan

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#76 of 2231 Taking it apart! by anibalb May 29, 2002 (9:49 am)
Haspelbein,   That was very well put. I guess another difference between Mercedes and GM is that you have to take apart a Mercedes if you want to. A GM comes apart whether you want it or not. Ha ha ha.
#77 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 29, 2002 (10:14 am)
IF you lift the hood of a GM car (which is a perfectly okay car for the money) you see lots of plastic snaps and plastic wire ties instead of bolts and nuts and metal fasteners, and lots of sealed units that cannot be disassembled; also lots of plastic tubing instead of steel or aluminum. You just stick your hands in some of the engine compartments and just the pressure of your wrists or arms breaks things. You pop a door panel or remove a dash panel on a lot of GM cars and you've never get it back in without replacing all the fasteners you just broke off.
#78 of 2231 Or just look at the hose clamps... by haspelbein May 29, 2002 (10:28 am)
All the hose clamps in my Benz are the manual type, which you can tighten with the screw driver found in the Benz' toolkit available in the trunk, should you have an emergency that requires you to do so.   But hose clamps are just an example, electrical connectors are really more important. I remember replacing a throttle position sensor in a Ford. One retaining clips of the electrical connector broke immediately. It was just cheap. The sensor itself was attached to the throttle body with plain phillips screws, torqued beyond reason. Why not spend 50 cents more on TORX bolts, so that the unit can be serviced ? (I ended up removing the valve cover, so that I could put my whole body weight against the electrical drill that finally removed the screw.)   You just don't find that kind of stuff in a Benz. Sometimes MB's solutions are a little bit odd, but always thought out.
#79 of 2231 Laughing by anibalb May 29, 2002 (10:37 am)
The comments are making me laugh. Taking a door panel out and then having to replace all the fastners you just broke off. That is hillariously true. The pressure of you reaching your hand into something breaks something else... I am rolling here. This is good humor! The 123 is indeed a great example of simple mechanical engineering. Agree.   I have not looked yet but, I don't think that I have the Original MB tool box. Is it literally a box with tools? Or just a few wrenches and screwdrivers? Thanks. Still thinking of the comments and laughing.   Please tell me if there is really a need to replace the flex plate in the driveline as a preventive measure? Thanks
#80 of 2231 by jrosasmc May 29, 2002 (10:46 am)
Old Volvos seem to be built the same way as old Mercedes. They're built to stay durable and for easy, simple maintenance.
#81 of 2231 Tools by haspelbein May 29, 2002 (11:02 am)
Actually, I'm not positive on the 123, but on the other MBs I've seen, the tools were in a little bag that you can roll out, having little pockets for the tools.   If you don't have it, I'm sure you can find one on E*Bay very easily.   It is crucial on my car, as it contains the wheel mounting pin. Since my vehicle has lug bolts, and not lug nuts, it is a major pain to change a wheel without it.
#82 of 2231 anibald by paul29 May 29, 2002 (11:24 am)
The filter at the left front of the engine above the injection pump is the main fuel filter. A note of caution here, when replacing this filter do not try to spin this off as you do an oil filter although it looks like one. You must loosen the through bolt which is centered directly on top of the housing, in line with the centerline of the filter, this is how it is attached to the housing, You will crush the filter trying to spin it off. To install hold filter in position and tighten this bolt.There is also a small prefilter (inline) at the manual lift pump on the injection pump . The oil filter housing is on not in the left rear of the engine. This engine takes a two stage cartridge, a full fiow portion (bottom) and a bypass portion (top). It fits into a filter housing which is about 10 inches tall and about 5 inches in dia. It is made of aluminum and has a cap held on with two nuts.Your oil cooler hose pipes attach to the bottom of this housing. Nice to see you are taking an interest in your car.
#83 of 2231 Paul29 by anibalb May 29, 2002 (12:09 pm)
Paul wrote:   The oil filter housing is on not in the left rear of the engine.   Ha ha ha. I appreciate that correction. English is my second language and I do that all the time. So am learning two things at once. Good to know that is the fuel filter. Knowing me, I probably would try to untighten it like an oil filter.   Once I find the oil Filter housing I will then see the oil cooler hose pipes. Great! I will look to see if they are leaking!   I am extremely interested in the car as it fascinates me quite a bit. Also, doing work with my hands is a great stress reliever and break from looking at a computer all day as my career demands. I very much look forward to doing the maintenance on it. Only one thing that scares me is valve adjustment. Would like to watch someone first, but can't exactly ask my mechanic for that.....
#84 of 2231 Paul 29---Tach by anibalb May 30, 2002 (7:28 am)
Paul,   I spotted the Tach sending unit. I unscrewed it and then put it back in and VOILA! Tach works again. I presume this will only be temporary and it will stop again. But at least that tells me that it is the sending unit not the Tach itself. I might try taking it off and getting some wire cleaner/dryer and cleaning it all up. Sometimes that works.   Can you do me a big favor and tell me what speed your 300 is going in the Highway when the rpms is exactly at 3. I am curious if my speedometer is well calibrated. It seems that when I am going only 65 I am passing a lot of people. So just let me know what the speed should be.   I also saw the oil filter casing. And attached are the hoses but they are aluminum and I thought that they were just rubber. In any event, I don't see any leaks at all. So am not sure if it was fixed and the Mechanic just forgot to delete that from the suggestions box in the invoice.   Soon I will test the brakes and booster. If I find glazed pads or something like that I might just do an overhaul and replace rotors pads and flush the fluid. Then I'll be sure it is all good!
#85 of 2231 anibald by paul29 May 30, 2002 (8:43 am)
Do not have the 300dt now, sold it some time ago. Your speedo could be out if the rear diff was changed . Different years/engines have different ratios but the housings all fit and look the same. To test your speedometer , go on a highway with mile markers, hold your speed at 60mph and with a stop watch or wrist watch , record the time it takes to go 5 miles . Should be 5 min.( 300 sec. ) . If it takes longer your speedo is registering fast , if it takes less than 300 sec. your speedo is registering slower than your actual speed . Note before testing set your tire pressure as recomended on the fuel fill door. As for the oil cooler lines, the flex section is at the oil cooler end of the lines , this is probably where the mech. noticed the seeping or leaks. I doubt if cleaning the tac unit will help , you will notice the a lot of the Benz connector pins/sockets appear to be silver plated . In any case they are the best quality connectors I have seen on a vehicle at that period of time. Also the tac sender electronics and pins are completely sealed from the elements when the cap is screwed in place. These cars were expensive and the buyer actually got what he/she paid for IMHO.

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