Last post on Jun 12, 2013 at 7:38 AM
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Mercedes-Benz 300-Class, Engine, Fuel System, Diesel, Coupe, Sedan
#35 of 2332 I like Mercedes diesels
May 17, 2002 (5:46 am)
For anyone who is looking for buying a Mercedes diesel. I bought my wife a used 1987 300 TD in 1991 for $17,000 kept it until last month sold it for $7000 and thought I had a good deal and found out that My mechanic would have paid more for the car if he had known it was for sale. I did not advertize the car for sale but a person approached me and ask me if I was willing to sell the Benz. It was very close to needing a paint job and wheels redone, but every thing else perfect for that old a car.
I found that the Benz was no more expensive to repair than my suburban. Yes some parts are more expensive and you need to find a competent mechanic who will only do what is necessary to keep the car safe and running. But you do need to do basic service on the car religiously. The car at 150000 miles was as sound as a rock. By the way I found my wife a 1991 190e 2.6 with 50,000 miles on it I hope the gas version is as good to me as the diesel.
May 17, 2002 (9:00 am)
Is anybody aware of the '68 Mercedes 220D sedan, now owned by the company, that had 1.2 million miles on it when it was retired? I recall reading somewhere that the owner used to make a 150-mile round-trip commute in it daily. Weird, since it's slower than a VW Beetle.
May 17, 2002 (10:56 am)
I just re-did my maintenance and repair calculations for the last two years and it's actually more than $75 a month, it's $109. I kinda splurged on the tires I think and this jumped it up quite a bit.
I'm also switching to a better brake rotor and metallic linings. The brakes on a 300D are really really excellent but as you know Mercedes does not allow turning rotors. You have to junk your rotors when they go past accepted thickness. So buying the better-stopping metallic pads works for me, even though they are harder on rotors, because the rotors are not salvageable anyway, even with regular pads.
May 19, 2002 (11:56 am)
Hello again, I have done it...I think...Found a used 3.0 L5 for my '81. Fairly low miles and for only 400 dollars. I also found a rebuilt trans for 1400 or would it be less expensive to have mine rebuilt. Danke.
May 20, 2002 (7:54 am)
Sometimes you cannot estimate transmission rebuild costs until you break down the unit. I would guess that your automatic would cost more than $1,400 to rebuild professionally.
If you are buying an already "rebuilt" transmission, I would be sure that there is written evidence of what was done and by whom. This is not something I would just take someone's word for, since many times automatics are just opened up and given a "small parts" rebuild, a kind of "quickie" to get them going again.
May 21, 2002 (10:08 pm)
I just bought an 82 300D TurboDiesel. It has 123K miles on it. And everything on it works. The engine compartment was clean and the interior does not have a single crack, hence I believe that indeed it only has the 123K miles on the odometer. After it was off, I turned it on and it cranked right up. And while stopped I stepped on the gas and the car actually moved more than I thought. They aren't that slow, so it seems. What problems should I look for in the car? What do you think this car is really worth? I am in CA. I am just curious. The body is good not great! Do you think this is a good catch? Any ideas on how much it costs to have all the windows and doors resealed? And I see service bulletins and recalls with recent dates as late as 1999. Does that mean if I take this 20 year old car to a mercedes dealer they will still provide those services free? I would really appreciate the comments.
May 21, 2002 (10:21 pm)
Now why on earth do the doors and windows need to be resealed? That seems a peculiar thing for you to mention.
I'd say that if you have some cosmetic issues with this car, it can't be worth much more than a couple thousand dollars. Much of the car's value is in the cosmetics when it comes to a Benz.
As for service bulletins, no, you are on your own paycheck for those. And for a car that old, I don't think going to the dealer is the best idea. But the dealer is a good source for most parts. Mercedes has a great inventory on old diesels, it's pretty amazing. I just walked in and bought right off the shelf an oil filler cap, some dashboard bulbs, a hood release handle and a directional switch rubber boot. Not bad inventory on a 22 year old car, huh?
#42 of 2332 Door seals
May 22, 2002 (5:19 am)
Thanks. About the sealing, I have seen that mentioned several times. And I did notice the rubber on the doors was in ok shape....dried out. So I am sure that new rubber would cut the noise. Maybe you and I are thinking different on the sealing. I am thinking the black rubber moldings around the doors.
It is more expensive than a couple thousand (3500). And I think I will be willing to pay a premium because of its low mileage. Most have close to 200K. I guess the car was just in really great shape and that impressed me. Am I going overboard? The ones I see selling here are all above 4K and they all have incredibly more mileage! I don't get it. It may just be CA. I do see a lot of them on the road and I have been searching for one for a long time. Let me know if you think that is totally too much. I still have not picked it up and can change my mind I suppose!
#43 of 2332 Sealing....
May 22, 2002 (12:39 pm)
I wouldn't rush to replace the door seals (weatherstrip) unless needed. If they're resonably soft and pliable then try treating them with a rubber preservative. They will be quieter, but it will need to be done on a regular basis. If you replace them yourself figure about $60 per door (4 door, 2 door a little more). Be advised though that the replacement seals, even if said to be OEM, usually don't fit as well as the originals. They always seem to just a tad to large, resulting in insisting on not staying glued down somewhere (usually a corner where they're needed the most).
I have found the best prices on "OEM" parts to be from one of the many independent suppliers.
May 22, 2002 (2:06 pm)
You indicated that the car was "good" but not great, so I downgraded the price on that basis. If it's a sharp car, sure $3,500 is okay. I wouldn't call the miles "low" in an absolute sense, but they are low for a 20 year old car that's true. Still, over 100K is over 100K and you have to deal with that. Lots of things can wear out at 100K+, especially suspension parts. And they are often neglected.
These cars do seem to run forever. It may be, in terms of reliability, one of the world's best cars ever made. Think of a Mercedes 300D as a Toyota with real sheet metal.