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Mercedes 300D Suggestions

2231 messages,  Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:21 AM

You are in the Classic Cars Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Mercedes-Benz 300-Class, Engine, Fuel System, Diesel, Coupe, Sedan

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#62 of 2231 Synthetic Oil by dieselsmoke May 26, 2002 (7:35 am)
Mr. Shiftright,   You mention the importance of changing oil and filter every 3000 mi. for diesels. I assume you mean traditional oil. What about synthetics like Amsoil, Redline and Mobil 1? Both Amsoil and Redline claim extended intervals between drains but what affect do these longer intervals have on the oil filter? Any suggestions? Thanks.
#63 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 26, 2002 (10:09 am)
You know, I just don't mess with extended drains on diesels as I feel they overstress the filters. I suppose if you pulled the filter at 3,000 and left the synthetic in to 6,000 that might be okay, but you know how dirty diesel engine oil gets and how much stress is on those engines.   Given the cost of a Mercedes diesel engine replacement, I don't see the wisdom in saving a bit of time and money using extended oil drains.   I realize that the Big Rigs probably don't change their oils every 3,000, but these engines are monsters and also have masive filtration systems. You really can't compare them to dinky auto diesel engines.
#64 of 2231 Paul by anibalb May 26, 2002 (8:57 pm)
Paul,   Thanks so very much for all the tips. They come in handy. I will look at those 2 items soon. The Tac works sometimes. I think more often than not it is not working. I will look into the sending unit.   I replaced the tires on my car today. They needed it so bad. I kept one wheel as the spare and put a new tire on the spare since it was flat! So instead of unmounting a tire from one wheel and remounting it on the spare they just swapped wheels.... I guess this is not a problem since it is a full spare.   In doing so I noticed that the rear driver's side brakes are not wearing out evenly. I presume a failing caliper. Should I just replace the caliper? Also I have to press hard on the brakes. Most likely a bad booster. I should be able to do these repairs.   Paul do you know any good place to get parts? Also, how do I remove the Speddo component? I don't think that will be covered in Hayes manual.   Again, thanks for the tips. Oh! What oil do you use?
#65 of 2231 Brakes (Booster) by anibalb May 28, 2002 (7:19 am)
Hello,   I realized that there is a rebuild kit for Calipers that costs 1/10 of a rebuilt caliper. Should I just do that. I think all you do is remove the pistons and seals clean it all out and put in new seals. How hard can that be?   How can I know for sure if I need a new brake booster. I tested it as follows. Pressed the brakes several times with the car off and then turned the car on. Sure enough the brakes went down closer to the floor. But it was very slow. I guess in my newer car as soon as I turn the car on they drop right away and faster.   How hard is it to replace the oil cooler hoses? The last service invoice said that it needed them and the cost was 275. Seems a lot to me to replace some hoses.   Glow plugs. It seems more expensive to have them tested than to just replace them. Should I replace them as preventive maintenance? And how often should I replace them going forward?   Mr. Shiftright/Paul??? I would appreciate tips.   Also, it seems that there is an excellent Mechanic in Walnut Creek. So may use him for major stuff!
#66 of 2231 anibald by paul29 May 28, 2002 (11:21 am)
The 123 series rear brake always wear unevenly , comparing inside to outside pads, this is normal for the rear brakes. A zone rep suggested years ago at the half way point in service to simply exchange outside to inside to even the wear and get the most economical service from the pads. they will seat in quickly and only contribute a fraction of the brake force compared to the front. To check the calipers , remove the pads and use a piece of wood to pry/ push the pistons in , any stuck pistons will soon be apparent (wood wil not mark the rotors). You can rebuild the calipers as you suggest but my experence is that the rebuilds are more cost effective and easier. Have you ever taken a stuck piston out? What about removing the sheared bleed screw? Now that you have gotten this far on a Saturday, and find the pitted piston has also got to be replaced, that piston/s alone will cost almost as much as a rebuilt caliper and if your paying some else for labour ?? Check your local parts stores , the prices are all over the map, but should be able to find for under a hundred. Your call ! MB uses two types of brakes on your car Teves or Bendix , Replace what you have with the same brand. I have found the OEM pads offer better braking but are softer than aftermarket and produce more brake dust. Two good low dust brands are Mintex and Axxis(repco) The instrument cluster fits in the dash much like a large plug ,no screws or clips are used , you basically pull it out To remove the instrument cluster , fashion a small hook from a piece of clothes hanger wire by flattening the end to about halt thickness, bend this end over to form a hook. on the other end place a piece of wood for a handle or use something similar. push the top of the vinyl surrounding the ins cluster up and insert the tool , hook towards cluster and pull out , now