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Dodge Ram Owner Experiences

198 messages,  Last post on Jul 20, 2009 at 5:31 AM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Ram Pickup 1500, Dodge Ram Pickup 3500, Dodge Ram Pickup 2500, Truck

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#34 of 198 Re: Spray-in versus drop-in bedliners by dustyk Aug 22, 2003 (6:13 am)
If you think you might keep your truck for a while, consider both. The spray-in type will keep the box pretty much rust free, and the drop-in liner will prevent dents.   I like my drop-in, but vehicle vibration is probably rubbing paint off somewhere.   Best of luck, Dusty
#35 of 198 Spray-In liner by #noname Aug 22, 2003 (8:25 am)
I was referring to having the caps sprayed to protect them. Thence (wrap over) sorry should have explained it better. I use my truck more for a car than a truck, so not much heavy carrying. Has anyone used the K&N Performance Air Filters on their Ram 1500? Is it all that it's cracked up to be with increase horsepower and better gas mileage? Thanks for the reply Chet
#36 of 198 by KarenS HOST Jan 21, 2004 (11:32 am)
2004 Dodge Ram: First Drive
#37 of 198 149,000 miles and just warming up! by tfuder Jun 01, 2004 (10:56 pm)
Hi, all. My '94 1500 short bed has been a winner since the day I picked it up! Coming up on 150K miles, and couldn't be happier with it!   I hope you guys and gals with the (even) newer body styles (hydroformed, etc) will have as good results, because that's my NEXT truck purchase! Got my eye on an '04 or '05 quad cam short bed 4x4 w/ the Hemi, of course!   I just have to wait a while... still enjoying my paid-off workhorse (5.9L, SLT Laramie, custom woodgrain interior package, custom tow package). Gonna put a new coat of paint on the old boy and see if I can get another 50K miles or so.   I've never had a vehicle age so gracefully. Very few mechanical problems over the years, and nothing really major nor unexpected (I mean, it DOES have almost 150,000 miles on it!).   Good luck!
#38 of 198 tfuder..................... by dustyk Jun 02, 2004 (2:27 pm)
You mean you've never had a transmission problem? Golly, EVERYBODY knows those Dodge transmissions only last a year or so! (:>)   Best regards, Dusty Replies to this message: bigdodge (Feb 14, 2007 2:55 pm)
#39 of 198 Actually, I do have a concern... by tfuder Jun 02, 2004 (9:44 pm)
I actually bought the truck used several years ago, and it had a lot of mileage on it, then. Since I've owned it, I've not had to have it in the shop for an unscheduled repair but once, and that was right at 100K miles, so I had them do a complete workup on it, then.   However, the one issue I have is with the transmission. It's not a problem, per se, but it could indicate one. I noticed a TSB on it, so I'm going to try and check it out at the NHTSA site when I get a chance:   The truck (and my Intrepid, too, BTW) doesn't always want to shift from 2nd to 3rd. If I get the RPMs up to about 4K and let off the accelerator a tiny bit, it'll shift, and then go into OD with no problem.   This doesn't occur under a load (like, towing a boat), nor does it occur if I'm being a lead-foot. The temperature doesn't matter, nor how long I've been running the engine. I figured I'd check through the boards to see if anyone else experienced the same thing, and am doing that now.   But, other than that, I couldn't be happier. I'll be sad when this truck finally bites the dust, but I'll replace it with a newer Ram and keep going...   Todd Replies to this message: fulleton (Jun 08, 2005 7:49 am) shoup (Jun 17, 2005 11:14 am)
#40 of 198 Tfuder..................... by dustyk Jun 03, 2004 (1:36 pm)
You probably have a 46RE transmission. This symptom is most often associated with a misadjusted or binding throttle (modulator) cable or sticky throttle linkage. On high mileage units I've seen cables that were binding internally. Never use a lubricant of any type on the throttle linkage or the modulator cable. Try spraying the linkage with a good solvent (carburetor cleaner) including spraying some in the cable end itself.   An intermittent Throttle Position Sensor will also cause the same symptom.   Beyond that you could have low pump pressure from a clogged filter, a problem with the overdrive solenoid sticking. Beyond that it's a little more serious (overdrive clutches sticking, bleed valve or OD check valve sticking, worn OD clutches).   Best regards, Dusty Replies to this message: blue78669 (Apr 21, 2005 1:59 pm) viperman1500 (Feb 28, 2006 8:24 pm)
