Last post on Jun 12, 2013 at 7:38 AM
You are in the Classic Cars
What is this discussion about?
Mercedes-Benz 300-Class, Engine, Fuel System, Diesel, Coupe, Sedan
#2307 of 2332 Re: heat issues-1981 300d [coach17]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Dec 02, 2011 (7:12 pm)
Well then you're in luck..you only have the* second* worst climate control I think you should investigate these people --
I suspect that your problem is in these controls somewhere.
#2308 of 2332 Transmission issues
Dec 07, 2011 (12:03 pm)
Does anyone have the schematic for the vacuum lines on a 1981 300d transmission. I am told this is a California car and the # on tranny is 722.118.
I have a 1981 300d with 200,000 miles. It seems to slip or flare from 2nd>3rd, and 3>4. 2nd>3rd seems a little worse. Also, it shifts into third at around 25MPH (which is very close to the 2nd>3rd shift around 20-23MPH). I can start out in "S" and then shift into "D" at 30 mph and it doesn't seem to slip.
The tranny looks like it may have been taken out and possibly had work done. I'm hoping it is just a vacuum issue.
#2309 of 2332 Re: Transmission issues [coach17]
Dec 07, 2011 (1:02 pm)
Quite honestly, if you're new to this car you may be experiencing the typical behavior of the 300D tranny, especially if you're trying to accelerate quickly.
When I first got my 1980 300D I was alarmed thinking that I had a problem. After reading some posts here and talking to a few other owners in person, I realized that I was trying to push the car too hard and that I was going to have to relax and settle for slow acceleration since pushing it harder didn't speed things up, it just caused the weird shifting you're having. I don't think you have a problem.
I'd see what others have to say, but this is my experience.
#2310 of 2332 84 Mercedes 300D new blower motor designed for a Chrysler $53
Feb 12, 2012 (7:45 pm)
My blower motor would no longer turn by hand once removed, I also discovered that replacements are no longer made, and if you actually find one it's at least $168 online but NAPA did not have it in stock anymore.
My successful $53 solution:
Use a blower motor from a newer Chrysler and 'make it fit'. I went to an O'Reilly Auto store in Kansas City and Tom the Eagle Scout helped me out. The motor that Tom found is the VDO PM3324 for $53. The motor diameter of the body and the shaft are an exact match. Electrically it works perfectly at all speeds from ultra low to high, and this solution does not require any modifications to your original Mercedes wiring. However the new motor is constructed a little different and some creative engineering is required to get the fit just right.
Before you start
Use a voltage meter to verify the blower motor electrical plug has 12 volts when you turn the ignition key on. A no fan issue could be a resistor or fuse problem.
Bench grinder, basic metric socket set, screw drivers, crimping tool, 3m black vinyl tape, 3m double sided foam tape, hammer, drill with 15/64th bit or so, one male one female red spade connectors to crimp to the motor wiring, semi rusty vice grips optional.
First remove the old motor under the passenger dash, so remove the panel first. The electrical connection easily pulls straight down. If you remove the 4 machine screws from rear to front, it will fall right into your hand, if like my 15 year old son you remove screws front to rear it will fall right onto your head. I love teaching my children the finer points of working on cars
Remove the single bolt in the middle that holds the motor in place. The motor can now be wrestled out. Note the 4 vertical ridges in the Mercedes plastic that holds the motor.
The new motor bottom needs 4 notches:
The VDO motor has an ridge in it's bottom cap construction, I used my bench grinding
wheel to notch this cap flush with the body in 4 90 degree cuts to fit the plastic ridges, 2 of them at the 2 attachment bolts on bottom, the other 2 90 degrees from these bolts. I recommend making them a little wider than required for an easier fit, a tight tolerance won't help you here.
The new motor needs it's bottom cap circumference reduced:
The bottom cap has a outside ridge, carefully rotate the motor against your bench grinder to reduce, but not remove, the outer lip. Once it fits into the top of the Mercedes plastic base this task is complete.
Protect your wiring!
The black and blue wires come from the top of the motor. Cut the foam tape, stick the wires below this so they are flush with the side of the motor. Wrap with 4 or so times with a good 3m black electrical tape. I highly recommend you avoid the cheap stuff here!
Drill the New mounting Holes:
Getting the new motor into the old Mercedes plastic requires a firm tapping, not hammering. Place on motor on your work surface, with shaft just off to the side and tap the plastic on the motor. When the bottom two mounting bolts hit bottom the will leave your drill location marks. Wrestle the motor out and use a 15/64 drill bit to make 2 new holes. Hint: remove the extra two nuts at this time. Re-tap the plastic onto the motor making sure the bolts come through the holes, attach with the washers and nuts that come with the motor.