go to thr right side at 3 o' clock position on clock and insert again and pull . cluster should now be free , reach behind and unscrew knurled nut on speedo cable ,disconnect electrical plugs and cluster is in your hands.You can also remove the under dash panel and push unit out by hand. Performance products.com (impco) have a great catalog with parts break down, also www.alleuro.com . As to moter oil I always used Quaker State 10w40 in my MB .not saying it is better than anything else, only it is on MB's approved list of lubes and is available anywhere in Canada and US that I travel. Also use this brand in all my vehicles, different weights for different applications of course. No need to replace glow plugs unless bad , there is a failure warning if one goes but is not that accurate. PS the oil cooler hoses are $44 and $39 plus shipping (2000/01 catalog) respectively at Performance Products 1-800-243-1220 ch. Good luck
#67 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 28, 2002 (12:53 pm)
Great advice, thanks! Also you don't turn rotors on this Benz, you have to replace the rotors if they do not meet minimum thickness.   I agree, I don't think trying to rebuild the calipers yourself has much of a chance of success unless you are very very lucky.
#68 of 2231 Brakes by anibalb May 28, 2002 (1:58 pm)
Paul,   WOW! Great stuff. I will not rebuild the calipers. Thanks for the advice. It is only the left rear that has uneven wear.   What do you think of the Booster question? The brake pedal is a bit hard, but I am comparing it to a 2001 Subaru Outback that is known for Squeeshy brake pedal. Is there a way to test the thing out.   Thanks on the oil cooler hoses. I will have to look for them. I am not sure where they are yet. I am just going by what the last invoice of service recommended.   Paul, my clock does not work either, is that part of the tach sending unit? I presume not! But one never knows, one thing can screw up the other. One last thing, when I turn my key to let the glow plugs warm up the antenna goes up. And then when I crank the engine it goes back down and then up again. Is this right?   Where are you located Paul? I am in Bay Area!
#69 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 28, 2002 (4:45 pm)
You should also check on Ebay for these parts. i get lots of 300D parts from Ebay.   The 300D has a big booster. Your brakes should stop on a dime. If the booster were defective, you'd have to literally STAND on those brakes to get the car to stop. If you have a bad caliper or two, or glazed rotors or pads, your braking efficiency will be very badly compromised.   I suppose you could disconnect the brake booster vacuum feed and plug it up and then see if there's any difference. I'd be very careful how and where you do this, and am not officially recommending it.
#70 of 2231 anibald by paul29 May 28, 2002 (5:44 pm)
The test you did is a standard brake booster test and indicates the booster is functioning, I agree with Mr Shiftright, the brakes on these cars are like setting anchors when they are working right, . The oil cooler hoses run from the oil cooler at the front left side of the rad (stand alone device) and run back the left side of the body to the oil filter housing on the left rear of the engine. The clock is a separate stand alone item and removes from the rear of your instrument cluster, they get a little "jerky " before quitting, Palo Alto Speedometer Inc. fixes them or it might be more cost effective to get a used one. Potomoc German Auto 1-800-831-8901 is a good source for used MB parts such as this (I bought my clock there). I've been to their yard, lots of Mercs there. When you go to start, most electrical devices are disconnected, you can shut the radio off before stopping the engine, to prevent this on starting and turn it on afterward. If this is the OEM radio and antenna , the antenna will go to different heights depending on Am or Fm. I'm in the North East near Maine.
#71 of 2231 Mr. S. & Paul by anibalb May 29, 2002 (7:39 am)
I can't tell you how much I appreciate your tips. This is great stuff. Mr. Shiftright, I will try the test that you outlined above on a nice flat empty parking lot. I understand that you are not recommending it. The LR caliper may be failing as it is the only one that is wearing out the pads unevenly. It just may need a good Brake fluid flush! I will look for glazed pads. And when I replace the back pads I will just get new rotors since they are not that expensive. I don't like half jobs. If I do them I will replace everything.   I think that I will also have to replace the CV boots. I am sure that will be time consuming. It seems that you have to take off the cover of the differential to release the axles. Euffff! Maybe it is not as complicated as I think. I just have to remember that when I get the CV boot kit to get a new gasket for differential and new 80/90.   Are the Mercedes CD's really worth it? I need lots of pictures to help me spot these things. Like the oil cooler hoses. I will look for them now. Paul you said oil filter is in left back of the engine. Driver's side? There is a filter in the front of engine Driver's side that looks just like and oil filter. So what is that?   I am taking a big exam this Saturday. After that I will have time to fix all these little odds and ends and my 300 will be in tip top shape. I will let you know how it goes! And am sure that I will have more questions.

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