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Mercedes 300D Suggestions

2231 messages,  Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:21 AM

You are in the Classic Cars Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Mercedes-Benz 300-Class, Engine, Fuel System, Diesel, Coupe, Sedan

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#40 of 2231 300 D by anibalb May 21, 2002 (10:08 pm)
Mr. Shiftright,   I just bought an 82 300D TurboDiesel. It has 123K miles on it. And everything on it works. The engine compartment was clean and the interior does not have a single crack, hence I believe that indeed it only has the 123K miles on the odometer. After it was off, I turned it on and it cranked right up. And while stopped I stepped on the gas and the car actually moved more than I thought. They aren't that slow, so it seems. What problems should I look for in the car? What do you think this car is really worth? I am in CA. I am just curious. The body is good not great! Do you think this is a good catch? Any ideas on how much it costs to have all the windows and doors resealed? And I see service bulletins and recalls with recent dates as late as 1999. Does that mean if I take this 20 year old car to a mercedes dealer they will still provide those services free? I would really appreciate the comments.
#41 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 21, 2002 (10:21 pm)
Now why on earth do the doors and windows need to be resealed? That seems a peculiar thing for you to mention.   I'd say that if you have some cosmetic issues with this car, it can't be worth much more than a couple thousand dollars. Much of the car's value is in the cosmetics when it comes to a Benz.   As for service bulletins, no, you are on your own paycheck for those. And for a car that old, I don't think going to the dealer is the best idea. But the dealer is a good source for most parts. Mercedes has a great inventory on old diesels, it's pretty amazing. I just walked in and bought right off the shelf an oil filler cap, some dashboard bulbs, a hood release handle and a directional switch rubber boot. Not bad inventory on a 22 year old car, huh? Replies to this message: g.guidobono (Jan 16, 2005 5:18 am)
#42 of 2231 Door seals by anibalb May 22, 2002 (5:19 am)
Hi,   Thanks. About the sealing, I have seen that mentioned several times. And I did notice the rubber on the doors was in ok shape....dried out. So I am sure that new rubber would cut the noise. Maybe you and I are thinking different on the sealing. I am thinking the black rubber moldings around the doors.   It is more expensive than a couple thousand (3500). And I think I will be willing to pay a premium because of its low mileage. Most have close to 200K. I guess the car was just in really great shape and that impressed me. Am I going overboard? The ones I see selling here are all above 4K and they all have incredibly more mileage! I don't get it. It may just be CA. I do see a lot of them on the road and I have been searching for one for a long time. Let me know if you think that is totally too much. I still have not picked it up and can change my mind I suppose!
#43 of 2231 Sealing.... by burdawg May 22, 2002 (12:39 pm)
I wouldn't rush to replace the door seals (weatherstrip) unless needed. If they're resonably soft and pliable then try treating them with a rubber preservative. They will be quieter, but it will need to be done on a regular basis. If you replace them yourself figure about $60 per door (4 door, 2 door a little more). Be advised though that the replacement seals, even if said to be OEM, usually don't fit as well as the originals. They always seem to just a tad to large, resulting in insisting on not staying glued down somewhere (usually a corner where they're needed the most). I have found the best prices on "OEM" parts to be from one of the many independent suppliers.
#44 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 22, 2002 (2:06 pm)
You indicated that the car was "good" but not great, so I downgraded the price on that basis. If it's a sharp car, sure $3,500 is okay. I wouldn't call the miles "low" in an absolute sense, but they are low for a 20 year old car that's true. Still, over 100K is over 100K and you have to deal with that. Lots of things can wear out at 100K+, especially suspension parts. And they are often neglected.   These cars do seem to run forever. It may be, in terms of reliability, one of the world's best cars ever made. Think of a Mercedes 300D as a Toyota with real sheet metal.
#45 of 2231 by jrosasmc May 23, 2002 (6:34 am)
Don't forget the Volvo 240s, too. Those cars can run forever, and they were pretty reliable.
#46 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 23, 2002 (8:42 am)
Much overated car in my estimation, but they did run a long time, even if every interior and exterior trim piece fell off them, along with their exhaust systems. They are no Benz in build quality, that's for sure. Sort of a Swedish Chevrolet.
#47 of 2231 by jrosasmc May 23, 2002 (8:58 am)
That's very true; 240s are an overrated car. That's why my father avoided Volvos for a very long time before buying one (an 850). Another comment; old Chevy Caprices are like Volvo 240s. They run a long time, but just about every part of the body falls off.
#48 of 2231 by Mr_Shiftright HOST May 23, 2002 (12:26 pm)
It's the Benz build quality that really sets the car apart from most. No matter what your intention and skill and budget, it is very difficult to build on a crumbling platform
#49 of 2231 Oh, come on! by lancerfixer May 23, 2002 (1:31 pm)
#45 of 48 by jrosasmc May 23, 2002 (07:34 am)   Don't forget the Volvo 240s, too. Those cars can run forever, and they were pretty reliable.   #47 of 48 by jrosasmc May 23, 2002 (09:58 am)    That's very true; 240s are an overrated car. That's why my father avoided Volvos for a very long time before buying one (an 850). Another comment; old Chevy Caprices are like Volvo 240s. They run a long time, but just about every part of the body falls off.   Jeez, kid, form your own opinion and stick with it.

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