#41 of 198 15/30,000 mile maintenance by iowabigguy Jun 03, 2004 (7:07 pm)
I have a 2003 Ram 1500 2WD with the Hemi. My next oil change will be at 15,000 miles. I noticed that the rear differential requires service at this point and inquired at the dealer the charges for the 15K and 30K service. I was told in the $100 range for servicing the differential, $135 range to service the 5 speed auto trans and between $150 and $200 to change the spark plugs.   My how times have changed.   Differentials used to go 60,000 without service with no problems.   I figure I can change the differential lube with no problems. I'll leave the transmission to the dealer for service. I figure I can change the 16 spark plugs on the Hemi for closer to $15 to $20.   Has anyone changed the spark plugs on a 1500 series Ram? Are there any pointers you would like to share. Are there any special tools that might make things easier? The back 2 cylinders on the drivers side look like the problem area as the Brake booster seems to intrude into the working space.   I have seen where people have suggested using brake cleaner to clean the inside of the differential housing. Would you just spray clean the housing or everything? I would worry the cleaner might cause problems with the friction material in the limited slip housing. Here again any advice is welcome.   Is the transmission something that a person handy with tools could tackle at home. I know that on the older transmissions the bands were an adjustment item but everything I seem to see on the new transmission suggests no adjustments are made, that the transmission is self adjusting. Does the service just require dropping the pan and replacing a filter?   Thanks, Rick Replies to this message: blue78669 (Apr 20, 2005 5:27 pm)
#42 of 198 Thanks, Dusty! by tfuder Jun 03, 2004 (10:31 pm)
I'll get that cable looked at first (always go for the simplest solution first, right?), then work my way up, if that's not it.   Todd
#43 of 198 Iowa................. by dustyk Jun 04, 2004 (3:28 pm)
At 10,000 miles I flushed the housing and differential on my LSD Dakota using carburetor cleaner, mostly because I had a generous supply of it handy. Carburetor cleaner evaporates very quickly, one of the reasons I used it instead of brake cleaner. Just to be sure, after 15 minutes I hit the differential with compressed air to make sure it was dry inside.   Dropping the transmission pan on most auto trannies is more inconvenient than difficult since as soon as the pan is ready to drop you have 4-6 quarts of hot ATF ready to gush out. I usually remove all but one bolt each at three corners. Then lightly pry at the corner without a bolt to relieve the pan away from the transmission case. Once it starts to drip a steady stream I loosen the remaining three bolts to allow the pan to drop more.   Changing the filter on a Chrysler is very easy. There are two Torx screws that hold the filter on. There is a small gasket that must be used with the new filter. On the 545RFE there are two filters.   Once you get the pan off you'll want to clean it up. There is a magnet on the inside of the pan that will have a lot of gray muck (clutch material) and maybe a small quantity of metal bits. I've done this to around 500 transmissions of different types and I've always found metal bits on the magnets or in the pan and they've almost always been healthy transmissions, so don't let the presence of this material excite you. You might find a teaspoon to a tablespoon full depending on the mileage. Much more than that could indicate a problem.   Chryslers do not use a transmission pan gasket from the factory, although most of the non-factory replacement filters come with one. I do not use one since a gasket can eject an opportunity for a leak. I clean the transmission pan and housing flange with carburetor cleaner and apply Mopar black RTV to the pan and allow to set for 6-15 minutes depending on outside temperature.   And of course, your 2003 should only use ATF+4.   Best regards, Dusty

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