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Mercedes 300D Suggestions

2231 messages, Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:21 AM
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Hi, Thanks. About the sealing, I have seen that mentioned several times. And I did notice the rubber on the doors was in ok shape....dried out. So I am sure that new rubber would cut the noise. Maybe you and I are thinking different on the sealing. I am thinking the black rubber moldings around the doors. It is more expensive than a couple thousand (3500). And I think I will be willing to pay a premium because of its low mileage. Most have close to 200K. I guess the car was just in really great shape and that impressed me. Am I going overboard? The ones I see selling here are all above 4K and they all have incredibly more mileage! I don't get it. It may just be CA. I do see a lot of them on the road and I have been searching for one for a long time. Let me know if you think that is totally too much. I still have not picked it up and can change my mind I suppose! |
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I wouldn't rush to replace the door seals (weatherstrip) unless needed. If they're resonably soft and pliable then try treating them with a rubber preservative. They will be quieter, but it will need to be done on a regular basis. If you replace them yourself figure about $60 per door (4 door, 2 door a little more). Be advised though that the replacement seals, even if said to be OEM, usually don't fit as well as the originals. They always seem to just a tad to large, resulting in insisting on not staying glued down somewhere (usually a corner where they're needed the most). I have found the best prices on "OEM" parts to be from one of the many independent suppliers. |
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You indicated that the car was "good" but not great, so I downgraded the price on that basis. If it's a sharp car, sure $3,500 is okay. I wouldn't call the miles "low" in an absolute sense, but they are low for a 20 year old car that's true. Still, over 100K is over 100K and you have to deal with that. Lots of things can wear out at 100K+, especially suspension parts. And they are often neglected. These cars do seem to run forever. It may be, in terms of reliability, one of the world's best cars ever made. Think of a Mercedes 300D as a Toyota with real sheet metal. |
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| Don't forget the Volvo 240s, too. Those cars can run forever, and they were pretty reliable. | |
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| Much overated car in my estimation, but they did run a long time, even if every interior and exterior trim piece fell off them, along with their exhaust systems. They are no Benz in build quality, that's for sure. Sort of a Swedish Chevrolet. | |
| That's very true; 240s are an overrated car. That's why my father avoided Volvos for a very long time before buying one (an 850). Another comment; old Chevy Caprices are like Volvo 240s. They run a long time, but just about every part of the body falls off. | |
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| It's the Benz build quality that really sets the car apart from most. No matter what your intention and skill and budget, it is very difficult to build on a crumbling platform | |
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#45 of 48 by jrosasmc May 23, 2002 (07:34 am) Don't forget the Volvo 240s, too. Those cars can run forever, and they were pretty reliable. #47 of 48 by jrosasmc May 23, 2002 (09:58 am) That's very true; 240s are an overrated car. That's why my father avoided Volvos for a very long time before buying one (an 850). Another comment; old Chevy Caprices are like Volvo 240s. They run a long time, but just about every part of the body falls off. Jeez, kid, form your own opinion and stick with it. |
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| Being German I am biased to a MBZ, but I am currently driving an 88 245DL Wagon and have been pretty satisfied. I don't rate it against my Benz because its not in the same class. 1) 1981 MBZ 300D $27,000.<>1988 Volvo 245DL Wagon $17,999. SURVEY SAYS! But both very good cars. | |
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Yes, that's a fair statement. Not in the same class. Both are good in their respective classes. I just did an appraisal on a 300SD that rear end a Toyota Solara. Mercedes is running still, Toyota is a total loss. Nobody hurt, that's good! |
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