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Mercedes 300D Suggestions

2231 messages,  Last post on Nov 11, 2009 at 9:21 AM

You are in the Classic Cars Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Mercedes-Benz 300-Class, Engine, Fuel System, Diesel, Coupe, Sedan


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#2173 of 2231
Re: a) drive train slack - b) auxilliary fan thermostat switch [keithmcd] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
May 29, 2009 (6:45 am)
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Replying to: keithmcd (May 29, 2009 6:40 am)

Probably just slop in the differential. But you can easily check the u-joints in your driveshaft for play. Also these diesels can idle down really low, so maybe your idle is too high?
 
Best way to test the aux fan is to just let the car idle with the AC on and see what happens. If the aux fan doesn't kick in as the temp needle approaches hot, then it's not working.
#2174 of 2231
Re: a) drive train slack - b) auxilliary fan thermostat switch [keithmcd] by zadams
May 29, 2009 (7:00 am)
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Replying to: keithmcd (May 29, 2009 6:40 am)

is your vacuum system working? I had considerable rough shifting in my 300d (85') when my vacuum system was broke. It was remedied when a fualty line was replaced.
#2175 of 2231
Looking to buy a 1980 300CD by bawlmerc
Jun 02, 2009 (11:42 pm)
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I'm looking to buy a 1980 300CD with 140,000 mile on it. The cars in great shape. What should I look for in terms of past or future problem areas. What does W123 mean. It's a non turbo.
Thanks
BawlmerC
#2176 of 2231
Re: Looking to buy a 1980 300CD [bawlmerc] by britcan
Jun 03, 2009 (12:12 am)
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Replying to: bawlmerc (Jun 02, 2009 11:42 pm)

i have one a 79 great car its a turbo .123 is a chassis type older type then came w116 = 300sd same engine then w124 300sd in 81 what part of usa do you live in ?? give me a call 210-396-1643 maurice phillips
#2177 of 2231
Re: a) drive train slack - b) auxilliary fan thermostat switch [Mr_Shiftright] by keithmcd
Jun 03, 2009 (6:27 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (May 29, 2009 6:45 am)

thks for answers....
re- diff slop .....can diff just continue to take it without serious effect?
I will check idle ...that may be
 
--i have changed the fan clutch and radiator already, so now the car does not overheat even when idle with AC running this of course is good but precludes using that as test for the aux elec fan. perhaps on a very hot day coming off highway running this may work...will try it.
 
thks
#2178 of 2231
Re: Looking to buy a 1980 300CD [bawlmerc] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 03, 2009 (8:30 am)
Reply

Replying to: bawlmerc (Jun 02, 2009 11:42 pm)

Things to look for:
 
1. Rust
 
2. Is the climate control working properly when you "dial it"? Play with it and make sure you get heat and AC. If not plan on spending some $$$ to fix that.
 
3. Filthy neglected engine. If the engine is a filthy greasy mess, this is not a good sign about the rest of the car.
 
4. Look for unusual tire wear front and rear.
 
5. Check the air filter for oil inside. If there's a puddle of oil, the engine has "blow-by" and while that's not super bad, it does show engine wear. And of course it constantly clogs up air filters!
 
6. Make sure the car is not sagging in the rear end. If so, the hydro-pneumatic compensator is shot and requires repair.
 
7. The transmission is normally harsh-shifting, but make sure it shifts before the engine is screaming.
 
8. Check for moisture under all the carpeting.
 
Don't fall for outrageous claims about these cars. Your gas mileage will be 22-26 mpg. The car will not go "a million miles" without repair. Major repairs will be expensive.
 
Parts are generally still readily available. I would suggest you invest in the 3 volume factory manuals if you like DIY repairs. They will pay for themselves the first time. (about $300).
 
Always use a fuel conditioner every fill up.
#2179 of 2231
Re: Looking to buy a 1980 300CD [bawlmerc] by benzsilver
Jun 03, 2009 (10:00 am)
Reply

Replying to: bawlmerc (Jun 02, 2009 11:42 pm)

to bawlmewrc from benzsilver... well , the first part of your internet name may or may not come to fruition... i bough an '84 cd however it was turbo and sunroof. i fell in love with the car when i first saw it as i had bee looking for this specific car for ten years. the car lot took care of the immediate problem i noticed under the hood with engine running. the return lines on the fuel injectors were leaking very badly. they did replace them before i bought the car. i bought and drove home my benz (20miles) proudly. This was a as-is purchase , no warranty, you buy, its all yours. as i had previously owned a 75 230 sedan and had familiarity with the workings of a benz, i felt confident that i could handle situations as the came up. as i began to pull into garage my lady noticed leaking oil beneath the car. it was from a transmissiom return line from cooler in front of radiator which had a hole in it( from all the vibration of the engine) at one of the support connections. I repaired that with some imagination. next, although the tires all looked like they would give me many miles of driving pleasure with their good looking threads, afew days later, i was sailing along on the freeway, when i felt a thump, thump, thump. I came to a stop, inspected the now flat and treadless tire. i thought, What next? A set of new michelins! $$$$$ I' ve had the same car now for 11 years and to this day, still love this car. it's kind like being with a woman, you get use to their ups and downs. Good Luck and congratualations. If you by chance find one(benz) with a turbo i believe you will be much happier with it.
#2180 of 2231
'87 300D - door locks - fuel conditioner? by keithmcd
Jun 23, 2009 (12:14 pm)
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A) I have a completely siezed up door lock on driver's door. Can I swap passenger side door handle/lock with driver's side? (just flip it over) it appears to be visually and externally symetrical top to bottom. just wondering as new one is $900.00!!
B) what about fuel additives? should I use this every fillup? and what product do you recommend. (I'm at 506,000km -approx 350,000 miles) engine runs great and I do use a synthetic oil additive each change in summer time.
thks
#2181 of 2231
re: door locks-fuel conditioner by benzsilver
Jun 23, 2009 (7:32 pm)
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flipping it over may work, but how are you going to contend with the passenger side? Have you tried working graphite in the keyhole yet or even soaking it with mystery oil.? otherwise chek with your local 'pick your part' salvage yard and your chahces are good that you will find a serviceable part there, cheap and you will gain loads of experience and information as you remove the part. As for the additive, it has been recommended to me to get that at a truck stop. I believe it is in a red-labelled container.. or a white container; labelled diesel octane booster.good luck
#2182 of 2231
re: door locks-fuel conditioner [benzsilver] by keithmcd
Jun 24, 2009 (6:01 am)
Reply

Replying to: benzsilver (Jun 23, 2009 7:32 pm)

the handle and door latch works fine and opens the door ....just the lock tumbler is siezed up and cannot use the key to lock or unlock......so IF they are truly INTERCHANGABLE left to right, then I am all set. Just won't be able to unlock car from passenger side
The benefit of this vrs finding another door lock is that my igition key works fine with the passenger side lock, so by moving the passenger side lock to the driver's door, I will still be able to use my ignition key to lock and unlock my driver's side door.
thks

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