Cut no wires, Make the Electrical Connection:
The fan requires a CCW rotation when looking down at the top of the shaft. Terminate the black wire with a red(22-18 gauge) male spade to fit into the Mercedes side female connecter, which is the + voltage side. Terminate motor's blue wire with a red female spade connecter for ground. The motor wires were a very tight fit into the red connectors and crimped down just fine. I did not cut any wires, and was able to nicely tuck them both down into the plastic base when done.
The smart choice, a new squirrel cage:
The shaft is a little longer, this was not the problem as there is room above. The original motor top is tapered, and the original fan support is curved to match. The new motor has a right angle top, not tapered which means the original squirrel cage fan cannot be tapped down as low on the new motor. Though this is not what I did I think it's likely the better choice.
Plan B, What I did:
Tap the old fan onto the shaft, when it reaches flush, use a deep socket to tap it further down about 1/4 inch, until the motor top is just barely not touching fan. I actually had the slightest of fan to motor rubs, as I assumed it rubbed itself out during the first 20 minutes of operation.
The new system will be about 5mm to tall and the an will rub on the top side. I used a blue foam 10mm thick and 4 screws that were a little longer that the original and it works great.
The foam I cut into a circle around the bottom of the fan, and use a marker to trace and cut the external plastic shape. A couple small pieces of 3m double sided foam tape and
#2311 of 2332 Paint and Trim
Jul 28, 2012 (9:54 pm)
I recently purchased an 84 300d with 49k miles. It had been living in a dry climate (LA) and stored for several years. The car runs great and performed perfectly during the journey from LA to Seattle.
The paint (gold) is showing evidence of wear (small scratches) on the sides of the body. Roof, hood and trunk are okay. I would like to have the car repainted. I took it to a paint shop recommended by my local MB dealer here in Seattle. They told me the clear coat was cracking and could not be repaired. They recommended a repaint. The prices quotes were incredible ($7k if I keep the same color and $12k for changing the color).
I have several questions:
1. What is a good price for a repaint job (using MB colors)?
2. Should I keep the same color (I do have a preference for another MB color that was available that year)?
3. Is replacing the seals (around the doors and trunk lid) a big ($$$) expense and is it something that I could do (not being a weekend mechanic yet).
Just getting started with this car. It is the first classic car I have purchased. I actually owned a similar car new (back in 84) so am reliving my past!
Any guidance and recommendations would be helpful.
#2312 of 2332 Re: Paint and Trim [watex]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 29, 2012 (11:50 am)
Well I think it would be a good idea to drive this car for a while before investing in paintwork, just to make sure all the usual 300d bugs are out of it.
The door seals are a good idea and no problem except that you have to be very neat about the application of the glue--so if you aren't somewhat fastidious, and have good glue solvents on hand, you might farm this out. But it's hardly rocket science.
Good paintwork is very expensive because it is a) intensely labor dependent work and b) if you don't use the best paint materials, the job won't last.
To give you an idea of the range of quality, I have spend more on the PAINT and MATERIALS for a paint job, without even opening the cans up, then what Miracle Auto Body charges to paint an entire car.
That's a lot of money to invest in an old 300d and you'll never see it returned on resale, so unless it looks really awful you might think about living with it, at least for a while until you see how the car works out.
Pay particular attention to the heater/AC system controls, to the rear hydraulic compensator, the front coil springs (they sag). Invest in good brakes and tires, and perhaps a water trap for your fuel system. Get used to using additives for the fuel (biocides, cetane enhancers, injector cleaners), and change the oil frequently. Flush out the coolant, too if the old stuff is still in there.
Good sturdy old car, though!
#2313 of 2332 Paint and Trim
Jul 29, 2012 (6:59 pm)
Thanks for the input. I think you are right. The finish looks okay from about five feet away. I may try some elbow grease and buff as much as I can.
I noticed that the trim (aluminum?) is dull (faded) and not shiny. Can I buff the trim (e.g. around the windows) so that they return to their original shiny state? Is there a product that brings the condition back?
#2314 of 2332 Re: Paint and Trim [watex]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 30, 2012 (7:39 am)
yes you can buff it out--but be gentle. Start off with that very fine bronze wool that they use to buff out the fittings on sailboats and powerboats. AND BE SURE to stay away from the paint---mask the paint off if you are going to use bronze or very fine steel wool.
On restoration work on very expensive cars, they often remove the old trim, and carefully tap out the dents with a tiny hammer (you have to really know what you're doing in this case) and then buff the trim on a wheel, using a very fine jeweler's rouge. But that's probably too extreme for your situation.
#2315 of 2332 Paint and Trim
Jul 31, 2012 (12:28 pm)
Thanks so much for the guidance. I guess I have my winter projects lined up!
#2316 of 2332 Re: Paint and Trim [watex]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jul 31, 2012 (6:05 pm)
Just remember that ALL polishes are *abrasive*, no matter what the claims...so gentle, gentle, is the word on an old car's chrome and paint.